Then and now…Il Paretaio

Above Ponte a Serraglio going towards Colle is an area called Il Paretaio. It was one earliest areas settled in Bagni di Lucca.

It is a delightful walk up from the river, past the Hotel Bernabo, through the archway called dello Spiffero, past the church of San Martino built in 1292, past the decaying residence of the grandduke of Tuscany Leopoldo II of Lorena and up the hill.

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At the end of a tree lined road you come to a little square. Last century there was a cafe there.

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It was clearly popular.

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Now it is a private house.

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What a pity. It would be wonderful to walk up there on a summer evening for an aperitivo.

From Il Paretaio it is possible to keep heading uphill to Colle and further on to the park at the top of the hill.

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The tiny Cheisina Alpini was built in 1951 to honour the brave Alpini soldiers.

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There is also a track leading down from Il Paretaio towards La Villa. The pathway is called Via dell’Amore, Lovers’s Walk. The path is a bit overgrown now, but you can see that it must have been beautiful once. There are stone seats along the way and it is easy to imagine well dressed people strolling on a warm afternoon and enjoying the pretty surroundings.

In spring I will walk with my camera and show you the wild strawberries, mini crocuses and primulas growing beside the track.

Meet Guido from Nonsolovino

We have an excellent enoteca in La Villa. Nonsolovino sells a great selection of wine, both local and from other places in the world.

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Guido, the delightful owner, has a wonderful knowledge of the wines he carries and will help you choose the right one for you.

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There is lots to choose from.

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Nonsolovino also carries delicious olive oil, jam, honey and other locally produced goodies.

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Drop in and say hello to Guido and I’m sure you will leave with something delicious.

Don’t forget to go to Italy Magazine and take a look at the 2 posts about Bagni di Lucca that have made the shortlist in the Blog Awards.

Click here to go to the voting page. The posts are in the Best Single Living in Italy Post and Best Single Travel Post. It all helps to promote our lovely village.

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Villa Fiori needs some love

Villa Fiori in Ponte a Serraglio was originally called Villa Pieri. The villa takes its present name from Baron Fiori who purchased it in the second half of the 19th century. The appearence of the building has changed several times.

Here is a photo before the most recent change of appearence.

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The latest renovation was done by Paolinelli in 1916 – 1917 when it was owned by Jean Varraud, who ran the thermal baths at Bagni Caldi until 1968.

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When I first came to Bagni di Lucca some of the statues of swimmers still stood beside the little pool in the garden.

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The house now sits lonely and unloved beside the river. The little park near the house is cared for by the people of Borgo degli Artisti and there are regular events held there.

I particularly like the 4 towers in the park on the edge of the property.

Villa Fiori looks wonderful from above the village.

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It would be great if someone came along and breathed new life into Villa Fiori…any takers?

The villages of Bagni di Lucca

It is 2 years since I began Bella Bagni di Lucca. In that time I have tried to visit all the villages that make up Bagni di Lucca. They are scattered along the Lima River and in the mountains on either side.

Here are the villages I have visited so far, in alphabetical order. Click on the name to see more of the village.

Benabbio.

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Brandeglio.

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Bugnano.

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Cappella.

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Casabasciana.

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Casoli.

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Cocciglia.

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Colle.

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Fornoli.

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Granaiola.

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Gombereto

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Guzzano.

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La Villa.

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Limano.

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Livizzano.

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Longoio.

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Lucchio.

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Lugliano.

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Montefegatesi.

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Monti di Villa.

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Pallegio.

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Pieve di Monti di Villa.

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Ponte a Serraglio.

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Riolo.

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San Cassiano.

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San Gemignano

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Vetteglia.

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Vico Pancellorum.

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I hope to make my way to the villages I have missed over the next few months. I know I must see Crasciano, Mobiano, and a few others. Let me know of any more you want to see.

Bagni di Lucca Art Festival 2014

The very first Bagni di Lucca Art Festival was held with great success in 2013. Ponte a Serraglio came alive with art exhibitions, performances and parties throughout the summer.

Jaqueline and Jake and their team of volutneers are to be congratulated. With a miniscule budget and a lot of hard work they produced something wonderful.

Old shops in Ponte a Serrraglio were renovated and filled with exciting exhibitions and activities. People came out to enjoy opening celebrations and be part of the first festival. The little piazza was full of artists, performers and fun.

A particular favourite of mine was the installation in the river, called Fragile Community by Sandro Del Pistoia.

Plans are well underway for the 2014 event. This year Jaqueline and Jake are hoping to encourage even more participation in the form of sponsorship (please) and people with ideas and the courage and energy to bring their ideas into fruition.

If you can help in any way…if you think you have a great idea for the festival and have the time to help make it happen…please come forward and let the organisers know.

This year’s event will be shorter and more concentrated and will hopefully spread to other villages in Bagni di Lucca. Jaqueline and Jake would like to include more ideas and people in 2014.

The Bagni di Lucca Art Festival has the potential to be a significant art event which will be excellent for the future of the town. A thriving art community in this beautiful setting would bring more people and provide more jobs for those living here.

The festival needs your help to spread the word…talk to your friends and neighbours about it…write about it on your blog or Facebook page…it would be great if the whole community of Bagni di Lucca was involved…if not as participants or helpers then as spectators.

Please email Jaqueline at artfestivalbagnidilucca@gmail.com if you have any suggestions to make a huge success of the 2014 event.

Look at artfestivalbagnidilucca.org for more information on the festival.

Click here, here, here, here, hereand here to see the posts on Bella Bagni di Lucca about the 2013 Art Festival.

A winter walk through Lugliano

Lugliano is one of the beautiful high villages of Bagni di Lucca. I visited on a sunny winter day. Come with me for a walk through Lugliano.

The first thing you see as you arrive in Lugliano is the campanile of the church.

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Here is what the church looks like from the front.

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Beside the church is a very impressive sculpture.

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The road from here is fairly flat for a while before it begins to rise quite steeply. Just before the rise is a set of old laundry tubs. I wonder how long it is since they have been used.

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A little further on is a little chapel with a pretty ceiling.

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There are always cats enjoying whatever sun is available.

I love the bare trees in winter.

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Higher up in the village is another laundry area.

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There are some grapevines waiting patiently for spring.

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…a beautiful corner.

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…an old car packed and ready to go…complete with rain protection.

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From the top there is a great view back over the village.

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The views across the valley are amazing.

At the end of the village is a ridge with some wonderful old buildings and planted terraces.

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I hope you all visit Lugliano and take a leisurely walk to the top and back.

The village looks wonderful from below on the road out.

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Click here for  a different look at Lugliano in early summer.

Then and now…our house

Our house at Ponte a Serraglio has had a few changes since it was originally built. Here is a photo taken at the beginning of the 1900s.

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The front of the building was damaged in WWII. It was originally one house, but at some stage it was divided into 2 apartments with a shop below.

Take a look at a post I wrote a while ago, where my friend Tina talks about the Ponte a Serraglio she remembers from her youth. Click here to hear Tina’s story.

This is what our house looks like now.

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I am very pleased that the little balcony was added.

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I would love to know the story of the faces above our doors and windows.

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From our position on the bridge I can observe what happens in the piazza, and it is just a few steps to breakfast at Il Monaco for Annalisa’s great coffee and pastries…reason enough to live in Ponte a Serraglio. Click here to meet Annalisa.

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Beautiful Bagni di Lucca in 2013

I have spent a lot of time in Bagni di Lucca this year. It is wonderful to watch the changes in the seasons throughout the year.

I arrived in January to blue skies and the water high in the Lima river.

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Not long after Bagni di Lucca was covered with snow for a while. Even the lower villages were white for days.

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A very wet spring didn’t stop everything turning green.

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Heavy rain meant the river was often very high.

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We did have some sunny days in spring.

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Sunny enough for a walk beside the river.

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There was late snow in May.

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Summer brings flowers, bees, insects and delicious fruit.

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I was back in autumn for more changes.

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There was more heavy rain in October.

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…and pretty autumn colours and mists.

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December brought some cold mornings.

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…another great year in 2013. What will 2014 bring?

Picking olives

Olives grow all around Bagni di Lucca on terraces in the mountains.  Autumn is the time to pick olives. It would be difficult to find a more beautiful setting for an afternoon of olive picking.

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When we arrived the nets were being set beneath the trees.

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We were shown how to pull the olives from the branches…a bit like milking a cow.

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It is good fun picking olives…but I don’t have to do it for days on end. I may change my mind if I had to do it regularly, or I had to climb the trees to get at the top branches, or set the nets.

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It is much easier to pick olives while standing on the ground.

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…and look at the view.

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The best part of this is the delicious new olive oil. It is best when fresh. Look for the new season olive oil now in your favourite deli or market.