Just because

I was driving between villages when I looked up to see this view. I stopped the car to take some photos. The fragrance in the mountains is heavenly. There had been some rain and the sun had just come out, so everything was fresh and clean.

Take some time to drive through the mountain villages. This is from the San Cassiano road.

 

Make the most of your visit to Bagni di Lucca

I am often asked for ideas on what to see in Bagni di Lucca. This can be a little complicated because Bagni di Lucca is not one town, but a collection of villages scattered on either side of the Lima River in quite a large area. There are around 25 villages.

It also depends on how long is the intended stay and whether a car will be available.

For a one day trip from Lucca without a car I usually recommend taking the CTT from Piazza Verdi to Ponte a Serraglio, one of the villages along the Lima. Stop for a coffee at Il Monaco or Bar Italia in the little piazza.

Bar Italia

Il Monaco

Walk up the hill to Bagni Caldi to visit the Jean Veraud Terme, where people have been “taking the waters” for centuries. The road is a little steep, but you can stop along the way to admire the view.

Ponte a Serraglio

If you book ahead you could enjoy one of the treatments, a deep marble bath or the steam grotto, one of which was the personal steam grotto of the sister of Napoleon.

Bernabo Spa

Terme Jean Veraud

Keep walking up the hill towards Colle and take the path down the other side to La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca and the home of the Comune. In summer the beautiful pool is open, offering a swim with a wonderful view.

Bagni di Lucca pool

Have lunch at one of the many restaurants and perhaps take a walk along the river where Elizabeth and Robert Barrett Browning liked to walk when they visited Bagni di Lucca.

Lovers walk

From there it is possible to catch a bus back to Lucca. You could also walk along the river for about 2 kilometres to Fornoli, have an aperitivo at Cafe Catena, say hello to Paolo, and take the train back to Lucca.

Cafe Catene

For those staying longer it is important to know which village your accommodation is in. The 3 villages along the river, Fornoli, Ponte a Serraglio and La Villa, are easily reached by public transport. The others are not as easy to access. There are only a couple of buses a day from La Villa. You will need a car, or hire a taxi (which will need to be done in advance) or arrange transport with your landlord.

Without a car it can be difficult to access the outer villages. It is possible if you carefully coordinate the buses. Ask for help with a local or try the information office in La Villa.

If you have a car there are some truly stunning villages to visit. Each one is different and beautiful in its own way. Some have a restaurant or a bar, but many do not. I have visited all of the villages and if you go to the top of the page and click “Villages” a list will appear with a link to each one.

Be aware that the mountain roads are narrow and winding. There isn’t a lot of traffic and once you get used to driving on the roads you will be rewarded with spectacular scenery.

Mountain road

The villages are centuries old, some of them were settled by retiring Roman soldiers. Some have changed little and offer an authentic view of Italian life from times past.

Montefegatesi is the highest of the villages at 842 metres above sea level. Park on the edge of town and take the walk to the top to the statue of Dante for some of the best views over the mountains. Stop for a snack at the bar in the central piazza.

Montefegatesi

Vico Pancellorum has an excellent restaurant, Buca di Baldabo, which serves delicious home made pasta and local produce.

Buca di Baldabo

If you are up for it there is a steep walk to the top through cobblestone streets, rewarded with pretty views. Look for the ancient church at the bottom of the village.

There is a lovely walk from Pieve di Monte di Villa down to Ponte a Serraglio. Take the bus up, explore the village, have lunch at the Refugio Fiori and take a leisurely walk down through the beautiful forest. It is especially delightful in spring and autumn.

Luccio is the last village in Bagni di Lucca. In fact you leave the Lucca province briefly and enter Pistoia, before turning back to the road to Lucchio. The village clings like a limpet to the side of the mountain. It is said that hens in Lucchio lay square eggs to prevent them rolling down the slope.

Lucchio

Climb to the top to see the ruins of an ancient fort.

La Rocca Lucchio

Take a walk through the English cemetery in La Villa (take the walking bridge near the theatre) and look for some famous names. Some dedicated locals have been slowly restoring the graves to their original state.

English cemetery

If you are lucky you will be in town for one of the many festivals in the area. Check this blog, ask at the information centre or look for posters in the local bars to see what is on.

If you click “Eat” at the top of the page you will find a list of the restaurants in the area and a link to a post about each one.

Go back through the archives. I have been collecting stories about Bagni di Lucca for  5 years and there is quite a bit of information about the villages and what to see in the area.

If you have any specific questions I will try to answer them or direct you to someone who can help.

 

Santas out walking

I am sorry I wasn’t around to see the walk of the Santas around Bagni di Lucca on Sunday. It looked like great fun. Valerio Ceccarelli was there and took these photos. Here is the group in front of Villa Buonvisi before the walk.

Santa in BdL

…getting ready to go.

…and they are off.

Santas BdL

After a brisk walk the Santas arrived in Fornoli where the Festa delle Briciole was underway. See Francis Pettitt’s post here for more on this event.

Santas BdL

Santas BdL

SantasBdL

Santas BdL

The weather cooperated. It was fine and sunny, if a little cold. Well done Santas!

 

Montefegatesi in the autumn sun

If you take the road to Montefegatesi that goes past Monti di Villa and keep your eyes peeled you will spot a perfect place to stop to get excellent views of this gorgeous village. I went with friends in November and was rewarded with this lovely sight.

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

 

Montefegatesi

Mintefegatesi

Montefegatesi

Every time I visit Montefegatesi I am reminded of the tenacity of the early settlers to these mountain villages. They must have been made of stern stuff.

 

Living nativity

One of the most delightful events to happen in Bagni di Lucca is coming up. The Presepe Vivente will be held on 4th December. This year it will be in Pieve di Monti di Villa. The residents have been busy preparing the village. Paul Davies dropped in to take some photos.

Living nativity

Living nativity

Living nativity

img_4894

This is an event not to be missed.

Living natvity

Living nativity