A dark time in Bagni di Lucca

During WWII the Hotel Terme in Bagni Caldi was chosen by the Interior Minister of the Fascist R.S.I (Italian Social Republic) as the district concentration camp.

Between December 1943 and January 1944 more than 100 Jews were interned in the camp.

The larger group was composed of almost 60 foreign Jews, sent to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana during the second half of 1941 in “free internment”.

A small group of foreign Jews, who were already free in BdL, and about 30 Italian Jews arrested in other places in the district joined them.

On 23rd January 1944 the interned Jews were transported from Bagni di Lucca to Florence, then to Milan. On 30th January they were sent to Auschwitz.

Only 5 out of more than 100 Jews from Bagni di Lucca survived deportation.

The information came from researchgate.net.

Parking tip

It can be a bit difficult for new visitors to Italy to understand the parking signs.

In many places in Bagni di Lucca (and other places) you will see this sign.

Parking sign

It means you can park for free, but only for 2 hours, between the hours of 8.00am to 8.00pm. Outside these hours parking for longer periods is OK.

The little dial on the bottom left of the sign indicates that you need to set your timer.

In your car you should have a timer. Set this at the time you park your car and remember to come back before the time expires.

Your hire car should have one. If not, I have found them for a couple of euros at Tabacchi and some newsagents.

Parking timer

If you forget to set your timer that is no excuse. If the police come you will be issued with a fine.

 

Castiglione di Garfagnana

After I left Pieve Fosciana I drove a little further on to Castiglione di Garfagnana which sits at 545 metres above the Esarulo River, a tributary of the Serchio River.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

The town dates back to a Roman Castra, called Castrum Leonis (Lion’s Castle), built to oversee the valley that leads to the San Pelligrino Pass. The castle was built between1170 and 1227. It became Lucca’s most important garrison in the Serchio valley. In 1390 the “Rocca” or castle was extended and towers were built.

Some of the Rocca remains and you can walk through the narrow streets of the town to the top.

There is a road around the edge of the town outside the wall, offering excellent views of the castle and the surrounding countryside.Castiglione di Garfagnan

I entered the town through the Porta del Ponte Levatoio. It was mid afternoon and the town was deserted, leaving me to wander alone.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

I went up into the old castle for some gorgeous views over the town.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

Coming down from the top I came across the Church of San Pietro which was built in 723 by 2 Lombard brothers, but was rebuilt in the 12th century by Bishop Guido of Lucca.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

Castiglione di Garfagnana

I walked on through the pretty streets as it began to rain.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

Castiglione di Garfagnana

I will return when the town is a bit busier, I am sure there is more to discover.

 

 

Il Pozzo

Bagni di Lucca is on the edge of the Garfagnana. The area lies between the Apennine and Apuan Alps in the upper valley of the Serchio river. It is almost entirely mountainous and heavily wooded.

It is also dotted with pretty villages, which will take years to discover. I recently visited Pieve Fosciana. It is tiny, with a cluster of houses around the church of St John Battista, one of the most ancient in Garfagnana.

Come for a little walk through Pieve Fosciana…

There are lots of narrow cobble stone laneways and pretty gardens, the usual interesting doorways and building decorations.

Pieve Fosciana

Pieve Fosciana

I was impressed with this house in particular. The residents have gone to some trouble with the facade.

Pieve Fosciana

Pieve Fosciana

The main reason for my visit to Pieve Fosciana was to try restaurant Il Pozzo. I have heard it is one of the best in Garfagnana.

Il Pozzo Pieve Fosciana

They have an indoor dining area and a very big terrace. I was the first there for lunch, but it soon filled up, mostly with local workers. You know a restaurant is good when the locals arrive in number.

Il Pozzo Pieve Fosciana

Il Pozzo Pieve Fosciana

Il Pozzo Pieve FoscianaThe restaurant prides itself on using fresh, local ingredients served in a traditional way, with a slightly modern twist.

Il Pozzo Pieve Fosciana

I ordered the pasta with lobster.

Il Pozzo Pieve Fosciana

Followed by guinea fowl with truffles…they were both excellent.

Il Pozzo Pieve Fosciana

The service was very friendly and I could see that most of the other patrons were regulars. They also do a workmans’ lunch for a set price…I will try that next time.

If you can drag yourself away from the very good restaurants in Bagni di Lucca, try Il Pozzo, I’m sure you will like it.

Then and now…Bagno alla Villa

There is a small piazza above La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. Bagno alla Villa has one of the many spas that used to be a popular place to “take the waters”.

La Villa spa

La Villa spa

Bagno alla Villa

The spa is still there but is not operating.

Bagno alla Villa

Bagno alla Villa

The building has been restored and there is even a pool in the nearby property, Villa Ada.

Bagno alla Villa

Work has been done to restore several of the baths in Bagni di Lucca. Soon they will fall into disrepair again. It is a puzzle to me why the administration is not doing more to encourage someone to operate the spas and help bring people and employment to the area.

…any takers?

Bagni di Lucca in 2015

It has been an eventful year in Bagni di Lucca. It is interesting to look back.

Click the highlighted words to see the original post.

There was a tornado early in the year which caused lots of damage. Our lovely park in La Villa was devastated, with wonderful old trees wrecked by the wind.

Tornado damage in Bagni di Lucca

Many houses suffered with damaged roofs and other property damage. I hope we don’t see a weather event like that again.

Late winter is the time to plant pansies on the bridge at Ponte a Serraglio.

pansies on the bridge Pinte a Serraglio

You can see some green appearing around Lucchio in early spring.

Lucchio

Gorgeous yellow forsythia appears to brighten up the cool days.

Forsythia in Bagni di Lucca

Then wisteria shows its lovely lilac face.

Wisteria in Bagni di Lucca

The beautiful house where the Barrett Brownings stayed in La Villa was lovingly restored.

Barrett Browning house in Bagni di Lucca

Circolo dei Forestieri reopened and began serving delicious food…lucky us.

Circolo dei Forestieri

Soon on it was time to replace the pansies with geraniums. This year I had help in the form of Paul and Sheila.

planting geraniums on Ponte a Serraglio

In May there was much excitement, and some new roads, when the Giro d’Italia came through Bagni di Lucca.

Giro d'Italia in Bagni di Lucca

Not long after the magnificent Mille Miglia graced our streets.

Mille Miglia in. Bagni di Lucca

May was also the perfect time for a lunch at Rifugio Fiori in Pieve di Monte di Villa, followed by a walk down to Ponte a Serraglio along the forest walk.

a walk to Ponte a Serraglio

…and a stroll through Monti di Villa.

Monti di Villa

There was an art gallery showing.

Art Gallery Ponte a Serraglio

…and a religious procession.

Ponte a Serraglio

The annual crossbow competition took place in June.

Crossbows in Bagni di Lucca

Followed by Art in the Park at Villa Fiori.

Art in the park Ponte a Serraglio

A a swim in the cool waters of the Lima River is the thing to do on a hot summer day.

Swim in the Lima River

For those wanting a bit of adventure the exciting Canyon Park opened.

Canyon park adventures

Ponte a Serraglio looks pretty in the summer sun.

Ponte a Serraglio

Trattoria Borghesi reopened its doors to the delight of the locals and visitors alike.

Trattoria Borghesi

Giuliana opened her new shop in Fornoli.

Giuliana's new shop in Fornoli

Pinocchio visited La Villa with some fun for children.

Pinocchio festival La Villa

I discovered the monument to the soldiers shot by Nazis in WWII in the cemetery at Ponte a Serraglio.

Monument to murdered soldiers

Autumn began to appear with mists swirling through the mountains.

Autumn mists in Bagni di LuccaPaul Davies shared his beautiful photos of San Cassiano in autumn with us.

autumn in San Cassiano

…and 3 local photographers, including David Bonaventuri shared the Presepe Vivente in Monti di Villa.

Presepe Vivente

The year has flown by…there is always something wonderful to see and do in Bagni di Lucca. I look forward to much more in 2016.

Merry Christmas from Bagni di Lucca

I wish I was in Bagni di Lucca for Christmas. Perhaps it will snow…I love it when it snows.

I took these photos in winter 2013 when we had deep snow for a few days.

Snow at Ponte a Serraglio

snow in Bagni di Lucca

Perhaps it will happen again this winter.

Merry Christmas to all those who follow the blog. Thank you for coming along for the ride.

Thank you especially to the people who take the time to leave comments. There wouldn’t be much incentive to continue without the nice things you say. It is even more fun to meet followers when they visit Bagni di Lucca, and this is happening more and more.

One of the reasons I write Bella Bagni di Lucca is to share our beautiful collection of villages with the world. Quite a few people have visited our area because of the blog, which is great.

Please share the posts with people you know and maybe we can encourage a few more visitors in 2016…it is fast approaching.

Have a great Christmas!

 

 

La Lira

La Lira is a cheap and cheerful restaurant in La Villa. They do a great pizza, pasta, excellent seafood, and other delicious things.

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira prawns

It is a popular place for groups to meet for a fun night.

La Lira

La Lira

La Lira is beside the car park in La Villa…you can’t miss it.

Two Ponte ladies

There are two sculptures in the church yard at Ponte a Serraglio. They are in the garden beside the road, tucked quietly under trees.

Ponte sculpture

Ponte sculpture

I wonder if anyone notices them.

Don’t miss this

On Sunday there will be a great market in Fornoli, at Piazza Aldi Moro, starting at 11.00am.

Market Fornoli

Don’t miss it!