Early spring in Montefegatesi

It is officially spring, but the warm weather lately has meant that signs of spring appeared early this year. It was a beautiful day yesterday…perfect for a visit to Montefegatesi, one of my favourite villages. At 842 metres above sea level, it is the highest of Bagni di Lucca’s villages.

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A walk to the Dante monument at the top of the villages is always fun, and the views from the top are spectacular. Spring flowers are popping up all over town.

Montefegatesi cats were out enjoying the sunny day.

Vittorio Emanuele keeps an eye on things.

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I love the old faces and designs carved into the facades.

Dante cuts a fine figure in his lofty position.

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This is what he sees, you would think he might look a bit happier.

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…another lovely walk through Montefegatesi, and some more photos.

I want to go back when this enormous fig tree has fruit.

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Then and now…Il Paretaio

Above Ponte a Serraglio going towards Colle is an area called Il Paretaio. It was one earliest areas settled in Bagni di Lucca.

It is a delightful walk up from the river, past the Hotel Bernabo, through the archway called dello Spiffero, past the church of San Martino built in 1292, past the decaying residence of the grandduke of Tuscany Leopoldo II of Lorena and up the hill.

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At the end of a tree lined road you come to a little square. Last century there was a cafe there.

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It was clearly popular.

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Now it is a private house.

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What a pity. It would be wonderful to walk up there on a summer evening for an aperitivo.

From Il Paretaio it is possible to keep heading uphill to Colle and further on to the park at the top of the hill.

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The tiny Cheisina Alpini was built in 1951 to honour the brave Alpini soldiers.

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There is also a track leading down from Il Paretaio towards La Villa. The pathway is called Via dell’Amore, Lovers’s Walk. The path is a bit overgrown now, but you can see that it must have been beautiful once. There are stone seats along the way and it is easy to imagine well dressed people strolling on a warm afternoon and enjoying the pretty surroundings.

In spring I will walk with my camera and show you the wild strawberries, mini crocuses and primulas growing beside the track.

The villages of Bagni di Lucca

It is 2 years since I began Bella Bagni di Lucca. In that time I have tried to visit all the villages that make up Bagni di Lucca. They are scattered along the Lima River and in the mountains on either side.

Here are the villages I have visited so far, in alphabetical order. Click on the name to see more of the village.

Benabbio.

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Brandeglio.

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Bugnano.

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Cappella.

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Casabasciana.

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Casoli.

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Cocciglia.

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Colle.

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Fornoli.

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Granaiola.

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Gombereto

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Guzzano.

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La Villa.

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Limano.

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Livizzano.

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Longoio.

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Lucchio.

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Lugliano.

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Montefegatesi.

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Monti di Villa.

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Pallegio.

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Pieve di Monti di Villa.

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Ponte a Serraglio.

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Riolo.

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San Cassiano.

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San Gemignano

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Vetteglia.

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Vico Pancellorum.

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I hope to make my way to the villages I have missed over the next few months. I know I must see Crasciano, Mobiano, and a few others. Let me know of any more you want to see.

A winter walk through Lugliano

Lugliano is one of the beautiful high villages of Bagni di Lucca. I visited on a sunny winter day. Come with me for a walk through Lugliano.

The first thing you see as you arrive in Lugliano is the campanile of the church.

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Here is what the church looks like from the front.

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Beside the church is a very impressive sculpture.

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The road from here is fairly flat for a while before it begins to rise quite steeply. Just before the rise is a set of old laundry tubs. I wonder how long it is since they have been used.

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A little further on is a little chapel with a pretty ceiling.

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There are always cats enjoying whatever sun is available.

I love the bare trees in winter.

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Higher up in the village is another laundry area.

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There are some grapevines waiting patiently for spring.

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…a beautiful corner.

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…an old car packed and ready to go…complete with rain protection.

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From the top there is a great view back over the village.

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The views across the valley are amazing.

At the end of the village is a ridge with some wonderful old buildings and planted terraces.

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I hope you all visit Lugliano and take a leisurely walk to the top and back.

The village looks wonderful from below on the road out.

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Click here for  a different look at Lugliano in early summer.

Then and now…our house

Our house at Ponte a Serraglio has had a few changes since it was originally built. Here is a photo taken at the beginning of the 1900s.

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The front of the building was damaged in WWII. It was originally one house, but at some stage it was divided into 2 apartments with a shop below.

Take a look at a post I wrote a while ago, where my friend Tina talks about the Ponte a Serraglio she remembers from her youth. Click here to hear Tina’s story.

This is what our house looks like now.

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I am very pleased that the little balcony was added.

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I would love to know the story of the faces above our doors and windows.

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From our position on the bridge I can observe what happens in the piazza, and it is just a few steps to breakfast at Il Monaco for Annalisa’s great coffee and pastries…reason enough to live in Ponte a Serraglio. Click here to meet Annalisa.

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It’s cold out there!

Today we had our first real taste of winter. The temperature stayed around 6 degrees for most of the day and it rained…a perfect day for a drive in the mountains.

There has been snow on Prato Fiorito, making it look gorgeous.

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As we climbed higher towards Montefegatesi the snow was falling quite heavily.

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Montefegatesi looks great at any time, but a dusting of snow makes it look even better.

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We went for a short walk around the village. The temperature up there was zero.

There are storms all around us again tonight. Perhaps there will be even more snow tomorrow.

Click here and here for more on Montefegatesi.

Once upon a time…

It is wonderful to look at old photos of Bagni di Lucca. I finally bought a copy of the book of old Bagni di Lucca postcards.

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The book was put together by the Fondazione Michel de Montaigne. Most of the photos and illustrations are of Ponte a Serraglio and La Villa, but there are some of the other villages as well. Many of the scenes are recognisable and is fun to see the way things used to look.

This one is my favourite. Australia gets a mention.

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This is just a small selection of postcards from the book and I took photos of the postcards, which is why they might look a bit wonky. You really need to buy the book to see the postcards at their best.

The book is €25 and all proceeds go to the renovation of the English cemetery. I bought my copy at the library in the English church in La Villa.

I missed the launch of the book earlier this year. Francis was there and you can read all about it at From London to Longoio.

Guest post by Kerry

Kerry and Jim are from Western Australia. They decided to spend 6 months in Italy and chose Bagni di Lucca as their base. 3 months into their stay Kerry has generously written a post for Bella Bagni di Lucca to tell of their experiences in this gorgeous part of Italy.

Our 6 months in Bagni di Lucca…by Kerry.

We hit the jackpot when we chose the area of Bagni di Lucca to spend our six months “living the dream” retirement holiday. We arrived on 1st June and are staying until 30th November. I know it seems a long time but there is so much to do and see in the area that time is getting away from us.

Our apartment at Villa Isabella in Ponte a Serraglio is wonderful and the perfect place to base ourselves to not only relax and try to become a little bit “Italian” but also a great location to explore Tuscany from.

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The village is built along either side of the Lima River, making it a very tranquil place to spend time in.

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It is in easy walking distance to La Villa, the main village of  Bagni di Lucca,making it accessible to additional shops, cafes, bars and restaurants, although we have some very good choices here in the village.

We chose to come to Ponte a Serraglio after some lengthy communications with Debra, who I must say has been very generous with her assistance, time and knowledge of the Italian system for those wanting to stay for more than 3 months. Getting our Permesso di Soggiorno would have been very difficult without Debra.

About 25 villages make up the region of Bagni di Lucca. We have visited many of them now and each seems to have its own delightful character.

We have done many day trips, including to the Garfagnana, Chianti and the coastal villages of Forte dei Marmi and Sestri Levante and there is still so much to do and see.

There are many beautfiful cities to visit when you are here, the closest being the historic walled city of Lucca. It is only 25 kilometres away and is such a lovely city to spend time in. At every turn there is something to discover…beautiful cathedrals, nightly concerts of Puccini’s music (Lucca is his birth place), great shops, very nice food and, of course, gelaterias at every corner.

Florence and Pisa are both must sees by travellers visiting the area and are just over an hour away.

If you have a “bucket list” of places to visit in Italy we would definitely recommend adding Bagni di Lucca to it.

Follow our travels at Jim and Kerry Travel Diaries.

Thank you Kerry for sharing your Bagni di Lucca with us. Perhaps at the end of your stay you will write another post for Bella Bagni di Lucca.