As I walked beside the Lima River at Ponte a Serraglio I noticed a dark shadow in the water on the edge of the river.
On closer inspection I discovered a school of tiny fish, most likely trout.
I don’t suppose many of them will reach maturity, but it is encouraging to see them in the river.
At the Terme in Bagni Caldi I found a painting of Bagni Caldi. It is a view from Ponte a Serraglio.
The bridge in the painting isn’t in the same position as the current one, but several of the buildings still exist.
Here is a photo taken today from the spot where the artist must have stood.
The old hotel, Villa Pio X and Villa Talenti are visible, but San Giovanni baths are hidden by trees.
In the photo below you can see the restored Doccia Bassa below Villa Talenti.
I don’t know when the painting was done. Perhaps somebody out there knows. I might take another trip to Terme for more information.
If you look closely in the photo of the waterfall in the river at Ponte a Serraglio you will see a seagull. I watched this bird over several days and he always appeared in the same spot on a ledge in the middle of the overflow.
He is clearly standing there waiting for a fish to come hurtling through the water towards him. It must work because it is his regular place.
It seems odd to see seagulls in a mountain village, but the sea is quite close as the crow, or in this case, the seagull, flies.
Our ducks seem to be disappearing slowly, but the seagulls are always on the river.
Pieve di Controne is a small village in a beautiful rural setting in the Controneria area. It is 565 metres above sea level and 8 kilometres from the centre of Bagni di Lucca.
From the main road from La Villa towards San Cassiano, take the road through San Gemignano. From there you will drive through a pretty forest for one kilometre until you reach Pieve di Controne.
The parish church is dedicated to San Giovanni Battista. It was previously the church of Santo Stefano which was mentioned in a parchment in 884 AD. It was one of 28 churches founded by San Frediano.
In the 14th century there was a landslide which ruined the entrance, so another was built on the other side. Both facades are visible today, making the church very interesting indeed. It was not open the day I was there. I will return to see the stone font and the organ built in 1773 by Michelangelo Crudelli.
The bell tower was built in the 19th century and has the largest bells in the territory of Bagni di Lucca.
Few people live in Pieve di Controne today. The lucky ones who make it home have some of the best views in the area. There are lovely gardens and areas of cultivation. Come for a walk with me through the village.
I visited Pieve di Controne in late spring. I’m sure it would just as lovely in other seasons, especially autumn when the chestnut trees turn golden…I will be back.
Crasciana is 799 metres above sea level and is about 12 kilometres from La Villa. The winding road to the village takes you through lovely forests. The chestnut forests close to Crasciana are particularly beautiful.
The name Crasciana comes from the Roman colonist Carsius. The town has a long history, beginning around 800 AD. At one time it had a large population and was important strategically in the years of fighting in the area.
It is delightfully sleepy now, a peaceful and beautiful place to visit. We drove up in late spring and the road was lined with wildflowers.
There are some fine old houses and decorations, narrow streets, and a collection of green doors.
A lovely little piazza in the centre of town makes a great place to gather for a chat.
The gardens are well cared for…there are flowers and vegetables growing all over the village.
As with all of the mountain villages, the views are spectacular, even on a hazy day.
We really enjoyed our walk through Crasciana and spoke to a few of the lucky locals who call it home. One resident pointed out that there is a Crasciana Alta…a good reason for another visit.
To reach Crasciana, take the turn off from the SS12 towards Casabasciana and follow the signs to Crasciana.
Spring is the perfect time to wander through the lovely villages that make up Bagni di Lucca. Pieve di Monte di Villa is 476 metres above sea level and it offers great views over the surrounding mountains and valleys. Take the road from Ponte a Serraglio, through Granaiola and on to Pieve di Monte di Villa.
Pieve di Monti di Villa has about 100 hundred residents who obviously take great pride in their village. The houses and gardens are beautifully kept, making a walk through the tiny, winding lanes a delight…come for a walk with me, starting at the bar at the top of the town.
The views from the top are spectacular.
The little streets meander through the village. Some of them are quite steep.
The church of San Giovanni Battista was built in the 12th century, rebuilt in 1446 and remodelled between 1760 and 1766.
If you come to Bagni di Lucca, take the time to wander through the mountain villages…each one has something different to offer.
We have a couple of paper factories at Ponte a Serraglio. For the most part they go reasonably quietly about their business. I think there may be an occasional dump of waste into the river when nobody is watching, but the water seems clean.
What bothers me about one of them are the piles of recycled materials stacked up beside the river. They are plainly visible from the other side, and have been so in the 10 years I have been coming to Bagni di Lucca.
A few years ago a shed was built and I thought the piles were going to disappear in there…but no.
A hedge has been grown between the road and the storage area and the owner has a nice hedge in front of his house so that he doesn’t have to look at it.
He is clearly doing well as he is building an enormous extension to his house.
Perhaps he could spend a little on fixing the eyesore in his factory grounds.
Just in case you didn’t believe me when I told you Lucchio clings like a limpet to the side of a mountain, take a look at this view.
The photo was taken from the Popiglio side of Lucchio, on the road to Abetone. Lucchio looks great from any angle.
A short distance from Longoio is the tiny hamlet of Mobbiano. Just before the car park in Longoio is a road on the right heading up the hill. There is nowhere to park in Mobbiano unless you live there, so it is best to leave your car at the bottom of the hill and walk up.
I walked down from above Longoio past the little church that sits between the 2 villages.
The church wasn’t open, but I could peer inside.
This date is on the side of the building, along with a very cute angel.
A little further along the track Mobbiano comes into view.
Mobbiano is now a collection of houses. I don’t know whether there were ever shops or businesses here. Perhaps someone out there knows.
There are some lovely houses and it must be a peaceful place to live. All you can hear is birds. The gardens are lovely and the views are gorgeous. There are some seriously steep steps and tiny lanes between the levels of the village.
One of the houses, now derelict, must have belonged to the church. There is a cross on the old door. It needs a bit of work.
Take a walk through Mobbiano if you are in the area, especially now that spring is here.
Spring seemed like a perfect excuse to revisit Longoio. It is one of the tiny villages on the way to San Cassiano. Just after the Gombereto, on a bend in the road, you will see the sign for Longoio. Turn left and follow the narrow road to the car park. From there it is walking only.
The views from Longoio are wonderful. This is looking towards Guzzano.
The weather was a bit changeable, but the sky looked magnificent most of the time.
I went for a walk above and behind Longoio. Spring gardens are being prepared.
The path leds to the most amazing forest of old oak trees and dry stone walls. The ancient paths are lined with stones. I would love to know who built them. Clearly a lot of hard work was involved.
Mushrooms in various stages of growth were to be found. The one on the right looks as though it is wearing a black wig.
The view from the top of the hill is spectacular.
Monte di Villa, Pieve di Monte di Villa, Riolo and Granaiola are visible through the trees.
I wandered down to the delightful little chapel, Madonna della Serra.
It is very well maintained.
There is a curious little statue of Beethoven just inside the window. I wonder why.
On the left of the church is a track leading down to La Villa.
On the other side there are great views of Il Rondinaio with some snow still visible.
I walked back towards Longoio past an old fountain.
I came upon the wonderful sight of a shepherd with her goats. The beautiful animals looked as though they had just been washed and brushed and were out for a walk to show off their lovely coats.
On the other side of the path another rustic scene presented itself.
I passed some huge old stone wheels from a mill.
…and came to the old path to Longoio.
Right now is a perfect time to do this walk, wisteria is in bloom, fruit trees are in blossom, wildflowers are everywhere…what more could you want?
