I love to see Lucchio clinging to its mountain. Here it is in rain and mist in autumn.
When I return to Bagni di Lucca I will enjoy the stunning winter view. I am hoping for snow.
Cocciglia looks stunning from the SS Brennero, especially under a gorgeous blue sky.
Cocciglia is just one of the wonderful villages that make up Bagni di Lucca. Each one of the ancient villages has something special. Click here to see a list of the villages. There is a link to a post on each of the villages I have visited.
I am often asked for ideas on what to see in Bagni di Lucca. This can be a little complicated because Bagni di Lucca is not one town, but a collection of villages scattered on either side of the Lima River in quite a large area. There are around 25 villages.
It also depends on how long is the intended stay and whether a car will be available.
For a one day trip from Lucca without a car I usually recommend taking the CTT from Piazza Verdi to Ponte a Serraglio, one of the villages along the Lima. Stop for a coffee at Il Monaco or Bar Italia in the little piazza.
Walk up the hill to Bagni Caldi to visit the Jean Veraud Terme, where people have been “taking the waters” for centuries. The road is a little steep, but you can stop along the way to admire the view.
If you book ahead you could enjoy one of the treatments, a deep marble bath or the steam grotto, one of which was the personal steam grotto of the sister of Napoleon.
Keep walking up the hill towards Colle and take the path down the other side to La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca and the home of the Comune. In summer the beautiful pool is open, offering a swim with a wonderful view.
Have lunch at one of the many restaurants and perhaps take a walk along the river where Elizabeth and Robert Barrett Browning liked to walk when they visited Bagni di Lucca.
From there it is possible to catch a bus back to Lucca. You could also walk along the river for about 2 kilometres to Fornoli, have an aperitivo at Cafe Catena, say hello to Paolo, and take the train back to Lucca.
For those staying longer it is important to know which village your accommodation is in. The 3 villages along the river, Fornoli, Ponte a Serraglio and La Villa, are easily reached by public transport. The others are not as easy to access. There are only a couple of buses a day from La Villa. You will need a car, or hire a taxi (which will need to be done in advance) or arrange transport with your landlord.
Without a car it can be difficult to access the outer villages. It is possible if you carefully coordinate the buses. Ask for help with a local or try the information office in La Villa.
If you have a car there are some truly stunning villages to visit. Each one is different and beautiful in its own way. Some have a restaurant or a bar, but many do not. I have visited all of the villages and if you go to the top of the page and click “Villages” a list will appear with a link to each one.
Be aware that the mountain roads are narrow and winding. There isn’t a lot of traffic and once you get used to driving on the roads you will be rewarded with spectacular scenery.
The villages are centuries old, some of them were settled by retiring Roman soldiers. Some have changed little and offer an authentic view of Italian life from times past.
Montefegatesi is the highest of the villages at 842 metres above sea level. Park on the edge of town and take the walk to the top to the statue of Dante for some of the best views over the mountains. Stop for a snack at the bar in the central piazza.
Vico Pancellorum has an excellent restaurant, Buca di Baldabo, which serves delicious home made pasta and local produce.
If you are up for it there is a steep walk to the top through cobblestone streets, rewarded with pretty views. Look for the ancient church at the bottom of the village.
There is a lovely walk from Pieve di Monte di Villa down to Ponte a Serraglio. Take the bus up, explore the village, have lunch at the Refugio Fiori and take a leisurely walk down through the beautiful forest. It is especially delightful in spring and autumn.
Luccio is the last village in Bagni di Lucca. In fact you leave the Lucca province briefly and enter Pistoia, before turning back to the road to Lucchio. The village clings like a limpet to the side of the mountain. It is said that hens in Lucchio lay square eggs to prevent them rolling down the slope.
Climb to the top to see the ruins of an ancient fort.
Take a walk through the English cemetery in La Villa (take the walking bridge near the theatre) and look for some famous names. Some dedicated locals have been slowly restoring the graves to their original state.
If you are lucky you will be in town for one of the many festivals in the area. Check this blog, ask at the information centre or look for posters in the local bars to see what is on.
If you click “Eat” at the top of the page you will find a list of the restaurants in the area and a link to a post about each one.
Go back through the archives. I have been collecting stories about Bagni di Lucca for 5 years and there is quite a bit of information about the villages and what to see in the area.
If you have any specific questions I will try to answer them or direct you to someone who can help.
A couple of posts back I showed you some photos of Montefegatesi. A friend sent me a photo of a postcard of the village covered in snow. I don’t know when it was taken but Montefegatesi looks great with a white blanket.
I don’t think it will be a white Christmas in Montefegatesi this year. Merry Christmas anyway and have a wonderful 2017.
If you take the road to Montefegatesi that goes past Monti di Villa and keep your eyes peeled you will spot a perfect place to stop to get excellent views of this gorgeous village. I went with friends in November and was rewarded with this lovely sight.
Every time I visit Montefegatesi I am reminded of the tenacity of the early settlers to these mountain villages. They must have been made of stern stuff.
The living nativity in Pieve di Monti di Villa was a great success. Lots of people attended and got into the spirit of things. I was unable to attend as I am currently in Australia, but luckily my friends Teri and Charlotte were there and took some photos.
Valerio Ceccarelli also captured the event.
It is wonderful to see so many people take part and to see a crowd of people enjoying the event. These local festivals are a delightful part of life in the villages of Bagni di Lucca…long may they continue.