Osteria I Macelli

The translation of I Macelli is The Slaughterhouses. I am guessing that the site of this excellent restaurant was once an abattoir. The bright yellow building sits beside a little stream behind the main commercial area of Borgo a Mozzano, the village near the Ponte della Maddalena.

Osteria I Macelli

The restaurant is one of our favourite places to dine, with good reason. The food is very good, the setting pleasant and the service is friendly and efficient.

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To get there, drive down the one way street in the centre of Borgo a Mozzano and turn left at the sign for the restaurant.

I look forward to many delicious meals at I Macelli when I return to Bagni di Lucca very soon.

 

Then and now…the church at Ponte a Serraglio

The church at Ponte a Serraglio was built in 1544. It has been remodelled a few times.

Here it is in 1910.

Ponte a Serraglio church

…and 1922.

Church Ponte a Serraglio

…and after the last restoration.

imageHere it is now.

Ponte a Serraglio church

The interior is quite pretty.

The church is very well kept by a group of volunteers and is often adorned with flowers…poke your head in if you are nearby. It is a short walk from the bridge on the opposite side of the river from the piazza.

A dark time in Bagni di Lucca

During WWII the Hotel Terme in Bagni Caldi was chosen by the Interior Minister of the Fascist R.S.I (Italian Social Republic) as the district concentration camp.

Between December 1943 and January 1944 more than 100 Jews were interned in the camp.

The larger group was composed of almost 60 foreign Jews, sent to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana during the second half of 1941 in “free internment”.

A small group of foreign Jews, who were already free in BdL, and about 30 Italian Jews arrested in other places in the district joined them.

On 23rd January 1944 the interned Jews were transported from Bagni di Lucca to Florence, then to Milan. On 30th January they were sent to Auschwitz.

Only 5 out of more than 100 Jews from Bagni di Lucca survived deportation.

The information came from researchgate.net.

Parking tip

It can be a bit difficult for new visitors to Italy to understand the parking signs.

In many places in Bagni di Lucca (and other places) you will see this sign.

Parking sign

It means you can park for free, but only for 2 hours, between the hours of 8.00am to 8.00pm. Outside these hours parking for longer periods is OK.

The little dial on the bottom left of the sign indicates that you need to set your timer.

In your car you should have a timer. Set this at the time you park your car and remember to come back before the time expires.

Your hire car should have one. If not, I have found them for a couple of euros at Tabacchi and some newsagents.

Parking timer

If you forget to set your timer that is no excuse. If the police come you will be issued with a fine.

 

Castiglione di Garfagnana

After I left Pieve Fosciana I drove a little further on to Castiglione di Garfagnana which sits at 545 metres above the Esarulo River, a tributary of the Serchio River.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

The town dates back to a Roman Castra, called Castrum Leonis (Lion’s Castle), built to oversee the valley that leads to the San Pelligrino Pass. The castle was built between1170 and 1227. It became Lucca’s most important garrison in the Serchio valley. In 1390 the “Rocca” or castle was extended and towers were built.

Some of the Rocca remains and you can walk through the narrow streets of the town to the top.

There is a road around the edge of the town outside the wall, offering excellent views of the castle and the surrounding countryside.Castiglione di Garfagnan

I entered the town through the Porta del Ponte Levatoio. It was mid afternoon and the town was deserted, leaving me to wander alone.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

I went up into the old castle for some gorgeous views over the town.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

Coming down from the top I came across the Church of San Pietro which was built in 723 by 2 Lombard brothers, but was rebuilt in the 12th century by Bishop Guido of Lucca.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

Castiglione di Garfagnana

I walked on through the pretty streets as it began to rain.

Castiglione di Garfagnana

Castiglione di Garfagnana

I will return when the town is a bit busier, I am sure there is more to discover.

 

 

Then and now…Bagno alla Villa

There is a small piazza above La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. Bagno alla Villa has one of the many spas that used to be a popular place to “take the waters”.

La Villa spa

La Villa spa

Bagno alla Villa

The spa is still there but is not operating.

Bagno alla Villa

Bagno alla Villa

The building has been restored and there is even a pool in the nearby property, Villa Ada.

Bagno alla Villa

Work has been done to restore several of the baths in Bagni di Lucca. Soon they will fall into disrepair again. It is a puzzle to me why the administration is not doing more to encourage someone to operate the spas and help bring people and employment to the area.

…any takers?

Bagni di Lucca in 2015

It has been an eventful year in Bagni di Lucca. It is interesting to look back.

Click the highlighted words to see the original post.

There was a tornado early in the year which caused lots of damage. Our lovely park in La Villa was devastated, with wonderful old trees wrecked by the wind.

Tornado damage in Bagni di Lucca

Many houses suffered with damaged roofs and other property damage. I hope we don’t see a weather event like that again.

Late winter is the time to plant pansies on the bridge at Ponte a Serraglio.

pansies on the bridge Pinte a Serraglio

You can see some green appearing around Lucchio in early spring.

Lucchio

Gorgeous yellow forsythia appears to brighten up the cool days.

Forsythia in Bagni di Lucca

Then wisteria shows its lovely lilac face.

Wisteria in Bagni di Lucca

The beautiful house where the Barrett Brownings stayed in La Villa was lovingly restored.

Barrett Browning house in Bagni di Lucca

Circolo dei Forestieri reopened and began serving delicious food…lucky us.

Circolo dei Forestieri

Soon on it was time to replace the pansies with geraniums. This year I had help in the form of Paul and Sheila.

planting geraniums on Ponte a Serraglio

In May there was much excitement, and some new roads, when the Giro d’Italia came through Bagni di Lucca.

Giro d'Italia in Bagni di Lucca

Not long after the magnificent Mille Miglia graced our streets.

Mille Miglia in. Bagni di Lucca

May was also the perfect time for a lunch at Rifugio Fiori in Pieve di Monte di Villa, followed by a walk down to Ponte a Serraglio along the forest walk.

a walk to Ponte a Serraglio

…and a stroll through Monti di Villa.

Monti di Villa

There was an art gallery showing.

Art Gallery Ponte a Serraglio

…and a religious procession.

Ponte a Serraglio

The annual crossbow competition took place in June.

Crossbows in Bagni di Lucca

Followed by Art in the Park at Villa Fiori.

Art in the park Ponte a Serraglio

A a swim in the cool waters of the Lima River is the thing to do on a hot summer day.

Swim in the Lima River

For those wanting a bit of adventure the exciting Canyon Park opened.

Canyon park adventures

Ponte a Serraglio looks pretty in the summer sun.

Ponte a Serraglio

Trattoria Borghesi reopened its doors to the delight of the locals and visitors alike.

Trattoria Borghesi

Giuliana opened her new shop in Fornoli.

Giuliana's new shop in Fornoli

Pinocchio visited La Villa with some fun for children.

Pinocchio festival La Villa

I discovered the monument to the soldiers shot by Nazis in WWII in the cemetery at Ponte a Serraglio.

Monument to murdered soldiers

Autumn began to appear with mists swirling through the mountains.

Autumn mists in Bagni di LuccaPaul Davies shared his beautiful photos of San Cassiano in autumn with us.

autumn in San Cassiano

…and 3 local photographers, including David Bonaventuri shared the Presepe Vivente in Monti di Villa.

Presepe Vivente

The year has flown by…there is always something wonderful to see and do in Bagni di Lucca. I look forward to much more in 2016.

La Lira

La Lira is a cheap and cheerful restaurant in La Villa. They do a great pizza, pasta, excellent seafood, and other delicious things.

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira pizza

La Lira prawns

It is a popular place for groups to meet for a fun night.

La Lira

La Lira

La Lira is beside the car park in La Villa…you can’t miss it.