San Gemignano di Controne

Bagni di Lucca’s San Gemignano is not to be confused with the town with many towers, San Gimignano. Our sleepy hamlet is part of La Controneria, the largest and most populated area of Bagni di Lucca. La Controneria includes Guzzano, Gombereto, Mobbiano, Longoio, San Gemignano, Pieve di Controne, Vetteglia and San Cassiano.

San Gemignano is 532 metres above sea level and 7.5 kilometres along a narrow, winding road from La Villa. I visited on an overcast spring day…come for a walk through the village.

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The views are lovely, even on a dull day.

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There is a small shop at the top of the town and a narrow lane heads down hill from there. Old stone houses line the street.

There is a track to Vetteglia.

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…and a track down the other way to Gombereto.

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A bit further along the main street is the church dedicated to S Gemignano Vescovo who is said to have saved the Emperor of Constantinople’s daughter from the devil.

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The bell tower dates from the late 1800s. The church dates from 1581, but was rebuilt last century after an earthquake. It wasn’t open the day I was there…another visit is required.

Spring is showing its pretty face in the gardens and along the sides of the roads and tracks. There are wildflowers everywhere and some fruit trees are in blossom.

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I passed a peony plant covered with flowers the size of cabbages.

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Watch out for Gessy…although he doesn’t look all that fierce to me.

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At the end of the town is a chestnut forrest leading to Pieve di Controne…another day.

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Early spring in Montefegatesi

It is officially spring, but the warm weather lately has meant that signs of spring appeared early this year. It was a beautiful day yesterday…perfect for a visit to Montefegatesi, one of my favourite villages. At 842 metres above sea level, it is the highest of Bagni di Lucca’s villages.

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A walk to the Dante monument at the top of the villages is always fun, and the views from the top are spectacular. Spring flowers are popping up all over town.

Montefegatesi cats were out enjoying the sunny day.

Vittorio Emanuele keeps an eye on things.

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I love the old faces and designs carved into the facades.

Dante cuts a fine figure in his lofty position.

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This is what he sees, you would think he might look a bit happier.

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…another lovely walk through Montefegatesi, and some more photos.

I want to go back when this enormous fig tree has fruit.

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Magnificent magnolias

The magnolia trees are in flower right now in Bagni di Lucca. The season is almost over and green leaves are beginning to take the place of the blooms.

There is a huge tree in Fornoli.

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…another at Villa Fiori.

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…and more in the park in La Villa. You can see the flowers fading and the leaves forming here.

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My favourite one of all is the one behind the English church in La Villa.

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What a pity we have to wait until next year for it all to happen again.

Al Laghetto…the food is good

Al Laghetto sits beside the river on the way to Fabriche di Vallico. We were there not long after the disastrous storm which caused lots of damage in the area, so it the setting wasn’t as picturesque as usual.

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The restaurant was full for Sunday lunch when we arrived. Fortunately there was room for us. I love the rustic setting.

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You need to have a big appetite with you…take a look at the delicious food.

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Al Laghetto is a great place for Sunday lunch. The atmosphere is lively and a lot of fun.

Omaggio alla Donna

International Women’s Day is celebrated on 8th March. The focus of the celebrations ranges from general celebration of respect, appreciation and love towards women to a celebration for women’s economic, political and social achievements.

For the second year Bagni di Lucca will hold its Omaggio alla Donna at the Casino Municipale in Ponte a Serraglio.

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There will be exhibitions of painting, sculpture, photography and a display of things related to cooking and recipes from the past until today.

The opening event will be on 8th March at 6.00pm. There will be music and refreshments. A small donation of €5 is suggested.

The exhibition will be open from Saturday 8th until 16th March. On Saturdays and Sundays it will be open from 4.00pm until 8.00pm and Monday to Friday from 5.00pm until 8.00pm.

The exhibition will close on Sunday 16th March. On Saturday evening 15th March, there will be music by the Emma Morton Trio followed by a buffet.

I hope everybody will attend at least once.

Then and now…Il Paretaio

Above Ponte a Serraglio going towards Colle is an area called Il Paretaio. It was one earliest areas settled in Bagni di Lucca.

It is a delightful walk up from the river, past the Hotel Bernabo, through the archway called dello Spiffero, past the church of San Martino built in 1292, past the decaying residence of the grandduke of Tuscany Leopoldo II of Lorena and up the hill.

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At the end of a tree lined road you come to a little square. Last century there was a cafe there.

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It was clearly popular.

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Now it is a private house.

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What a pity. It would be wonderful to walk up there on a summer evening for an aperitivo.

From Il Paretaio it is possible to keep heading uphill to Colle and further on to the park at the top of the hill.

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The tiny Cheisina Alpini was built in 1951 to honour the brave Alpini soldiers.

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There is also a track leading down from Il Paretaio towards La Villa. The pathway is called Via dell’Amore, Lovers’s Walk. The path is a bit overgrown now, but you can see that it must have been beautiful once. There are stone seats along the way and it is easy to imagine well dressed people strolling on a warm afternoon and enjoying the pretty surroundings.

In spring I will walk with my camera and show you the wild strawberries, mini crocuses and primulas growing beside the track.

Meet Guido from Nonsolovino

We have an excellent enoteca in La Villa. Nonsolovino sells a great selection of wine, both local and from other places in the world.

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Guido, the delightful owner, has a wonderful knowledge of the wines he carries and will help you choose the right one for you.

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There is lots to choose from.

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Nonsolovino also carries delicious olive oil, jam, honey and other locally produced goodies.

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Drop in and say hello to Guido and I’m sure you will leave with something delicious.

Don’t forget to go to Italy Magazine and take a look at the 2 posts about Bagni di Lucca that have made the shortlist in the Blog Awards.

Click here to go to the voting page. The posts are in the Best Single Living in Italy Post and Best Single Travel Post. It all helps to promote our lovely village.

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Villa Fiori needs some love

Villa Fiori in Ponte a Serraglio was originally called Villa Pieri. The villa takes its present name from Baron Fiori who purchased it in the second half of the 19th century. The appearence of the building has changed several times.

Here is a photo before the most recent change of appearence.

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The latest renovation was done by Paolinelli in 1916 – 1917 when it was owned by Jean Varraud, who ran the thermal baths at Bagni Caldi until 1968.

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When I first came to Bagni di Lucca some of the statues of swimmers still stood beside the little pool in the garden.

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The house now sits lonely and unloved beside the river. The little park near the house is cared for by the people of Borgo degli Artisti and there are regular events held there.

I particularly like the 4 towers in the park on the edge of the property.

Villa Fiori looks wonderful from above the village.

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It would be great if someone came along and breathed new life into Villa Fiori…any takers?

A winter walk through Lugliano

Lugliano is one of the beautiful high villages of Bagni di Lucca. I visited on a sunny winter day. Come with me for a walk through Lugliano.

The first thing you see as you arrive in Lugliano is the campanile of the church.

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Here is what the church looks like from the front.

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Beside the church is a very impressive sculpture.

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The road from here is fairly flat for a while before it begins to rise quite steeply. Just before the rise is a set of old laundry tubs. I wonder how long it is since they have been used.

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A little further on is a little chapel with a pretty ceiling.

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There are always cats enjoying whatever sun is available.

I love the bare trees in winter.

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Higher up in the village is another laundry area.

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There are some grapevines waiting patiently for spring.

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…a beautiful corner.

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…an old car packed and ready to go…complete with rain protection.

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From the top there is a great view back over the village.

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The views across the valley are amazing.

At the end of the village is a ridge with some wonderful old buildings and planted terraces.

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I hope you all visit Lugliano and take a leisurely walk to the top and back.

The village looks wonderful from below on the road out.

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Click here for  a different look at Lugliano in early summer.