Salt and tobacco

I have seen these signs all over Italy.

Sali e Tabacchi

But I had not really looked at them carefully. I read a blog by Zoe Boccabella, and she recently wrote about Tabacchi, the shops in Italy where you can buy cigarettes, bus tickets, lottery tickets, top up your phone cards and pay bills.

What I hadn’t realised was that they were, for a long time, the only places you could buy salt when it was a monopoly of the state. This is why the word salt…Sali…is included in the sign.

We have a Tabacchi in Ponte a Serraglio, but it has a new sign where the word salt doesn’t appear…pity really. Maybe the traditional signs are on the way out.

Tabacchi

Voting for the Italy Magazine Blog Awards closes on 28th February. It appears that you can vote many times. I would love it if you would click here to vote for Bella Bagni di Lucca in the Best Single Art and Culture Post.

…and here to vote for the Best Single Travel Post.

The winners are announced on 3rd March. I will tell you the good, or bad news as soon as I know.

Then and Now…Ponte a Serraglio

The name Ponte a Serraglio (bridge of harem or menagerie. I wonder what went on here in the distant past) is mentioned as “ad Serrajule” in a document for the first time in 838.

I can’t show you what it looked like then, but there are photos from the early 1900s.

Ponte a Serraglio

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Some of the buildings remain and look similar. Bar Italia and Il Monaco now take the place of the 2 cafes with tables and provide the focus for the piazza.

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This is the view of the piazza from my balcony.

Ponte a Serraglio

Ponte a Serraglio

The road to the piazza in Ponte a Serraglio looks quite different. The beautiful old plane trees which lined the river have gone.

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Ponte a Serraglio

New trees have been planted and are doing well, but it will be a long time before they are as grand as the old ones.

This photo is taken from the other side of the river, but you can see how the new trees are growing beside the river.

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The views from the bridge probably haven’t changed all that much.

Ponte a Serraglio

Ponte a Serraglio

We have a new walking bridge across the river.

Ponte a Serraglio

The lovely old towers beside Villa Fiori have been cleaned and look great.

Ponte a Serraglio

I think Ponte a Serraglio is one of the prettiest villages in Bagni di Lucca, but, of course, I am biased.

Ponte a Serraglio

 

Ponte a SerraglioMost of the new photos were taken in summer. I will be back in Ponte a Serraglio soon to enjoy some lovely cold winter weather. I am hoping for snow.

Vizzata

Vizzata is one of the tiny hamlets that make up San Cassiano.

Vizzata

Rain clouds threatened to make their way across the mountain behind the village the afternoon I was there, but the rain held off long enough for me to have a look around.

Vizzata

I parked my car at the car park at the bottom of the village as I couldn’t see a road in. The little path into the centre was lined with pretty gardens and flower filled pots.

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata is very tiny. I don’t know how many people live there, but I suspect it is not many. There are some very interesting buildings, including a few renovators’ delights.

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

There were some very tired cats resting in quiet spots.

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata

Vizzata catVizzata catVizzata catAll of the mountain villages in Bagni di Lucca have beautiful views, and Vizzata is no exception.

Vizzata
Vizzata

Vizzata

Don’t miss Vizzata on your travels around Bagni di Lucca.

 

 

 

 

Bella Bagni di Lucca in 2014

I visited more of the many villages that make up Bagni di Lucca in 2014. I have now been to almost all of them and there is at least one post on each.

Here are some that I visited this year to add to my collection of photos of beautiful Bagni di Lucca. If you click on the name of the village a relevant post will appear.

I went for a winter walk in Lugliano.

 

Montefegatesi never disappoints.

 

San Gemignano di Controne has pretty gardens and winding lanes.

 

Nearby Gombereto looked beautiful in spring.

 

I went for a delightful walk outside Longoio  through an enchanted forest with ancient stone trails. I met some beautiful animals along the way.

 

Mobiano is a tiny hamlet near Longoio where I went for a summer wander.

 

 

Beautiful Crasciana beckoned from its position high above the Lima Valley.

 


A little further on, Crasciana Alta offers even higher views over the valley and surrounding mountains.

 

I drove past lofty Lucchio on my way back from a trip to Bologna. From the other side of the valley you can really see how it clings like a limpet to the side of the mountain.

Lucchio

Pieve di Controne is one of the prettiest of the villages. It sits peacefully on a plateau overlooking the beautiful villages beyond.

 

Cembroni is one of the hamlets that make up San Cassiano di Controne, once the most populated area of Bagni Di Lucca.

 

I look forward to continuing my visits to the villages in 2015. You can see all of those  I have been to so far by clicking…The Villages  

 

 

 

Abandoned

At the meeting point of the roads from Gombereto, Vetteglia, Montefegatesi and San Cassiano is an abandoned church…la Chiesa del Colle.

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

At some time it must have been a popular refuge for those travelling between the villages. Now it is crumbling and being taken over by the surrounding forest.

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

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Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

There is a path on the right of the church which must come from the villages below.

Chiesa del Colle

Behind the church is a pretty path leading through the trees to who knows where. I can see that it must have been a shady place to rest or perhaps to have a picnic.

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

If only this old chestnut tree could talk.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to see these old buildings restored?

Sad news at Ponte a Serraglio

The news Kiosk at Ponte a Serraglio is a very important part of our little community. Olga, who owns it, is a delight. She is always smiling and has been a great help to visitors to our village.

I sadly have to report that she is leaving soon. The kiosk is for sale and it will close next week. I really hope that Olga is able to sell the business. We need it at Ponte. Is there anyone out there who would like to buy the kiosk??

Here is Olga when she took over the business a couple of years ago.

News kiosk Ponte a Serraglio

This is last week. It is great to see Graziano as well. He has been very unwell and it is good to see him back on track.

News kiosk Ponte a Serraglio

Good luck Olga on the next stage of your life. We will miss you at Ponte.

Italy Magazine is once again holding their blogger awards for blogs about Italy. I would love it if you could nominate Bella Bagni di Lucca. The blog won the “Best single travel post” last year and lots of readers came to the blog as a result. It would be fun to do well again this year.

Click here to go to the nomination page. I will let you know if the blog makes the short list.

 

Cembroni

Cembroni is a little hamlet that is part of San Cassiano. Take the road from La Villa and follow the signs for San Cassiano. Just before the town you will see the sign for Cembroni on the left.

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The drive up along the tree lined roads is quite lovely.

Cembroni is tiny. There is a little tangle of narrow steeets, stone houses, leafy lanes and gardens.

On a quiet sunny day I met some lazy kitty cats.

Instead of the usual green doors, I found mostly brown ones. I did manage to track down a couple of green ones.

The last flowers and fruits of summer put on a fine show.

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I was most impressed by the collection of chimneys and roof tiles.

I would like to take this old railing home and install it on my balcony.

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Of course the views from Cembroni are excellent.

Just a handful of families live permanently now in the village. In summer the population swells when ex-residents return to enjoy the peace and quiet in the summer sun. If you are seeking a tranquil refuge from the world, perhaps you should head to Cembroni.

 

 

 

Crasciana Alta

I recently visited the lovely village of Crasciana. Some friendly locals told me that I must visit Crasciana Alta, the upper area of the village. I didn’t have time that day, but a few days ago I returned and took a walk through this beautiful villlage.

Crasciana Alta is a short drive ( about 3 kilometres) up hill from Crasciana. Take the road to the left just before you enter Crasciana.

You will come to a fork in the road.

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I would suggest parking nearby and taking the time to look through the pretty cemetery here. The entrance is through the gate beside the little chapel.

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Take the road to the right of the cross to enter Crasciana Alta. There is a little square right at the entrance to the village, with a pretty sculpture and view.

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The village is on the side of a mountain, the streets are steep and narrow. They branch off in all directions…take them all.

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There are lots of interesting details to be found.

The last of the summer flowers put on a display for me.

As usual the church has nabbed one of the best positions in town…high above the village.

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Behind the church is another small cemetery.

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There is also a lovely open area offering excellent views.

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20140915-032651.jpgThere is a pretty path down from the top.

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Look back towards the campanile.

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I came upon a group of gentlemen having a chat in the piazza who told me I should leave Ponte a Serraglio immediately and move to Crasciana Alta. Funnily enough, most of the people I meet in the mountain villages say the same thing. They say it is more tranquil, the air is better and life is good. I love the fact that they are proud of their little parts of the world and I can understand why they are so happy there.

On the way down the mountain I stopped for one more look at Crasciana Alta.

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If you visit Bagni di Lucca take the time to see the mountain villages…you won’t be sorry.

Little fish

As I walked beside the Lima River at Ponte a Serraglio I noticed a dark shadow in the water on the edge of the river.

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On closer inspection I discovered a school of tiny fish, most likely trout.

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I don’t suppose many of them will reach maturity, but it is encouraging to see them in the river.

Then and now…Bagni Caldi

At the Terme in Bagni Caldi I found a painting of Bagni Caldi. It is a view from Ponte a Serraglio.

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The bridge in the painting isn’t in the same position as the current one, but several of the buildings still exist.

Here is a photo taken today from the spot where the artist must have stood.

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The old hotel, Villa Pio X and Villa Talenti are visible, but San Giovanni baths are hidden by trees.

In the photo below you can see the restored Doccia Bassa below Villa Talenti.

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I don’t know when the painting was done. Perhaps somebody out there knows. I might take another trip to Terme for more information.