The name Ponte a Serraglio (bridge of harem or menagerie. I wonder what went on here in the distant past) is mentioned as “ad Serrajule” in a document for the first time in 838.
I can’t show you what it looked like then, but there are photos from the early 1900s.
Some of the buildings remain and look similar. Bar Italia and Il Monaco now take the place of the 2 cafes with tables and provide the focus for the piazza.
This is the view of the piazza from my balcony.
The road to the piazza in Ponte a Serraglio looks quite different. The beautiful old plane trees which lined the river have gone.
New trees have been planted and are doing well, but it will be a long time before they are as grand as the old ones.
This photo is taken from the other side of the river, but you can see how the new trees are growing beside the river.
The views from the bridge probably haven’t changed all that much.
We have a new walking bridge across the river.
The lovely old towers beside Villa Fiori have been cleaned and look great.
I think Ponte a Serraglio is one of the prettiest villages in Bagni di Lucca, but, of course, I am biased.
Most of the new photos were taken in summer. I will be back in Ponte a Serraglio soon to enjoy some lovely cold winter weather. I am hoping for snow.
It is a great place, but it’s name is a bit of a puzzle…
I have always wondered about the name. Heather’s comment below could be the explanation.
I think it means ‘locked up’ (‘serratura’ is a lock) which can apply to a sultan’s harem or caged animals or a fortified place. In the case of Ponte a Serraglio, Paola Moschini told me there was once a fort there and it was the ‘bridge at the fort’. The derivation is: Dal provenz. serralh, dal lat. tardo serraclum, der. di serare ‘chiudere’ | sec. XVII.
That could be the answer, thank you. A fortress sounds more likely than a harem.
Hi Heather, could you please translate that last bit for me? I sort of get it, but not sure. Thanks.
Hi Debra, Happy to supply the translation. It comes from the provençale word serralh, from late Latin serraclum, dervied from serare [note the single ‘r’] which means ‘to close’ | 17th century. I also checked Francis’s comment about ‘seraglio’ vs ‘serraglio’ and will add that to his below.
Your story and beautiful photos bring back such warm and happy memories for me
Ponte a Serraglio is a special place.
Seraglio with one “r” means women’s quarters and derives from Persian “Saray”. It’s also part of the title of Mozart’s singspiel on the subject of harems. Serraglio with two “r” means a locked place and refers to a geological narrow part of a valley which can be easily defended like ponte. CF also serra=pass and “serravalle”.
Thanks Francis, I feel much happier knowing the reason for the name.
My pleasure
According to my highly respected Italian-Italian dictionary by Devoto-Oli:
serraglio 2 [note the double ‘r’ in present-day Italian]
s.m. (pl. –gli)
1. Serie di costruzioni, in forma di padiglioni e di edifici, che costituivano la residenza di sovrani e potentati del mondo islamico.2. Termine usato in Occidente come equivalente di harem; fig.: avere un s., un gran numero di donne o di amanti.
Dal turco saray | sec. XVI
Trans: 1. A series of constructions, in the form of tents and buildings, which constituted the residence of sovereigns and potentates in the Islamic world. 2. Term used in the West as the equivalent of harem; figurative: to have a harem, a large number of women or lovers.
In the case of Ponte a Serraglio, it’s the second definition of the first meaning of serraglio in Devoto-Olio:
serraglio 1
s.m. (pl. –gli)
2. Riparo, sbarramento
Riparo means:
~ Nel linguaggio militare, opera di protezione o difesa per armi e tiratori.
Trans: In military terminology, a means of protection or defence for armies and marksmen.
I can’t find the geological meaning which Francis cites, but it makes sense.
Could go on forever, so I’ll just add the meaning of serraglio I like best and then quit. It’s under the first definition of serraglio, and refers to one of the definitions you gave, Debra: a group of caged ferocious animals.
fig., raccolta di persone rumorose e scomposte: quella classe è un vero s.
Trans: A group of noisy, unruly people: that class is a true serraglio.
Charming post Deb. Won’t it be lovely to watch those trees grow?
Rug up for that snow and think of us back here in the sticky heat and humidity!!!
Ciao
R
I first arrived in Ponte a Serraglio just after the new trees along the river were planted. They have grown a lot in the last 11 years. I am hoping to see them get a lot bigger.
I agree, Debra, that Ponte a Serraglio is the prettiest village I’ve seen with timelessness attached to its beauty. The locals also make Ponte a Serraglio a welcoming place. Your balcony commands beautiful views on either sides of the Lima. Lucky you!!
I love to stand on my balcony or at the window to watch the goings on in the piazza.
After this intriguing reference to the double meaning of serraglio, I was forced to do a little digging, only to find the answers already here thanks to both Francis and Heather. Serrare is the verb to lock so I guess that is the key!! I imagined it to be some sort of fort or cage but then never thought about it in the geographical sense ( thanks Francis). As seraglio with one ‘r’ simply means harem or Turkish women’s quarters in English also, I guess that may explain the initial confusion in meaning, that is, one ‘r’ versus two.
The area hasn’t changed much! Fabulous photos.
I have always been curious about the name. Luckily there are some smart people out there.
Debra! Love, love, love these old pictures….I always think about what life must have been like back then, just the clothes alone. Anyway…..trying to understand the name was very interesting too…..I love the input from others……but then again…..maybe some Italian man was dreaming of a harem when he named the bridge. ha, ha, ha….
I love the old photos too. It would have been fun to see it way back then.
I would love to have seen Ponte a Serraglio when it was bustling. It would have been fun to have been there in the days of Byron and Shelley.
That is was i have been thinking. Part of why i am learning to speak italian: i hope to hear some of the stories the old timers can tell while they are still around.
Talk to Tina, not that I think of her as an old timer, but she knows lots about the history of Ponte.
Not a lot has changed over the years, has it! Such a lovely reminder of our time in the village. Thanks Deb…and enjoy the cooler weather.
Many things look similare to 100 years ago. I think it is great.
Imagine how much lovelier the piazza would be if there were no more cars parked there and maybe some of the traffic was reduced. More tables and chairs outside, stone paving..
I agree. I would like to see more flowers and fewer cars.
Whenever we came down from our cottage in San Cassiano, we would either stop in Bagni di Lucca to have pastry & coffee or the bakery shown in one of your pictures in Ponte a Serraglio. I remember it very well! Ahh, great times!
I have breakfast every morning at Il Monaco when I am at Ponte, I love it.
However, some of my favorite joints are in Barga. Barga is probably my favorite village…. Pastry & Coffee is a wonderful ritual! Especially in Italy!
I like Barga too, but since my house is in Ponte a Serraglio and my blog is about Bagni Di Lucca I am going to declare our area to be my favourite. As I said, I am a little biased.
Great photos and an erudite discussion on the origins of the name.
Ponte looks as beautiful in the earlier photos as it does to day.
It’s great that there are people around who know these things.
Living history…. And now you’re a part. Long may that view from your balcony be yours Deb. You deserve it!