Swallows and a rainbow

It has been raining here in Bagni di Lucca for weeks. We are all sick of it. Late yesterday afternoon the rain stopped and a strange yellow light appeared over Ponte a Serraglio.

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Then a rainbow appeared.

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Then swallows began to swoop and dive along the river.

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There is a saying here…Una rondine non fa primavera…One swallow doesn’t make spring. ( a bit like “One swallow doesn’t make a summer”). There were lots of swallows, so I’m hoping it is a sign.

A bit later there was a double rainbow. The photo is not great, but if you squint you might see it.

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Rondine e un arcobaleno…I jumped in this morning and planted the pansies on the bridge. Let’s hope it doesn’t snow again.

A celebration of women

At the Casino in Ponte a Serraglio there is an art exhibition to celebrate women. As well as a chance to see the beautifully restored interior of this historic building, you can see and exhibition of painting, sculpture and photography.

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A large crowd gathered for the opening event.

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For me the most interesting part of the exhibition is a display of craft, beautiful pieces of handwork done mostly by women. Some of these talents are being lost in these busy times and it is wonderful to see such a lovingly collected items of sewing, weaving, spinning, embroidery and lace work.

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I can imagine busy hands creating these things for families and friends in any spare moment. Many of these skills are being lost forever. Thank you Gemma Fazzi and her team for showing us this lovely collection.

The exhibition continues until Friday 15th March and is open in the evenings from 5pm until 8pm. On Friday evening there will be a fashion parade followed by refreshments.

Benabbio

The road to Benabbio is one of the better mountain roads in the area. It is about 5 kilometres from La Villa to Benabbio, which sits about 480 metres above sea level. It is home to around 350 people.

I visited the town after a recent snow fall and found it looking very beautiful on a gorgeous winter day. Come for a walk around the village with me.

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You can always find a cat in a warm sunny place.

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Snow adds a gorgoeus touch to any view.

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While I was in Benabbio I had lunch at the excellent Il Cavallino Bianco. I have eaten here a few times, click here to see the post I wrote about my lunch on a previous visit.

I still have to try the other restaurant in Benabbio…Acquolina in Bocca…next time.

Granaiola

Lucky Granaiola sits in warm sunshine most of the time. It is 416 metres above sea level on top of a ridge. The 125 inhabitants get magnificent views of the valley below and the mountains around them.

This is my view of Granaiola from Ponte a Serraglio.

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This is their view of Ponte a Serraglio.

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The pretty village houses cling to the side of the hill. Come for a walk along the narrow streets.

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Granaiola has a birds’ eye view of Colle.

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…and across to Lugliano.

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…and to Monti di Villa.

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These photos were taken last year…time for another visit to Granaiola.

LOCAL INFORMATION

There is to be an exhibition at the Casino at Ponte a Serraglio… An Homage to Women….with 24 artists, including painters, sculptors and photographers.

The opening ceremony will be at 6.00pm Friday 8th March, followed by a harp recital by Anna-Livia and a buffet (€5 donation)

The exhibition will run from 8th – 15th March.
Saturday and Sunday….4.00 – 8.00pm
Monday – Friday….5.00 – 8.00pm

Monti di Villa

Monti di Villa is one of the higher villages in Bagni di Lucca at almost 600 metres above sea level. It is made up of 3 hamlets…Lugnano, the higest, Bugnano, the abandoned village, and Riolo. Today about 100 people live in Monti di Villa.

Lugnano, which is signposted Monti di Villa, sits along a ridge with mountains forming an impressive backdrop.

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A narrow path winds its way through the village. Come for a walk to see Monti di Villa.

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On one side of the village there are views across Bagni di Lucca, Lugliano is visible in the distance.

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There are some pretty houses in Monti di Villa.

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I love this staircase.

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I spotted some interesting decorations.

I found a wonderful collection of doorways.

As usual I made friends with a couple of village cats.

On the other side of Monti di Villa there are views across to Veteglia and the mountains.

There is a large church at the bottom of the village. It was closed or I would have taken you inside.

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There was a single yellow rose and a bush covered in brightly covered berries of some kind.

The village will look completely different in a few weeks when spring begins.

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A walk in Bagni di Lucca

This Saturday 23rd February there will be 2 guided walks around Bagni  di Lucca. The first will start in the piazza at Ponte a Serraglio at 10.00am and will be lead by Paolo Moschino. There will be a short walk to introduce the village and will include commentary on the art and history of our lovely Ponte a Serraglio.

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The second walk will begin in La Villa at the Parco Contessa Casalini at 15.30.

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Don’t worry, the snow has melted now, but I couldn’t resist posting more of my snow photos.
The commentary will be in Italian, but everyone is invited to join in.

Please call 3338893108 or 3407806967 for more details.

Mini Carnevale in Fornoli

Sunday was party day at Fornoli. The main street was closed to traffic and stalls selling all kinds of treats were set up early. The main event, however, began at about 2.30 near the Ponte delle Catene at Chifenti. This is where the crowds gathered to watch the start of the parade which was to cross the bridge and head into the town.

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The mayor was there.

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A man in a very nice green sash gave an enthusiastic speech.

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Some people in very colourful costumes were there.

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There was an excellent band.

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One band member had eyelashes to match her shirt.

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The band leader did a great job, and wore a particularly colourful scarf.

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But mostly the day was about children. Local schools took part in a dress up competition and the children looked very splendid indeed.

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Heroes and superheroes were well represented, so we all felt secure and protected.

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The very young were included as well.

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Not everyone was happy to be there.

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But that was the exception. It was a fun afternoon with everyone getting into the spirit of the occasion…even when it began to rain.

Snow on the mountain villages

Fornoli, Ponte a Serraglio and La Villa are the lowest of the villages of Bagni di Lucca at 120,130 and 150 metres above sea level. Montefegatesi is the highest, at almost 850 metres. The other villages are dotted around the mountains at various levels.

The recent snow melted fairly quickly in the low villages, but the roads to the upper villages were dangerous with snow and icy conditions for days. As soon as I thought it was safe I headed into the hills to see what was left of the snow.

Colle is the hill village directly in front of my apartment and it looked particularly lovely with its snowy cover as I set off.

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The roads to the higher villlages are even more narrow than usual with their edges lined with snow.

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Vico Pancellorum was enjoying a sunny day after the snow.

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Looking the other way was a tiny village nestled in the shadow of a mountain.

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Vico Pancellorum’s olive trees seem to have survived the snow.

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The narrow streets haven’t had enough sun yet to melt the snow.

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Goats hoping for some warmer weather.

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There were some stunning views from the top of Vico Pancellorum.

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On the way out of Vico Pancellorum I spotted some very colourful washing drying in the sun.

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The ski lift looks as though it could be useful today.

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I drove to San Cassiano next for some different views.

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On the way back to Ponte a Serraglio I could see lovely Lugliano in the distance.

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With a bit of luck I will get to some of the other villages while there is stil some snow lying around.

It’s snowing in Bagni di Lucca

It started snowing early this morning and it has continued all day. This doesn’t happen very often in Bagni di Lucca, so I went out walking around Ponte a Serraglio and up to Bagni Caldi to make the most of it. Come for a walk up the hill and back with me.

Some of these photos look black and white, but they aren’t. The snow became heavier as the day went on and while I was out walking a fog rolled in and the visibility became very poor.

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The roads have been treacherous. The snow plough has had trouble keeping the road clear.

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You don’t often see snow on palm trees.

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There is not much use for these now.

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This was as far up the hill as I went. I heard several trees cracking and falling under the weight of the snow, so I thought it was time to head home.

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Le Torre disappeared completely from view seconds after this was taken.

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It has been a beautiful day in Bagni di Lucca. Click here to see photos I took earlier in the day at Ponte a Serraglio.

If the roads become safe I will head to some of the other villages to see the snow there.

Serious soup

Last year I went with Heather Jarman of Sapori-e-Saperi to the finals of the Disfida della Zuppa…the local Slow Food soup competition. The soup is a speciality of the area, zuppa all frantoiana, a type of minestrone, based on 4 ingredients…beans, cavolo nero, olive oil and toasted bread.

Each family would have their own recipe handed down through generations, each with its own extras, which should be of the season. Last year there was much discussion about the addition of zucchini, which doesn’t grow in winter. A couple of soups were criticised for adding zucchini…I told you this was serious.

This year I attended the first heat of the competition in Pieve di Compito, close to Lucca. There were 6 soups vying to go forward to the next stage.

The room was still being prepared when we arrived.

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The numbered bowls were stacked and ready.

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People began to gather.

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Tasting and voting instructions were given.

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…and the first soup arrived. Heather and I really liked this one, even though is was a little salty. The aroma was excellent, the texture good and it had a good balance of beans, vegetables and bread.

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The next one was also good, with quite a different taste. It is amazing how different the soups can be using similar ingredients.

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The third one tasted very good, but there was a little too much bread.

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The bowls began to stack up.

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Number 4 was good, we liked the whole beans.

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The fifth one looked quite different, but the taste was good.

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The final soup arrived and we had to make some serious decisions.

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The first soup was my favourite.

Last year the discussion became heated about zucchini. This year it was tomatoes. It was agreed that tomatoes are not in season in winter, so perhaps should not be in the soup, but finally most people agreed that they could be there because it would be usual to bottle tomatoes in the summer and most households would have a good supply of passata to be used over the winter months.

People often ask me why the food is so good in Italy. I think the story above goes a long way to explaining why. Food is a serious business here. Everybody has a strong opinion, tradition is respected and people demand good food. They expect to eat well at home and in restaurants and will have their say if what they are served doesn’t come up to expectations…and rightly so.

Heather and I left before the judging was completed, so I don’t know which soup was chosen as the winner. I will let you know if I find out.

Click here to see the exciting finals from last year.