Honey and more

The area around Bagni di Lucca and the nearby Garfagnana produces delicious honey. In spring and summer the mountains are filled with flowering trees bees love, especially acacia, tiglio and chestnut.

My friend Heather Jarman took me to visit delightful Francesca, who keeps bees on her agriturismo, Al Benefizio near Barga, to see the busy little bees in action. Chestnut trees were coming into blossom and the bees were out collecting nectar.

Each beehive has between 40,000 and 60,000 bees working to produce honey. Once they have filled their own hives with honey to feed the community the beekeeper puts more levels on top and the industrious creatures keep working to fill those too.

Al Benefizio

Al Benefizio

The nectar is loaded into trays of wax honeycomb. Each of these trays can be filled within a day. There are scout bees who fly out and find suitable flowers. They fly in a 3 kilometre radius of their hives and like to take nectar from the most numerous blossoms. When the nectar from these blossoms is exhausted they will move onto another type. This is how it is possible to have honey from a single blossom. The beekeeper needs to watch to see when the blossoms they want honey from are at their most prolific.

Al Benefizio

Al Benefizio

Al Benefizio

Once the filled trays are collected they are put into a machine which scrapes the wax off.

Al Benefizio

They then go to a centrifuge which spins the honey out of the frames. Francesca uses no heat to process her honey. It is allowed to settle slowly to allow sediment and wax to go to the top or bottom of the honey.

Al Benefizio

Wax from the honeycomb is melted down and collected in blocks. Francesca then sends these books to be melted and turned into new bases for the bees to work from to build new cells for the honey. The bees could do this themselves, but having a good start allows them more time to do other things. There is one group of bees whose only job is to flutter their wings in front of the wax cells to evaporate the water from the nectar until it is the right consistency for honey…they are a very organised community.

Al Benefizio

Al Benefizio

Al Benefizio

Francesca took us to one of her gorgeous old wooden tables under the cover of strawberry grape vines to sample her delicious honey. She drizzled acacia, tiglio and chestnut honey on pecorino cheese for us to try.

Al Benefizio

La Benifizio

La Benefizio

The acacia honey is light and almost clear. The chestnut honey is much darker and has a much stronger flavour. Tiglio, or linden, is somewhere in between.

Francesca’s bees work hard on her gorgeous property which overlooks Barga…what a spectacular view. Guests also get to enjoy the view and the lovely gardens which surround the cottages. I would love to stay here and pick the cherries from the trees. Soon there will be plums and figs ripe for the picking. There are also olive trees and a prolific vegetable garden.

La Benifizio

There are 3 apartments to rent at Al Benefizio.  La Stalla has 2 bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen and a wonderful private terrace with a spectacular view.

Al Benifizio

Al Benifizio

Il Fienile has a bedroom, bathroom, living area, kitchen and balcony.

Al Benefizio

Il Governo is a double room with bathroom. It was not available for me to see, but I’m sure it is just as lovely as the others.

Guests are free to wander in the terraced gardens, swim in the pool, meet Jubi the donkey, say hello to the chickens and tiny wildlife and delight in this gorgeous part of Tuscany.

Al Benifizio

Al Benifizio

Al Benifizio

Heather and Francesca work together to introduce visitors to a part of Tuscany they might not otherwise see. I visited Al Benefizio in late spring, a wonderful time to see the area. I think spring and autumn are the best seasons to see our beautiful area, you avoid the crowds and the countryside is at its very best.

Al Benefizio is a great place for weddings…and wedding photos. I think the old bed filled with hay is brilliant…these photos came from Francesca.

 

 

 

Al Benefizio…www.albenefizio.it

Heather Jarman…www.sapori-e-saperi.com

 

 

 

 

A Benabbio sunset

After a lovely evening with friends in Benabbio I was delighted to see a beautiful sunset. I walked from the top of Benabbio to the lower car park. It was quite late, 9.45pm, and I caught the last rays of sunlight disappearing below the mountains.

Benabbio

Benabbio

Benabbio

Benabbio

It is easy to see why people live in these gorgeous mountain villages. The views are incredible at any time of the day and in every season.

Great food at Cappuccetto Rosso

Thanks to some friends we discovered a wonderful restaurant at nearby Piano Di Giovano called Cappuccetto Rosso.

Cappuccetto Rosso

The restaurant is stylish and pretty and the menu very interesting. The food is a little more expensive than most in the area, but it is excellent and well worth the extra money.

Cappuccetto Rosso

For antipasti we shared a plate of delicious prosciutto and a selection of very well chosen cheeses with tasty accompaniments.

Cappuccetto Rosso

Cappuccetto Rosso

Cappuccetto Rosso

Cappuccetto Rosso

We had already chosen dessert, so missed primi piatti, which are charmingly called Early Earth and Early Sea. Here are our scrumptious main courses. Soft lighting doesn’t always make for the best photos, a couple are a bit fuzzy.

Cappuccetto Rosso

Cappuccetto Rosso

Cappuccetto Rosso

Cappuccetto Rosso

For dolce we chose chocolate mousse with pear, and mint parfait with chocolate sauce…both excellent.

Cappuccetto Rosso

 

Cappuccetto Rosso

Cappuccetto Rosso means Red Riding Hood…we will be back often.

Via di Salita 4/6 (Behind Quadrifoglio)

Localita Piano di Gioviano (Borgo a Mozzano)

(39) 338 2426295

Cappuccetto Rosso

 

A walk in Monti di Villa

Spring is the perfect time to visit the villages of Bagni di Lucca. I had only been to Monti di Villa once, so I thought it was time to go back. This is Monti di Villa from Granaiola…right in the middle of the photo.

Monti di Villa

 

Monti di Villa

Come for a walk with me through Monti di Villa. There is a car park at the base of the village and an easy path up.

Monti di Villa

There are some pretty gardens to admire.

Monti di Villa

Monti di Villa

Monti di Villa

Spring flowers were in full bloom.

Monti di Villa I loved the garden decorations.

The old doors always fascinate me.

Monti di Villa

There are some amazing views from Monti di Villa, even on a hazy day.

Monti di Villa

Monti di Villa

Monti di Villa

Monte di Villa

On a warm spring afternoon it is easy to fall asleep after lunch.

Monti di Villa

I walked along the ridge which is the highest part of Monti di Villa. From here you can look back across the village.

Monti di Villa

Monti di Villa

I met a friendly local who showed me a lovely green path.

Monti di Villa

She also pointed me in the direction of a lower path back to the car park. It was lined with wild flowers and covered by an oak canopy…what a gorgeous place to walk.

Monti di Villa

 

…and another place to admire the view.

Monti di Villa

Monti di Villa…one of the lovely villages that make up Bagni di Lucca.

Lunch and a spring walk from Rifugio Fiori

A while ago guest poster Belinda took us on a walk from Ponte a Serraglio to Pieve di Monti di Villa to lunch at Rifugio Fiori.

 

Rifugio Fiori I’m not much interested in walking up steep hills, so I decided to do it in reverse. Three of us got a lift up to Pieve di Monti di Villa to the lunch spot. It was a gorgeous day, so we happily sat outside.

Rifugio Fiori

…just as well, it was crowded inside.

Rifugio Fiori

We ordered the mixed grill…very good….and the torta della Nonna.

We were advised to take the gentle track down to Ponte a Serraglio.  We headed off up the road a bit and took the road down to the church. It is always good to walk through Pieve di Monti di Villa.

Beside the church we found the track towards Ponte a Serraglio.

walk to Ponte a Serraglio

It was a bit overgrown, but not too bad.

walk to Ponte a Serraglio

In many places there was a rock path lined with wild flowers and gorgeous spring flowering trees.

We passed some old gates. There must have been a sizeable house here once.

walk to Ponte a Serraglio

We also passed some dry stone walls, no doubt part of the same property.

walk to Ponte a Serraglio

We walked under a gorgeous oak tree.

walk to Ponte a Serraglio

We passed a stream and a little waterfall.

Pieve to Ponte

Some of the time we walked on the road because the path was too overgrown, but that was good too.

Pieve too Ponte

Pieve to Ponte

Soon we came to the crossroad where the road goes to Riolo.

Pieve to Ponte

 

We passed the overgrown church.

Pieve to Ponte

We wandered down past the old chairlift. I would love to see this operating.

Pieve to Ponte

Lots of people were enjoying themselves at Villagio Globale.

Pieve to Ponte

Just before we reached the river we passed a wall of wildflowers.

Pieve to Ponte

Pieve to Ponte

Finally we arrived at Ponte. If you want to do the uphill walk, look for this sign opposite the walking bridge.

Pieve to Ponte

Pieve to Ponte

If you are looking for a great walk, this could be the one for you. You walk under the cover of the forest most of the way, so it is not too hot. The downhill walk is easy and the views are gorgeous.

Click here to see the winter walk.

A tornado in Bagni di Lucca

If you read my other blog, Bagni di Lucca and Beyond, you will know that we had a tornado in Bagni di Lucca on Wednesday night.  Many residents would have spent a terrifying night listening to the fierce wind tearing up trees and tiles from their roofs.

La Villa was very badly hit and the beautiful little park has been devasted. Trees that are hundreds of years old have been uprooted and snapped off.Damage at La Villa

Damage at La Villa

The clean up was quick and efficient in La Villa. The broken tiles have all been cleaned up from the streets and the fallen trees are being cut into smaller pieces for removal.

Damage at La Villa

Damage at La Villa

I went for a walk through La Villa and was pleased to see that things were back in order. There is some roof damage in several buildings, including Circolo dei Forestieri, the pharmacy and Villa Ada.

Circolo dei Forestieri

The pharmacy roof at La Villa

Villa Ada damage

Villa Ada damage

Lots of trees are down in the garden on Villa Ada, but the roof damage doesn’t look as bad from the back of the building.

Villa Ada garden

Villa Ada damage

The trees have been removed from the church in Corsena.

Church in Corsena

A crane is at work in the nearby cemetery to help with the clean up.

damage at the cemetery

Many roads to the outlying villages are cut by fallen trees. There is going to be lots of work for woodcutters for quite some time cleaning up the mess.

fallen trees

Fallen trees

It was a beautiful day here today, the sun was shining and it almost felt like a spring day. It is hard to believe that this strange weather event happened at all.

It has come to my attention that the villages of Gombereto, Veteglia, San Gemignano, San Cassiano and Pieve di Controne have been badly damaged. Francis has been to the area and has some photos and news of the damage.

Click here and here to see his posts.

Abandoned

At the meeting point of the roads from Gombereto, Vetteglia, Montefegatesi and San Cassiano is an abandoned church…la Chiesa del Colle.

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

At some time it must have been a popular refuge for those travelling between the villages. Now it is crumbling and being taken over by the surrounding forest.

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

image

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

There is a path on the right of the church which must come from the villages below.

Chiesa del Colle

Behind the church is a pretty path leading through the trees to who knows where. I can see that it must have been a shady place to rest or perhaps to have a picnic.

Chiesa del Colle

Chiesa del Colle

If only this old chestnut tree could talk.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to see these old buildings restored?

Sad news at Ponte a Serraglio

The news Kiosk at Ponte a Serraglio is a very important part of our little community. Olga, who owns it, is a delight. She is always smiling and has been a great help to visitors to our village.

I sadly have to report that she is leaving soon. The kiosk is for sale and it will close next week. I really hope that Olga is able to sell the business. We need it at Ponte. Is there anyone out there who would like to buy the kiosk??

Here is Olga when she took over the business a couple of years ago.

News kiosk Ponte a Serraglio

This is last week. It is great to see Graziano as well. He has been very unwell and it is good to see him back on track.

News kiosk Ponte a Serraglio

Good luck Olga on the next stage of your life. We will miss you at Ponte.

Italy Magazine is once again holding their blogger awards for blogs about Italy. I would love it if you could nominate Bella Bagni di Lucca. The blog won the “Best single travel post” last year and lots of readers came to the blog as a result. It would be fun to do well again this year.

Click here to go to the nomination page. I will let you know if the blog makes the short list.

 

Cascio and chestnuts

October and November are great months for autumn festivals in the mountains. I attended several this year and one of my favourites was the one in Cascio.

Cascio is a tiny village in the Garfagnana. It is of early medieval origin situated on the ancient road linking Modena and Lucca. These days it is a sleepy village basking in the Tuscan sun. It has some wonderful ancient building and they are well preserved.

Cascio chestnut festival

Hundreds of people descended on the village on the day of the chestnut festival. The little square was full of stalls selling all sorts of interesting things.

People gathered on the grassy field waiting for the chestnuts to be roasted and the food prepared.

Below the village there was another area for food preparation…and eating. The cooks were kept very busy making the pancakes and putting the plates together.

Above the village beside the castle sweets were served. I stopped on the way to admire the view.

Cascio chestnut festival

The old castle looks wonderful. I will go back one day to explore further.

Cascio chestnut festival

Cascio chestnut festival

As I was about to leave a group of musicians and dancers put on a fine show and I stayed to watch.


The Cascio festival is one of the best I have attended. It was a perfect sunny autumn day and everyone had a great time.Look out for it next year. I’m sure you will love it.

Cascio chestnut festival

Cascio chestnut festival