Flowers everywhere

On All Souls’ Day, November 2, Italians take flowers to cemeteries to honour their deceased relatives. Florists do a roaring trade and cemeteries come alive with people.

Far from being a gloomy event, it is quite festive. People dress up and stroll around looking at the graves. Cemeteries look beautiful with colourful flowers decorating the tombs. Graves are generally well kept anyway, but this is special.

All souls day

All Souls' day

All Souls' Day

 

All Souls' Day

All Souls' Day

All Souls's Day

All Souls' Day

This is a lovely tradition. How nice to think that someone cared enough to keep your grave clean and tidy and bring flowers sometimes.

Scacciaguai

I love this word. It means good luck charm, or chase / sweep your troubles away. This is a scacciaguai.

Scacciaguai

It is on the wall just around the corner from the entrance to a restaurant named Scacciaguai in Barga.

The restaurant is run by 2 brothers and I think it is very good. I have been a few times and have had delicious food and good service each time.

Scacciaguai

Scacciaguai restaurant

Scacciaguai

Now for the food.

ScacciaguaiScacciaguaiScaggiaguaiScacciaguaiScacciaguaiScacciaguaiThey very kindly offer instructions on how to sweep away your troubles. Make the horns with your index finger and your little finger and poke the eyes of the Scacciaguai.

Scacciaguai

I should be OK now.

Scaccuaguai,

Scacciaguai

Via di Mezzo 25,

Barga. (39) 0583 711368

www.scacciaguai.it

For more on scacciaguai read My Kitchen Witch.

Eat at Villa Aurora

Villa Aurora is in the most beautiful setting. Villa Aurora There is an amazing view of Prato Fiorito and Pieve di Controne. Prato Fiorito from Aurora Pieve di Controne from Aurora On a fine sunny day it is great to sit outside on the spacious terrace. Villa Aurora Villa Aurora The owner proudly served us some of the most delicious prosciutto I have ever eaten. Villa Aurora Their pasta is great. Villa Aurora Villa Aurora My friend Carla had the saltimbocca. Villa Aurora Agostino and I enjoyed the perfectly cooked trout. Villa Aurora I believe the pizzas are good here too…next time. Villa Aurora…Fabbriche di Casabasciana. From the SS12, follow the signs towards Casabasciana. The restaurant is not far along the road. Phone…(39) 0583 85600 Villa Aurora

Festa della Zucca

Autumn is a time for festivals in our area. Many villages celebrate the season with festivals honouring the local produce. I recently attended the Festa della Zucca (pumpkin festival) in Piegaia, not far from Bagni di Lucca.

Festa della ZuccaThere were lots of people there enjoying the many stalls selling interesting things to do with pumpkins and other delights.

Festa della zucca

There were pumpkins in all shapes and sizes.

Delicious food was available. We chose penne with pumpkin and creme brûlée with pumpkin.

Festa della zucca

Festa della zucca

Festa della zucca

It is great to see these festival well attended by people of all ages. Everyone joins in and has a great time. I went with Heather from Sapori e Saperi. She knows all the best places to go.

 

 

Cembroni

Cembroni is a little hamlet that is part of San Cassiano. Take the road from La Villa and follow the signs for San Cassiano. Just before the town you will see the sign for Cembroni on the left.

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The drive up along the tree lined roads is quite lovely.

Cembroni is tiny. There is a little tangle of narrow steeets, stone houses, leafy lanes and gardens.

On a quiet sunny day I met some lazy kitty cats.

Instead of the usual green doors, I found mostly brown ones. I did manage to track down a couple of green ones.

The last flowers and fruits of summer put on a fine show.

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I was most impressed by the collection of chimneys and roof tiles.

I would like to take this old railing home and install it on my balcony.

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Of course the views from Cembroni are excellent.

Just a handful of families live permanently now in the village. In summer the population swells when ex-residents return to enjoy the peace and quiet in the summer sun. If you are seeking a tranquil refuge from the world, perhaps you should head to Cembroni.

 

 

 

Finally, a clean up

The Ponte della Maddalena is the most recognisable structure in our area. It is a 900 year old treasure.

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It is possible to see in this photo some of the build up of debris on the buttresses of the  bridge. We have had lots of rain over the last 12 months and the river has been carrying lots of rubbish along with it and quite a bit has gathered around the base of the bridge.

Finally, the clean up has begun. The river has been diverted and the tree branches and other bits and pieces are being removed.

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It is good to see the Ponte della Maddalena being looked after. I never tire of looking at this amazing bridge every time I pass. I often stop and walk across and enjoy the view from the top as well. Let’s hope it is here for another 900 years.

Francis has written about the clean up too on his blog. Click here to see his report.

Crazy weather

Summer in Bagni di Lucca has been unusually cool and wet. The crazy weather continues. One day it is warm and sunny.

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The river is calm and low.

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Then we get driving rain and storms and the river turns into a raging torrent, much more likely in winter.

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There was a huge hail storm in Florence the other day that left the streets looking as though they were covered with snow…crazy stuff.

What will autumn and winter bring?

Crasciana Alta

I recently visited the lovely village of Crasciana. Some friendly locals told me that I must visit Crasciana Alta, the upper area of the village. I didn’t have time that day, but a few days ago I returned and took a walk through this beautiful villlage.

Crasciana Alta is a short drive ( about 3 kilometres) up hill from Crasciana. Take the road to the left just before you enter Crasciana.

You will come to a fork in the road.

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I would suggest parking nearby and taking the time to look through the pretty cemetery here. The entrance is through the gate beside the little chapel.

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Take the road to the right of the cross to enter Crasciana Alta. There is a little square right at the entrance to the village, with a pretty sculpture and view.

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The village is on the side of a mountain, the streets are steep and narrow. They branch off in all directions…take them all.

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There are lots of interesting details to be found.

The last of the summer flowers put on a display for me.

As usual the church has nabbed one of the best positions in town…high above the village.

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Behind the church is another small cemetery.

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There is also a lovely open area offering excellent views.

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20140915-032651.jpgThere is a pretty path down from the top.

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Look back towards the campanile.

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I came upon a group of gentlemen having a chat in the piazza who told me I should leave Ponte a Serraglio immediately and move to Crasciana Alta. Funnily enough, most of the people I meet in the mountain villages say the same thing. They say it is more tranquil, the air is better and life is good. I love the fact that they are proud of their little parts of the world and I can understand why they are so happy there.

On the way down the mountain I stopped for one more look at Crasciana Alta.

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If you visit Bagni di Lucca take the time to see the mountain villages…you won’t be sorry.

Mario Lena, a special Ponte person

Mario Lena, poet at Ponte a Serraglio and remarkable previous Mayor of Bagni di Lucca, recently celebrated entering his 90th year. Maura Bertolozzi and Agostino Rieter organised a marble plaque to be hand carved in Pietrasanta with one of Mario’s poems. It was installed at Il Monaco, where Mario likes to have his breakfast in the morning. Our current Mayor, Dr Massimo Betti, officiated the ceremony to unveil the plaque.

Mario Lena was a respected scientist and teacher as well as a very popular mayor for 10 years from 1960.

Friends of poetry and Mario gathered for the unveiling of the poem.

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Take the time to read the poem next time you are at Il Monaco and say hello if you see him. He is a very friendly and delightful man.

A few days later a second plaque was unveiled at the edge of Agostino’s property, beside a seat, where visitors are invited to rest a while, enjoy the poem and the magnificent view of Mario’s favourite place, Bagni di Lucca.

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Writers from Great Britain, Ireland, France, Germany, Holland and Italy have been drawn to Bagni di Lucca for centuries…Byron, Shelley, the Barrett Brownings and many more have spent time in the beautiful villages, no doubt taking inspiration from their surroundings, just like Mario Lena.

Agostino has had the brilliant idea to establish a “Poetry Path” and connect 17 sites around Ponte a Serraglio, Bagni Caldi, Il Paretaio, Bagno alla Villa and La Villa where famous writers lived or visited. People will be invited to walk to the sites, admire the view and read about the writers.

A proposal has been put to the Foundatione Michel de Montaigne and if approval is given, anyone interested in helping to get the idea off the ground will be invited to get involved.

We are hoping the Mayor and the Council of the Comune will give full cooperation. I will keep you up to date with developments.

I think something that encourages locals and visitors alike to walk around the area and appreciate the spectacular scenery and learn something about our literary residents and visitors is a wonderful idea.

Little fish

As I walked beside the Lima River at Ponte a Serraglio I noticed a dark shadow in the water on the edge of the river.

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On closer inspection I discovered a school of tiny fish, most likely trout.

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I don’t suppose many of them will reach maturity, but it is encouraging to see them in the river.