My favourite building in Ponte a Serraglio

Posted on October 23, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

We almost bought an apartment in this gorgeous building designed by Lucchese architect Giuseppe Pardini. The building was constructed in 1838 and once housed the prestigious Hotel de Russie.

The building has a colourful history. In 1904 – 1905 English writer Louise de la Ramee, better known as Ouida, stayed in the hotel. She is now buried in the English cemetery nearby. Click here to see more on the cemetery.

During WWII the building was occupied by the German army. There is a plaque on the wall beside the street to commemorate the 13 patriots who were imprisoned inside.

There are now 6 apartments here. I particularly love the balcony at the front of the building. The middle one was almost ours.

I would love to see the building renovated …….. but not too much.

Porcini mushrooms

Posted on October 18, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

It is porcini season in Bagni di Lucca. They are in all the restaurants, proudly displayed in baskets.

If you drive along mountain roads you see cars parked and people scouring the forests for these delicious mushrooms. They grow well in chestnut and pine forests.

Porcini means piglet, perhaps because they look a bit like plump little piglets. They can grow to about 30 centimetres across and can weigh up to a kilo.

I have eaten risotto with porcini, pasta with porcini, fried porcini, grilled porcini and best of all fresh, raw porcini with a squeeze of lemon and black pepper. They have to be just picked for this to work well.

Autumn is here, bringing these delectable delights to eat.

This was what greeted me at my car this morning.

Circolo dei Forestieri

Posted on October 14, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Circolo dei Forestieri doesn’t mean “circle of forest workers”. It was the Foreigners’ Club years ago. The building was rebuilt in 1924 over an existing 18th century structure. It was the meeting place of visitors to Bagni di Lucca and used for gambling until 1936.

It is now a restaurant. There is a lovely big dining room inside and in summer there is outdoor dining in front of the restaurant and a delightful terrace at the back, with pretty views over the river.

Although it looks quite grand the food is very reasonably priced……and very good. I photographed my own delicious food and the lovely people at the next table kindly let me take theirs as well.

That was my caprese salad and the bread that came with it was hot from the oven.

A lemon sorbet arrived between courses.

Say hello to Giovanni and Sabina…..and have a great meal.

www.circolodeiforestieri.it

PS. Unfortunately Circolo dei Forestieri has closed. Is there anyone out there who would like to run a restaurant in Bagni di Lucca??? It would be great to see someone take it over and bring it to life again.

Many years ago the Circolo dei Forestieri was surrounded by huge trees. Fortunately the new ones are growing.

The chestnut festival at Ponte a Serraglio

Posted on October 9, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The annual chestnut festival hosted by the Gruppo Alpini and the Borgo Artisti was held on Sunday in the lovely park beside Villa Fiori. It was a gorgeous autumn day and the chestnuts were roasting.

In times of famine and in the lean years after WWII chestnuts formed an important part of the local diet……they deserve to be celebrated.

As well as roasted chestnuts, necci (chestnut pancakes) were served with ricotta, sausage or nutella. The pancakes are cooked between 2 flat pans over a flame.

There was also pasta fritta….pasta dough deep fried and salted…..too delicious for words.

There was a small collection of chestnut memorabilia, including a wonderful old photo of men dehusking chestnuts.

And the stomping shoes.

There was a tiny chestnut cottage made by one of the local artists.

There was art in the park.

And some very concentrated pumpkin painting.

It was a fun day……don’t miss these local events.

Vetteglia

Posted on October 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Vetteglia is a tiny hamlet in the San Cassiano area of Bagni di Lucca. 37 people live here. I think they were all having an afternoon nap the day I visited the village. I enjoyed a lovely walk in the afternoon sun.

The village is dominated the imposing Pratofiorito, where you can still see the Ravi del Pratofiorito (landslides) which destroyed the hamlets of Celle and Cerro.

There are great views across to neighbouring San Cassiano.

And to the villages on the other side of the valley.

The village is a jumble of well kept houses, pretty gardens and small fruit and vegetable plots.

The last of the peaches and pears for the season.

I almost missed this grey cat in his grey corner.

There are a few renovator’s delights to be seen.

Some perfectly stacked wood piles waiting for winter.

A perfect garden shed.

A pretty little church.

And it is only 40 minutes walk to San Gemignano.

Another day…. For me it was back to the top of the village for a last look across the tiny piazza at the top and back to my car.

Festa della Castagna…….in Villa Fiori Park

Posted on October 2, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The annual Chestnut Festival…..Festa della Castagna, will be held this Sunday 7th October in the park beside Villa Fiori at Ponte a Serraglio.

The local Alpini group will be providing roasted chestnuts and delicious necci. Last year I recall they served some excellent pasta fritta as well.

There will be several stands selling arts and crafts and there will be painting and drawing for children, provided by the Borgo degli Artisti.

Festivities will begin at 10.00am. Don’t miss what is sure to be a fun day.

9 handsome men on Ponte a Serraglio

Posted on September 28, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

This group of handsome fellows gathered for a photograph on the bridge at Ponte a Serraglio 50 years ago.

In the back row from the left……Roberto Calistri, Aldo Berni, Umberto Lenzini, Liliano Saivetti and Benito

In the front….Vito Lorenzelli, Sandro Fazzi, Renzo Moschino and Amelio Bianchi.

Some are no longer with us, some have moved away…..but I found 2 handsome chaps still here.

On the left is Vito Lorenzelli and to his right is Roberto Calistri.

Vito happily showed me the original photo and gave me the names. I will need to be reminded of Benito’s cognome. Vito is now back in Scotland, where he lives for most of the year. I see Roberto regularly at the Ponte with his delightful granddaughter Agnese, my favourite little Ponte person.

A weekend of fun and Pinocchio in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on September 24, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca, hosted a charming festival on the weekend. The fun activities were inspired by the stories of Pinocchio, which were written in the nearby village of Collodi.

There were stalls selling Pinocchio articles, arts and crafts, food (of course), games and activities for children and street performers.

Patrizia’s fruit shop with a few extra goodies.

Ilario from Del Sonno cooks up a storm.

What I loved the most was seeing children joining in a having fun doing simple things…… not a computer game in sight.

It was a good excuse for the adults to dress up and have some fun too.

Even a princess needs to eat.

If you are really lucky, you will happen upon one of these delightful local festivals when you are in Italy….bring a costume just in case.

A Ponte a Serraglio sunset

Posted on September 21, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The weather has been beautiful for the last few days. We had a bit of rain, which we needed and the days are becoming cooler. The sunset this evening was spectacular.