Serious soup

Posted on February 10, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Last year I went with Heather Jarman of Sapori-e-Saperi to the finals of the Disfida della Zuppa…the local Slow Food soup competition. The soup is a speciality of the area, zuppa all frantoiana, a type of minestrone, based on 4 ingredients…beans, cavolo nero, olive oil and toasted bread.

Each family would have their own recipe handed down through generations, each with its own extras, which should be of the season. Last year there was much discussion about the addition of zucchini, which doesn’t grow in winter. A couple of soups were criticised for adding zucchini…I told you this was serious.

This year I attended the first heat of the competition in Pieve di Compito, close to Lucca. There were 6 soups vying to go forward to the next stage.

The room was still being prepared when we arrived.

The numbered bowls were stacked and ready.

People began to gather.

Tasting and voting instructions were given.

…and the first soup arrived. Heather and I really liked this one, even though is was a little salty. The aroma was excellent, the texture good and it had a good balance of beans, vegetables and bread.

The next one was also good, with quite a different taste. It is amazing how different the soups can be using similar ingredients.

The third one tasted very good, but there was a little too much bread.

The bowls began to stack up.

Number 4 was good, we liked the whole beans.

The fifth one looked quite different, but the taste was good.

The final soup arrived and we had to make some serious decisions.

The first soup was my favourite.

Last year the discussion became heated about zucchini. This year it was tomatoes. It was agreed that tomatoes are not in season in winter, so perhaps should not be in the soup, but finally most people agreed that they could be there because it would be usual to bottle tomatoes in the summer and most households would have a good supply of passata to be used over the winter months.

People often ask me why the food is so good in Italy. I think the story above goes a long way to explaining why. Food is a serious business here. Everybody has a strong opinion, tradition is respected and people demand good food. They expect to eat well at home and in restaurants and will have their say if what they are served doesn’t come up to expectations…and rightly so.

Heather and I left before the judging was completed, so I don’t know which soup was chosen as the winner. I will let you know if I find out.

Click here to see the exciting finals from last year.

Evil ivy

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Wherever I walk in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana areas I see lovely old trees covered with ivy. Many people think this looks attractive, and while I think that ivy is a pretty plant, it is a pest when it wraps itself around trees. It eventually strangles the tree and kills it.

If the ivy is small enough and close enough I pull it off. The ivy on the tree below is now dying on the road beside the tree. I hate to see these trees destroyed.

Does anyone know why more isn’t done to rid the trees of this pest?

Cucina povera…Garfagnana style

Posted on February 4, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

It has become fashionable to serve Cucina Povera, which roughly translates as “peasant food”. In tough times people had to do the best they could with humble ingredients (Italians are very good at this)…some they grew themselves and some they foraged for in the forests.

The Garfagnana area has seen some lean years in the past and the people here were very resourceful in their food preparation. On the weekend I went to the small, and very pretty village of Sassi, near Molazzana, in the mountains above the Serchio Valley to a restaurant called Il Totto, which specialises in the cucina povera of the area.

The dining room was very cosy on a cold, winter day.

We were early, but there were a couple of diners already enthusiastically tucking in to the local delights.

We began with antipasti…onions, farro, bean salad, salumi and the delicious, crisp thin bread often served in the area.

My co-eaters were at Il Totto especially for the chestnut polenta, and a platter soon arrived.

Along with the chestnut polenta came “ossi salati”, which literally translates as salted bones. Once most of the meat has been removed, pork bones are soaked in brine for several days before being boiled. It would have to be one of the least photogenic meals I have seen, but I can assure you, it was delicious.

I was not, however, delighted with the chestnut polenta. My 2 friends went on to eat nearly 3 platters of it. I have decided it is an acquired taste, one I can happily spend the rest of my life not acquiring. The old gentleman at the table beside us agreed with me. When he was a small child he had to eat it every day, and never wants to see it again.

Instead, I was served some regular polenta with cinghiale, wild boar…and it was very good.

Il Totto is a delightful restaurant. The charming owner/chef, Signore Nesti, is helped by his friendly family members. It is well worth the drive on some narrow roads to get there.

Telephone before you go to make sure they are open. 0583 760061 or 338 5854243

daltotto@libero.it

Cappella, San Cassiano

Posted on January 31, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

San Cassiano is made up of several hamlets. I decided to explore one of the upper villages, Cappella. Look for the sign on the left as you come towards San Cassiano from La Villa.

Cappella is a pretty collection of well kept houses under the looming, mist covered mountain behind it. Of course it is not always covered in mist, but on a chilly winter day it looks a bit spooky with its cloudy cover.

It is possible to drive up into the village, but I chose to leave my car at the bottom and walk up. Come with me and see Cappella.

I found a couple of lovely green doors for my collection as well as the little one above.

I think this must be the old communal water supply and washing area.

I love the old stone walls.

Some cachi were left behind on the trees.

I found an excellent renovator’s delight. It just needs a new roof and a little bit of work on the interior.

There is always a cat or 2.

And some interesting garden decoration.

The views are always wonderful from the mountain villages.

I want to come back to see the village in spring, when all the trees are green.

I spotted a sign for the next hamlet…another day.

Brand new helibores

Posted on January 29, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Helibores grow wild under the trees all over Bagni di Lucca. Even though there is snow on the ground these hardy little plants are beginning to appear.

Here’s one we prepared earlier. I photographed this one last year in Limano. They are such pretty little flowers…I’m glad they are back.

Un piccolo terremoto

Posted on January 26, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

There was a small earthquake near Castelnuovo in the Garfagnana yesterday at about 4.00pm.
We felt it here in Bagni di Lucca quite strongly. There was a loud noise and my house shook for a couple of seconds.

There are no reports of damage to people or property. People here seem to be fairly used to having the earth shake, but this was my first earthquake, and I have to say I didn’t like it one bit.

If I hear anything more I will let you know.

Winter

Posted on January 25, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

It is cold in Bagni di Lucca…it is the middle of winter after all.

The Lima River is full of water after recent rain and snow.

The ducks…including the white one and the goose…seem to be coping with the cold.

There is snow on the mountains around us.

…and we have been having some beautiful sunsets.

Winter is a lovely time to be in Bagni di Lucca.

The Demidoff Temple

Posted on January 22, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

The neo-classical building sits beside the lovely Camaione stream, which enters the nearby Lima River at Ponte a Serraglio.

The Demidoff Temple was built in 1831 by grateful Russian Prince, Nicolaj Demidoff, who was delighted to have his gout cured in the thermal waters of Bagni di Lucca. The round building with 4 pillars was designed by architect Giacomo Marracci. It followed the building in 1826 of the Demidoff Hospital, joined by a bridge to the temple. The hospital is now the Villaggio Globale, a holistic health centre.

Lucchio

Posted on January 15, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Lucchio, at 780 metres above sea level, is one of the higher villages of Bagni di Lucca. Stone houses cling to the side of the mountain, making you wonder how on earth they were built all those years ago.

There is a ruin of a fortress at the top of the village. The fortress successfully defended the town against invaders in the centuries of fighting in the area.

We didn’t make it to the very top….next time

Of course there are magnificent views from the village.

Not many people live in Lucchio now, but the village is well preserved and there are some lovely buildings and well kept gardens. We spent an hour or 2 wandering (slowly, these streets are steep ) It is said that the hens in Lucchio lays square eggs to prevent them from rolling down the hill.

Don’t overlook Lucchio in your travels in Bagni di Lucca. It is the last village on the way to Abetone.

Thank you Italy Magazine for choosing Lucchio as the Best Single Travel Post in the Blogger Awards and thank you to all those who voted for Bella Bagni di Lucca.

Here are some other posts on Bella Bagni di Lucca you might find interesting.

An Old Tradition in Bagni di Lucca

A Pool with a View

Medieval Archery Competition

Meet Tina from Ponte a Serraglio

The Villages of Bagni di Lucca

Award night at Teatro Accademio

Posted on January 13, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Teatro Accademio in Bagni di Lucca hosted a fun night recently. Awards were presented to the creators of the best Presepe and Mailart.

The lovely theatre was full.

The awards were presented by members of the Bagni di Lucca Proloco and Borgo degli Artisti.

Afterwards members of Croce Rossa performed Pinocchio.

Here are some of the wonderful Mailart entries.

At the end of the evening Befana came down on stage from above and went out into the square in front of the theatre to pose with the children for photos. The staff from Croce Rossa distributed stockings filled with goodies for the children.

Thank you to Morena Guarnaschelli for the photos and details of the evening.

I will be in Bagni di Lucca myself soon to take part in local activities…can’t wait.