Befana in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on January 8, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Italian children are very lucky around Christmas time, they have Befana as well as Babbo Natale (Father Christmas).

Legend has it that many years ago, on the night of 5th January, the 3 Kings were on their way to see baby Jesus. They became lost and stopped to ask directions. They knocked on the door of an old lady. The Kings asked the lady (who became known as Befana) if she knew the way to Bethlehem. She gave them directions, but didn’t go with them.

Later on she regretted her decision not to go to see baby Jesus. She now flies around on her broomstick offering cakes and sweets to children in the hope that one of them will be the baby Jesus.

It is now a tradition in Italy that Befana comes down the chimney on the night before Epiphany (6th january) and fills stockings with sweets and presents. Adults usually give small gifts to each other as well.

In Bagni di Lucca a little house was built for Santa Claus in the Piazza del Comune, and after Christmas it was made into a house for Befana. I’m sure she found it very comfortable.

Congratulations to all those involved in building this beautiful cottage for Befana. I wish I had been in Bagni di Lucca to see it.

Thank you to Morena Guarnaschelli for sending the photos to me so I could share them with you on the blog.

Lunch and a museum in the Garfagnana

Posted on January 5, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

On a gorgeous autumn day Heather Jarman and I went to the beautiful Garfagnana village of Sillico to have lunch at the lovely restaurant Locanda Belvedere.

The chef, Roberta, cooked a delicious lunch for our group.

It was still warm enough to sit on then outside terrace.

The different breads were made using spelt and chestnut flour.

We began with a ricotta and leek torte.

And fried ricotta balls and pasta fritta.

There were 2 types of pasta…..with mushrooms and a ragu.

The waiter brought a tray of locally collected mushrooms for us to see.

And then we ate the cooked mushrooms as a side dish with our rabbit.

There was a selection of crostini to have with our coffee.

We then headed up the hill to see some of Sillico and to find the museum which was kindly opened just for us.

The museum is in a building beside the church and is full of interesting collections from the distant and not so distant past.

There is an enormous collection of clocks, including this replica of one designed by Leonardo da Vinci.

Then is was time to stand at the top of the village to admire the view over the Garfagana.

You will need to book at Locanda Belvedere…..call Roberta or Clara……(39) 0583 662173

sapori-e-saperi.com

Bagni di Lucca’s Teatro Accademico

Posted on January 2, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

The lovely little theatre in La Villa was modelled on La Scala in Milan…..on a much smaller scale of course.

The interior is very pretty.

It is similar to La Scala in that it is the same circular shape. Here is a look at the original.

It would be a really good idea if the Bagni di Lucca theatre was open occasionally to show visitors the interior. There are often concerts held there…check with the information office for productions.

My 2012 in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on December 29, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

I have spent 6 months in Bagni di Lucca this year. I have been to most of the villages that make up our community. Here is a look back over the year.

I arrived in February 2012 to very cold weather. There had been heavy snow in early February and there was still a little left when I arrived.

The edges of the river in front of my house froze.

I love winter in Bagni di Lucca, but when spring arrives it is magical.

There was some late snow in the mountains.

As the weather warmed up I had a great time visiting the mountain villages.

Sunset in Casabasciana.

The beginning of spring in Fornoli.

Montefegatesi in the spring sunshine.

A doorway in Granaiola.

Colle shines in the spring sun.

The pansies on the bridge at Ponte a Serraglio look cheerful.

The memorial for the fallen patriots in La Villa.

Geese in Longoio out for a walk.

Early morning at Ponte a Serraglio.

Looking down on Ponte a Serraglio.

Pears ripening in the spring sun.

The view from Bagni Caldi.

Early summer in Lugliano.

The view from upper Vico Pancellorum.

Picking cherries in Pieve di Monti di Villa.

Decorating the piazza in Brandeglio.

The gorgeous pool in La Villa.

The archery competition in La Villa.

Summer geraniums.

The beginning of autumn.

Grapevines near Longoio.

Lucchio appearing between the trees.

Chestnut time.

Autumn at the old station in Fornoli.

Porcini mushroom time.

The first snow of the season.

I left just as heavy rain began to fall in Bagni di Lucca.

My favourite post of the year was about Renzo, a shepherd we met tending his sheep. I love these chance encounters with Bagni di Lucca locals. Most are happy to take the time to talk about their lives in this gorgeous part of the world.

The most popular post was the one called Meet Emilio Ferrari. The post was Freshly Pressed ( featured by WordPress) early in the year. Emilio and his lovely wife Alfa (they drive a Fiat) has been read by thousands of people all over the world.

I will be back in Bagni di Lucca soon…..can’t wait.

Christmas in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on December 25, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Lots of fun things have been happening in Bagni di Lucca for Christmas. I am in sunny Australia now, but luckily for us Morena from Borgo degli Artisti has been taking photos of events around town.

There has been a presepe exhibition at the Circolo dei Forestieri in La Villa. Bagni di Lucca has a history of making presepe…nativity scenes.

An old mould is on display to show how the statues are made.

A couple of wonderful old paintings are included in the exhibition.

A special presepe has been created by Fontanini, a local company still making presepe, and is in place on the balcony of Circolo dei Forestieri.

The exhibition will be on display for another couple of weeks…go upstairs at the Circolo dei Forestieri if you are in the area.

A wonderful event took place in the area in front of Circolo dei Forestieri with the making of an enormous necci. The fires were lit.

The giant pans were put in place.

The necci batter was spread on the pan.

The top of the pan was put on and heat applied.

Soon the necci was ready to eat.

I can’t tell you how much I wish I had been there for this. I love it when the whole community gets involved.

Paula Chesterman has been busy organising a choir and with the help of enthusiastic locals, an hour of hymns and readings from the bible took place the other night.

Mulled wine and mince pies were served afterwards…well deserved.

The choir will meet again in March. Click here for more information.

Morena has been busy with the children of the village with a workshop on elf making. The children then designed a ‘mailart’ envelope with stamp and letters were written to Santa. The best 5 envelopes will awarded on 5th January at the theatre in La Villa.

Thank you Morena for being roving reporter for the blog and sharing wonderful local activities with us.

Buon Natale

Posted on December 23, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Merry Christmas to all the followers of Bella Bagni di Lucca. I hope you have a wonderful Christmas and a happy and healthy New Year.

Thank you for following Bella Bagni di Lucca. Perhaps I will see you in our lovely village one day.

I will be back in Bagni di Lucca soon to gather more photos and stories to share with you. If there is anything you would particularly like to see, let me know, and I will do my best to track it down.

Cocciglia

Posted on December 19, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Legend has it that Cocciglia was built on land owned by a Roman settler named Cocilius. Only about 80 people now live in the village. It was once an important fortified town which guarded the road leading to Controneria, further up the mountain.
There is a short road to the village from the Brennero Road. On the way is a small church with an impressive bell tower.

The village comes into view just around the corner from the church.

There is also a view across to Pallegio.

There is a walking path opposite the church which appears to lead to the village above.

I took the easy option and drove up the road to the tiny parking area just outside Cocciglia. Come for a walk through the little village.

The church is right at the top of the village.

This is the stone over the door to the church.

On the way up to the church is this quaint statue.

I found the next colourful image on the front of a house.

I saw no people on my walk, but the village is obviously lived in. There are pretty gardens and the houses are in good repair.

The village is no longer isolated, but I can’t help thinking about the lives of people who lived here centuries ago. This place is tiny and life must have been tough. I hope the residents from the past occasionally had time to sit back and enjoy the view.

Pallegio

Posted on December 17, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Pallegio has ancient origins. It was once a fortified stronghold guarding the Controneria area nearby. The village is not far from the Brennero Road towards Abetone.

It is a sleepy little village with 132 inhabitants. Come for a wander with me.

Like all of Bagni di Lucca’s mountain villages, there are wonderful views.

The narrow streets have many delights.

Soon it is back to the car park and time to say goodbye to Pallegio.

On the way back to the Brennero I found a road to the left and found what I think is the oratory of S.Maria della Quercia.

A little further on is a lovely wooded area and I found another renovator’s delight……there is a never ending supply of them in these parts.

Can you see yourself getting to work on this one?

Making necci

Posted on December 13, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Chestnuts have been an important part of the diet in the Appenine and Apuan regions in northern Tuscany for centuries. Particularly in times of war and famine, chestnuts saved people from starvation.

Necci are a type of pancake made from chestnut flour. They are simply made by mixing chestnut flour with water (250 grams of flour to 1 cup water). The batter is mixed until smooth and slightly thicker than a normal crepe batter.

Each area has a slightly different recipe. Sometimes a little oil and salt is added, or rosemary.

There are several ways to cook the necci. At a couple of chestnut festivals I have seen them cooked between 2 cast iron discs with long handles over a flame. A little olive oil is placed on the flat disc and spread with a potato cut in half, then a small quantity of batter is placed on the disc and spread thinly, and the other disc is put on top. It isn’t as easy as it sounds, you need just the right amount of oil and heat or the pancake sticks to the disc and makes a horrible mess.

Once browned on both side they are spread with ricotta or nutella and rolled up…and eaten.

At a food festival in Lucca we saw a very interesting way of cooking necci. The batter was placed on hot, flat stones covered with chestnut leaves and stacked on top of each other.

This method also proved to be effective, and delicious.

Look for necci at food festivals in the area, or if you are in Lucca, go to Via Buia and look for Pizza da Felice where you can buy necci, along with delicious pizza and cecina, the chickpea pancakes popular in the area.

Click here to see a gorgeous chestnut festival in Colognora and here for an equally fabulous one in Lupinaia.

Riolo

Posted on December 9, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The road to Riolo is one of my least favourite in Bagni di Lucca. It is extremely narrow and winding, with little room to pass if you happen to come across another car. The entrance to the village is also narrow. I suggest parking in the area at the bottom of the village and walking up.

The sign at the entrance to the village suggests a low speed. I think this would be too fast.

The village is a pretty collection of houses, with some lovely decoration, and of course, there are wonderful views from the village. Like all of the villages of Bagni di Lucca Riolo has something different and special to offer visitors.