Autumn is a season for mushrooms. These mysterious funghi have been appearing in the forests around Bagni di Lucca for weeks.
I wouldn’t dare pick any of these……leave it to the experts.
Mushrooms everywhere
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Tag Archives: travel
Budding artists in Bagni di Lucca
On a wet weekend what could be better than gathering with friends to learn something about painting? Morena from Borgo degli Artisti offered her services over 2 afternoons to teach some local children at the studio in Ponte a Serraglio.
On the first day the children learned to mix colours, and about the colour spectrum.
On the second day the children learned about shading, and set about to paint a Christmas scene.
Some of the paintings will be framed and displayed in the gallery at Christmas time. I hope you will all come to Borgo degli Artisti at Ponte a Serraglio to see them.
Perhaps you can buy a painting before the artist becomes famous.
Bugnano, the abandoned village in Bagni di Lucca
Bugnano is a tiny collection of completely abandoned houses, just outside the village of Riolo. There is no sign to the village, just an overgrown track at a bend in the road.
I have heard that the village was abandoned after WWII when the residents went off in search of a better life. A few years ago an English company planned to restore it and turn it into holiday accommodation, but their plans came to nothing. It may be too far gone now to do anything. The forest is taking over.
It is quite sad to see these ruined houses. Somebody once loved them. Some touches of home remain.
One house must have been very grand in its day.
The kitchen sink is still there.
And the place where the fireplace would have been.
What must have been the living room has some frescoes remaining.
The front room has great views over the mountains.
Soon the forest may take over completely.
Even the mushrooms growing near the big house look dark and sinister.
Somebody has camped in one of the houses recently.
Do you know anyone with lots of money and some imagination? Wouldn’t it be great to see the village live again?
Teri Giannetti has kindly sent some extra photos of Bugnano.
My favourite building in Ponte a Serraglio
We almost bought an apartment in this gorgeous building designed by Lucchese architect Giuseppe Pardini. The building was constructed in 1838 and once housed the prestigious Hotel de Russie.
The building has a colourful history. In 1904 – 1905 English writer Louise de la Ramee, better known as Ouida, stayed in the hotel. She is now buried in the English cemetery nearby. Click here to see more on the cemetery.
During WWII the building was occupied by the German army. There is a plaque on the wall beside the street to commemorate the 13 patriots who were imprisoned inside.
There are now 6 apartments here. I particularly love the balcony at the front of the building. The middle one was almost ours.
I would love to see the building renovated …….. but not too much.
Porcini mushrooms
It is porcini season in Bagni di Lucca. They are in all the restaurants, proudly displayed in baskets.
If you drive along mountain roads you see cars parked and people scouring the forests for these delicious mushrooms. They grow well in chestnut and pine forests.
Porcini means piglet, perhaps because they look a bit like plump little piglets. They can grow to about 30 centimetres across and can weigh up to a kilo.
I have eaten risotto with porcini, pasta with porcini, fried porcini, grilled porcini and best of all fresh, raw porcini with a squeeze of lemon and black pepper. They have to be just picked for this to work well.
Autumn is here, bringing these delectable delights to eat.
This was what greeted me at my car this morning.
Circolo dei Forestieri
Circolo dei Forestieri doesn’t mean “circle of forest workers”. It was the Foreigners’ Club years ago. The building was rebuilt in 1924 over an existing 18th century structure. It was the meeting place of visitors to Bagni di Lucca and used for gambling until 1936.
It is now a restaurant. There is a lovely big dining room inside and in summer there is outdoor dining in front of the restaurant and a delightful terrace at the back, with pretty views over the river.
Although it looks quite grand the food is very reasonably priced……and very good. I photographed my own delicious food and the lovely people at the next table kindly let me take theirs as well.
That was my caprese salad and the bread that came with it was hot from the oven.
A lemon sorbet arrived between courses.
Say hello to Giovanni and Sabina…..and have a great meal.
PS. Unfortunately Circolo dei Forestieri has closed. Is there anyone out there who would like to run a restaurant in Bagni di Lucca??? It would be great to see someone take it over and bring it to life again.
Many years ago the Circolo dei Forestieri was surrounded by huge trees. Fortunately the new ones are growing.
The chestnut festival at Ponte a Serraglio
The annual chestnut festival hosted by the Gruppo Alpini and the Borgo Artisti was held on Sunday in the lovely park beside Villa Fiori. It was a gorgeous autumn day and the chestnuts were roasting.
In times of famine and in the lean years after WWII chestnuts formed an important part of the local diet……they deserve to be celebrated.
As well as roasted chestnuts, necci (chestnut pancakes) were served with ricotta, sausage or nutella. The pancakes are cooked between 2 flat pans over a flame.
There was also pasta fritta….pasta dough deep fried and salted…..too delicious for words.
There was a small collection of chestnut memorabilia, including a wonderful old photo of men dehusking chestnuts.
And the stomping shoes.
There was a tiny chestnut cottage made by one of the local artists.
There was art in the park.
And some very concentrated pumpkin painting.
It was a fun day……don’t miss these local events.
Vetteglia
Vetteglia is a tiny hamlet in the San Cassiano area of Bagni di Lucca. 37 people live here. I think they were all having an afternoon nap the day I visited the village. I enjoyed a lovely walk in the afternoon sun.
The village is dominated the imposing Pratofiorito, where you can still see the Ravi del Pratofiorito (landslides) which destroyed the hamlets of Celle and Cerro.
There are great views across to neighbouring San Cassiano.
And to the villages on the other side of the valley.
The village is a jumble of well kept houses, pretty gardens and small fruit and vegetable plots.
The last of the peaches and pears for the season.
I almost missed this grey cat in his grey corner.
There are a few renovator’s delights to be seen.
Some perfectly stacked wood piles waiting for winter.
A perfect garden shed.
A pretty little church.
And it is only 40 minutes walk to San Gemignano.
Another day…. For me it was back to the top of the village for a last look across the tiny piazza at the top and back to my car.
Festa della Castagna…….in Villa Fiori Park
The annual Chestnut Festival…..Festa della Castagna, will be held this Sunday 7th October in the park beside Villa Fiori at Ponte a Serraglio.
The local Alpini group will be providing roasted chestnuts and delicious necci. Last year I recall they served some excellent pasta fritta as well.
There will be several stands selling arts and crafts and there will be painting and drawing for children, provided by the Borgo degli Artisti.
Festivities will begin at 10.00am. Don’t miss what is sure to be a fun day.
9 handsome men on Ponte a Serraglio
This group of handsome fellows gathered for a photograph on the bridge at Ponte a Serraglio 50 years ago.
In the back row from the left……Roberto Calistri, Aldo Berni, Umberto Lenzini, Liliano Saivetti and Benito
In the front….Vito Lorenzelli, Sandro Fazzi, Renzo Moschino and Amelio Bianchi.
Some are no longer with us, some have moved away…..but I found 2 handsome chaps still here.
On the left is Vito Lorenzelli and to his right is Roberto Calistri.
Vito happily showed me the original photo and gave me the names. I will need to be reminded of Benito’s cognome. Vito is now back in Scotland, where he lives for most of the year. I see Roberto regularly at the Ponte with his delightful granddaughter Agnese, my favourite little Ponte person.
Bella Bagni di Lucca 