Pieve di Controne…second edition

Posted on February 23, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Anyone who lives in Pieve di Controne…or has visited and fallen in love with the area…or has ancestors who come from the hamlets around Bagni di Lucca, will be interested in reading the second edition of Pieve di Controne.

First published in 1971, Pievano Don Elio Carlotti tells the story of the ancient parish of Pieve di Controne from its early inhabitants in the centuries before Christ, up to the years following WWII. He shares his love of these hill towns above Bagni di Lucca, its churches, ceremonies and its people.

The second edition has Don Carlotti’s text in both Italian and English. Genealogical trees for over 50 of the parish’s families have been expanded by Ann Barsi to include ancestors from the 1600s to the present day. New to the second edition are Family Pages submitted by the descendants of the Pieve community from around the world, showing us where they are now, and how they fondly remember their Nonni from the Pieve. Photos old and new give us a closeup look at the beauty of the Pieve di Controne.

All proceeds from the sale of the book will go to help fund the repairs to the Campanile at Pieve di Controne…an excellent reason to buy it…apart from the fact that it is a great read and of interest to anyone who loves this area. At one time Ponte a Serraglio and Chifenti were part of the Plebato of Pieve di Controne.

The book is €20 and is available from Claudio Gemignani in Gombereto and Andreina Bianchi at Via Tovani 19, Fornoli.

Or email Ann Barsi at abarsi@verizon.net

A walk in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on February 20, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

This Saturday 23rd February there will be 2 guided walks around Bagni di Lucca. The first will start in the piazza at Ponte a Serraglio at 10.00am and will be lead by Paolo Moschino. There will be a short walk to introduce the village and will include commentary on the art and history of our lovely Ponte a Serraglio.

The second walk will begin in La Villa at the Parco Contessa Casalini at 15.30.

Don’t worry, the snow has melted now, but I couldn’t resist posting more of my snow photos.
The commentary will be in Italian, but everyone is invited to join in.

Please call 3338893108 or 3407806967 for more details.

Mini Carnevale in Fornoli

Posted on February 18, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Sunday was party day at Fornoli. The main street was closed to traffic and stalls selling all kinds of treats were set up early. The main event, however, began at about 2.30 near the Ponte delle Catene at Chifenti. This is where the crowds gathered to watch the start of the parade which was to cross the bridge and head into the town.

The mayor was there.

A man in a very nice green sash gave an enthusiastic speech.

Some people in very colourful costumes were there.

There was an excellent band.

One band member had eyelashes to match her shirt.

The band leader did a great job, and wore a particularly colourful scarf.

But mostly the day was about children. Local schools took part in a dress up competition and the children looked very splendid indeed.

Heroes and superheroes were well represented, so we all felt secure and protected.

The very young were included as well.

Not everyone was happy to be there.

But that was the exception. It was a fun afternoon with everyone getting into the spirit of the occasion…even when it began to rain.

Snow on the mountain villages

Posted on February 15, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Fornoli, Ponte a Serraglio and La Villa are the lowest of the villages of Bagni di Lucca at 120,130 and 150 metres above sea level. Montefegatesi is the highest, at almost 850 metres. The other villages are dotted around the mountains at various levels.

The recent snow melted fairly quickly in the low villages, but the roads to the upper villages were dangerous with snow and icy conditions for days. As soon as I thought it was safe I headed into the hills to see what was left of the snow.

Colle is the hill village directly in front of my apartment and it looked particularly lovely with its snowy cover as I set off.

The roads to the higher villlages are even more narrow than usual with their edges lined with snow.

Vico Pancellorum was enjoying a sunny day after the snow.

Looking the other way was a tiny village nestled in the shadow of a mountain.

Vico Pancellorum’s olive trees seem to have survived the snow.

The narrow streets haven’t had enough sun yet to melt the snow.

Goats hoping for some warmer weather.

There were some stunning views from the top of Vico Pancellorum.

On the way out of Vico Pancellorum I spotted some very colourful washing drying in the sun.

The ski lift looks as though it could be useful today.

I drove to San Cassiano next for some different views.

On the way back to Ponte a Serraglio I could see lovely Lugliano in the distance.

With a bit of luck I will get to some of the other villages while there is stil some snow lying around.

It’s snowing in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on February 11, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

It started snowing early this morning and it has continued all day. This doesn’t happen very often in Bagni di Lucca, so I went out walking around Ponte a Serraglio and up to Bagni Caldi to make the most of it. Come for a walk up the hill and back with me.

Some of these photos look black and white, but they aren’t. The snow became heavier as the day went on and while I was out walking a fog rolled in and the visibility became very poor.

The roads have been treacherous. The snow plough has had trouble keeping the road clear.

You don’t often see snow on palm trees.

There is not much use for these now.

This was as far up the hill as I went. I heard several trees cracking and falling under the weight of the snow, so I thought it was time to head home.

Le Torre disappeared completely from view seconds after this was taken.

It has been a beautiful day in Bagni di Lucca. Click here to see photos I took earlier in the day at Ponte a Serraglio.

If the roads become safe I will head to some of the other villages to see the snow there.

Serious soup

Posted on February 10, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Last year I went with Heather Jarman of Sapori-e-Saperi to the finals of the Disfida della Zuppa…the local Slow Food soup competition. The soup is a speciality of the area, zuppa all frantoiana, a type of minestrone, based on 4 ingredients…beans, cavolo nero, olive oil and toasted bread.

Each family would have their own recipe handed down through generations, each with its own extras, which should be of the season. Last year there was much discussion about the addition of zucchini, which doesn’t grow in winter. A couple of soups were criticised for adding zucchini…I told you this was serious.

This year I attended the first heat of the competition in Pieve di Compito, close to Lucca. There were 6 soups vying to go forward to the next stage.

The room was still being prepared when we arrived.

The numbered bowls were stacked and ready.

People began to gather.

Tasting and voting instructions were given.

…and the first soup arrived. Heather and I really liked this one, even though is was a little salty. The aroma was excellent, the texture good and it had a good balance of beans, vegetables and bread.

The next one was also good, with quite a different taste. It is amazing how different the soups can be using similar ingredients.

The third one tasted very good, but there was a little too much bread.

The bowls began to stack up.

Number 4 was good, we liked the whole beans.

The fifth one looked quite different, but the taste was good.

The final soup arrived and we had to make some serious decisions.

The first soup was my favourite.

Last year the discussion became heated about zucchini. This year it was tomatoes. It was agreed that tomatoes are not in season in winter, so perhaps should not be in the soup, but finally most people agreed that they could be there because it would be usual to bottle tomatoes in the summer and most households would have a good supply of passata to be used over the winter months.

People often ask me why the food is so good in Italy. I think the story above goes a long way to explaining why. Food is a serious business here. Everybody has a strong opinion, tradition is respected and people demand good food. They expect to eat well at home and in restaurants and will have their say if what they are served doesn’t come up to expectations…and rightly so.

Heather and I left before the judging was completed, so I don’t know which soup was chosen as the winner. I will let you know if I find out.

Click here to see the exciting finals from last year.

Evil ivy

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Wherever I walk in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana areas I see lovely old trees covered with ivy. Many people think this looks attractive, and while I think that ivy is a pretty plant, it is a pest when it wraps itself around trees. It eventually strangles the tree and kills it.

If the ivy is small enough and close enough I pull it off. The ivy on the tree below is now dying on the road beside the tree. I hate to see these trees destroyed.

Does anyone know why more isn’t done to rid the trees of this pest?

Cucina povera…Garfagnana style

Posted on February 4, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

It has become fashionable to serve Cucina Povera, which roughly translates as “peasant food”. In tough times people had to do the best they could with humble ingredients (Italians are very good at this)…some they grew themselves and some they foraged for in the forests.

The Garfagnana area has seen some lean years in the past and the people here were very resourceful in their food preparation. On the weekend I went to the small, and very pretty village of Sassi, near Molazzana, in the mountains above the Serchio Valley to a restaurant called Il Totto, which specialises in the cucina povera of the area.

The dining room was very cosy on a cold, winter day.

We were early, but there were a couple of diners already enthusiastically tucking in to the local delights.

We began with antipasti…onions, farro, bean salad, salumi and the delicious, crisp thin bread often served in the area.

My co-eaters were at Il Totto especially for the chestnut polenta, and a platter soon arrived.

Along with the chestnut polenta came “ossi salati”, which literally translates as salted bones. Once most of the meat has been removed, pork bones are soaked in brine for several days before being boiled. It would have to be one of the least photogenic meals I have seen, but I can assure you, it was delicious.

I was not, however, delighted with the chestnut polenta. My 2 friends went on to eat nearly 3 platters of it. I have decided it is an acquired taste, one I can happily spend the rest of my life not acquiring. The old gentleman at the table beside us agreed with me. When he was a small child he had to eat it every day, and never wants to see it again.

Instead, I was served some regular polenta with cinghiale, wild boar…and it was very good.

Il Totto is a delightful restaurant. The charming owner/chef, Signore Nesti, is helped by his friendly family members. It is well worth the drive on some narrow roads to get there.

Telephone before you go to make sure they are open. 0583 760061 or 338 5854243

daltotto@libero.it

Cappella, San Cassiano

Posted on January 31, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

San Cassiano is made up of several hamlets. I decided to explore one of the upper villages, Cappella. Look for the sign on the left as you come towards San Cassiano from La Villa.

Cappella is a pretty collection of well kept houses under the looming, mist covered mountain behind it. Of course it is not always covered in mist, but on a chilly winter day it looks a bit spooky with its cloudy cover.

It is possible to drive up into the village, but I chose to leave my car at the bottom and walk up. Come with me and see Cappella.

I found a couple of lovely green doors for my collection as well as the little one above.

I think this must be the old communal water supply and washing area.

I love the old stone walls.

Some cachi were left behind on the trees.

I found an excellent renovator’s delight. It just needs a new roof and a little bit of work on the interior.

There is always a cat or 2.

And some interesting garden decoration.

The views are always wonderful from the mountain villages.

I want to come back to see the village in spring, when all the trees are green.

I spotted a sign for the next hamlet…another day.

Brand new helibores

Posted on January 29, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

Helibores grow wild under the trees all over Bagni di Lucca. Even though there is snow on the ground these hardy little plants are beginning to appear.