12 years ago

Today, 1st March, is the twelfth anniversary of the first time we stood on the bridge at Ponte a Serraglio and decided Bagni di Lucca was where we wanted to buy our little piece of Italy.

A lot of water has passed under the Ponte since then, but I can safely say that it was an excellent decision. We love the village and enjoy spending several months a year here. It really is our second home.

I celebrated by planted pansies on the bridge with the help of the newest Australian to buy a house at Ponte a Serraglio…meet Paul.

Paul at Ponte

…and the pansies. Daffodils are also making an appearance. I was hoping for some sun to help them along…maybe tomorrow.

Ponte pansies

Ponte daffodils

Ponte pansies

Thanks Ponte a Serraglio for making us welcome.

Salt and tobacco

I have seen these signs all over Italy.

Sali e Tabacchi

But I had not really looked at them carefully. I read a blog by Zoe Boccabella, and she recently wrote about Tabacchi, the shops in Italy where you can buy cigarettes, bus tickets, lottery tickets, top up your phone cards and pay bills.

What I hadn’t realised was that they were, for a long time, the only places you could buy salt when it was a monopoly of the state. This is why the word salt…Sali…is included in the sign.

We have a Tabacchi in Ponte a Serraglio, but it has a new sign where the word salt doesn’t appear…pity really. Maybe the traditional signs are on the way out.

Tabacchi

Voting for the Italy Magazine Blog Awards closes on 28th February. It appears that you can vote many times. I would love it if you would click here to vote for Bella Bagni di Lucca in the Best Single Art and Culture Post.

…and here to vote for the Best Single Travel Post.

The winners are announced on 3rd March. I will tell you the good, or bad news as soon as I know.

Bread and pizza

Just up the road (Via Letizia) from my apartment in Ponte a Serraglio is a small shop selling bread and pizza by the slice. I am ashamed to say that I hadn’t been there in my 10 years in Ponte. Bread and pizza at Ponte a Serraglio It was clear that I should remedy this and when some friends suggested I join them for a mortadella and beer evening there I quickly agreed. It was great fun and I have also been to a fish and chip evening…also excellent. Keep an ear to the ground for these enjoyable events.

The friendly owner makes delicious bread, biscuits, apple pies and pizza. I have now become a regular.

The shop is on the right as you go towards La Villa. There is lots of parking, but it is an easy walk from Ponte a Serraglio.

Then and Now…Ponte a Serraglio

The name Ponte a Serraglio (bridge of harem or menagerie. I wonder what went on here in the distant past) is mentioned as “ad Serrajule” in a document for the first time in 838.

I can’t show you what it looked like then, but there are photos from the early 1900s.

Ponte a Serraglio

Ponte a SerraglioPonte a SerraglioPonte a Serraglio

Some of the buildings remain and look similar. Bar Italia and Il Monaco now take the place of the 2 cafes with tables and provide the focus for the piazza.

Ponte a Serraglio

This is the view of the piazza from my balcony.

Ponte a Serraglio

Ponte a Serraglio

The road to the piazza in Ponte a Serraglio looks quite different. The beautiful old plane trees which lined the river have gone.

Ponte a Serraglio

 

Ponte a Serraglio

New trees have been planted and are doing well, but it will be a long time before they are as grand as the old ones.

This photo is taken from the other side of the river, but you can see how the new trees are growing beside the river.

Ponte a Serraglio

The views from the bridge probably haven’t changed all that much.

Ponte a Serraglio

Ponte a Serraglio

We have a new walking bridge across the river.

Ponte a Serraglio

The lovely old towers beside Villa Fiori have been cleaned and look great.

Ponte a Serraglio

I think Ponte a Serraglio is one of the prettiest villages in Bagni di Lucca, but, of course, I am biased.

Ponte a Serraglio

 

Ponte a SerraglioMost of the new photos were taken in summer. I will be back in Ponte a Serraglio soon to enjoy some lovely cold winter weather. I am hoping for snow.

The mule trail from Ponte a Serraglio to Granaiola

The intrepid Belinda has been out walking the wintery hills. There are dozens of ancient mule trails between the villages. The one between Ponte a Serraglio and Granaiola has recently been cleaned up, so Belinda and some mates headed off to discover the trail on a sunny winter day.

The mule track to Granaiola

The terrain is not as beautiful as it is in spring, but winter has its charms.

mule trail from Ponte a Serraglio

Mule trail to Granaiola

mule trail to Granaiola

A very cute chapel appeared on the way.

mule trail to Granaiola

The group enjoyed a very good lunch (pecorino with honey, macaroni with salmon and red wine) at the Rifugio Fiori, a litte further on from Granaiola at Pieve Di Monti di Villa.

mule trail to Granaiola

mule track to Granaiola

They took the road back to Ponte a Serraglio, but there are several tracks down the mountain.

I will tackle this in spring and report further.

 

 

 

A dusting of snow at Ponte a Serraglio

A light dusting of snow has fallen at Ponte a Serraglio. I’m not there to see it, but my friends sent me some photos to share with you. I remember how excited I was the first time I saw snow fall on my balcony. The locals might find it a pest, but it is fun when you are used to a sub tropical climate.

 

Snow at Ponte a Serraglio

snow at Ponte a Serraglio

snow at Ponte a Serraglio

snow at Ponte a Serraglio

Snow at Ponte a Serraglio

 

snow at Ponte a Serraglio

snow at Ponte a Serraglio

snow at Ponte a Serraglio

snow at Ponte a Serraglio

Thanks Kendall, Allan and Ella for sharing your photos. I have been transported from rain in Brisbane to snow at Ponte a Serraglio.

We had some serious snow last year. Click here and here to see the photos.

Sad news at Ponte a Serraglio

The news Kiosk at Ponte a Serraglio is a very important part of our little community. Olga, who owns it, is a delight. She is always smiling and has been a great help to visitors to our village.

I sadly have to report that she is leaving soon. The kiosk is for sale and it will close next week. I really hope that Olga is able to sell the business. We need it at Ponte. Is there anyone out there who would like to buy the kiosk??

Here is Olga when she took over the business a couple of years ago.

News kiosk Ponte a Serraglio

This is last week. It is great to see Graziano as well. He has been very unwell and it is good to see him back on track.

News kiosk Ponte a Serraglio

Good luck Olga on the next stage of your life. We will miss you at Ponte.

Italy Magazine is once again holding their blogger awards for blogs about Italy. I would love it if you could nominate Bella Bagni di Lucca. The blog won the “Best single travel post” last year and lots of readers came to the blog as a result. It would be fun to do well again this year.

Click here to go to the nomination page. I will let you know if the blog makes the short list.

 

2 events in Bagni di Lucca

Talented local artist Morena Guarnaschelli will be exhibiting her latest work at Gabrielli Center at Ponte a Serraglio in conjunction with Andrea’s La Via Interiore and Borgo degli Artisti.

Morena Guarnascelli exhibition

Morena will exhibit 9 water colours inspired by her trip to the Holy Land 2 years ago. The title INSIEME has a double meaning…through art we can see Hebrew and Muslim side by side.

Morena Guarnaschelli exhibition

Morena Guarnaschelli exhibition

Morena Guarnaschelli exhibition

Morena is also offering  a Zentangle Course…doodling while meditating…on Friday, 5.30pm  and Saturday 3.00pm. Call her on 320 1107330 if you would like to take part.

The second event is the annual dinner of Borgo degli Artisti. Everyone is welcome and they will present the 2015 calendar of events.

Borgo degli Artisti event
I am sure both events wil be well attended…have fun.

The slow bells

Slow bells toll when someone dies in our village. The bells ring to announce the funeral and when the body is taken from the church for the last journey.

The bells rang slowly recently for Oriana, one of the lovely old ladies who lived in Ponte a Serraglio. I met her soon after I arrived in the village. She was always ready with a smile and a chat.

She was part of a group of oldish ladies who would gather in the morning for coffee and a good old chinwag.  Several of them are still at the bar every day and there is a cheery “Buongiorno” for me. I haven’t seen Oriana for some time and it appears that she spent the last days of her life in hospital.

There used to be quite a large group of old gentlemen at the bar every morning where they would solve the problems of the world for a few hours, before strolling off home for lunch. This group has dwindled to two or three. I find it very sad to watch them grow old and then disappear one day.

I went to the church to farewell Oriana. She will be missed.

Oriana

I think it is a lovely tribute to a treasured member of the community. The slow bells allow time to think about the life that has been lived, and recall happy memories.

Come to the chestnut festival at Ponte a Serraglio

The annual chestnut festival is to be held at Ponte a Serraglio in the park beside Villa Fiori on Sunday 19th October.

Chestnut festival Ponte

Here are some photos from past events. There will be chestnuts roasting, necci to eat, activities for the children and things to buy.

Chestnut festival Ponte

Chestnut festival Ponte

Chestnut festival Ponte

Chestnut festival Ponte

Chestnut festival Ponte

If the weather is bad it will be held the following Sunday.