Lunch in Vico Pancellorum

Posted on April 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The wonderfully named Vico Pancellorum is a ancient town. Like other towns in Bagni di Lucca, it was involved in conflicts between Florence and Lucca. The town was almost razed to the ground in 1343. It still retains the medieval structure and is fun to explore.

At the entrance to the town is the church, Pieve di S. Paolo, which dates from 873.

The church is Romanesque style. The facade is gabled, with a cross rose window. Symbolic figures are carved in the lunette over the door.

We decided the figure on the left was wearing and early example of board shorts.

It was an overcast day the day we visited, but the view over the surrounding mountains was spectacular.

The wintery landscape seems to suit this village.

We walked around behind the church, where there is a narrow road up to the village.

There were signs of spring to brighten a dull day.

As usual, I love all the little details to be discovered in the tiny streets.

I want a unicorn tap too!

The main purpose of our visit was to have lunch at the very well known restaurant Buca di Baldabo. I have eaten here several times and the food is very good. I have yet to come on a fine day. I will have to keep trying.

Our first course was ravioli with Zingara sauce…..delicious.

I had deer with olives next.

My friend had rabbit with capers.

And who can go past poached pear with chocolate sauce????

On a better day I will go to the higher part of the town to look around.

There are some wonderful old gnarled trees along the road into town.

There are some very interesting works of art as well on the way into town.

I’m not sure of the significance of some of these pieces, but it made us stop and look.

Be sure to phone Buca di Baldabo before you go to make sure they are open. (39) 0583 89062

A chance encounter with Mezzo and Joseph from Limano

Posted on April 2, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

One of the delights about going to the sleepy mountain villages is meeting the locals. We had not long been in Limano when we met Mezzo who took us to meet his mate Joseph. I wanted to take a photo of Mezzo but he wandered off. Joseph suggested I say the word ‘cibo’ but Mezzo wasn’t silly, he knew we didn’t have any cat food with us, so we were ignored.

Joseph kindly offered to pick Mezzo up so I could get a photo.

Joseph has lived for many years in Limano and Mezzo has lived there for all of his 12 years. Joseph has retired now and has much more time to devote to Mezzo, which is as it should be.

Before Mezzo’s time Limano was a stronghold built and fortified to defend the Lima valley from attacks from its enemies, especially Florence. The town was captured by the Florentines in 1428 but taken back by Lucca in 1442.

The centre of the town is Piazza Gave and 5 roads radiate out from there. There is a stone fountain dating from the 16th century.

I was very pleased I had parked outside the town. I don’t know how you would navigate these streets.

We set off towards the church and found this pretty statue in a tiny shrine.

It must be windy up in Limano, there are large rocks holding down roof tiles.

The campanile looks ancient but it actually dates from 1879. The old one was demolished to make way for a bigger aisle in the church.

The narrow streets wind all over the town through tunnels and arches.

I was fascinated by this very long ladder, probably used for elopements.

There are lots of wonderful old buildings to see.

The church dominates the skyline.

There is another church on the other side of the town as well.

There are good views back over the town from here.

And across to neighbouring Vico Pancellorum.

There are some lovely paths around the edge of the town that need further investigation.

Spring is on the way.

There were a few houses being renovated in Limano, which is good. It’s great to see new life coming to the villages. Doing building work in these places is not easy. It is not possible to get trucks in and out. We saw a workman busy moving things around.

It is a little tractor that is able to be pushed around the steep streets. These people are very inventive.

If you happen to be in Limano on 1st August you can take part in the traditional costume ball that takes place in the piazza.

We didn’t see that, but we did see another cat.

Festa Della Primavera in San Cassiano

Posted on March 31, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

This little festa in San Cassiano is, I suspect, an excuse to eat frittelle for S. Giuseppe’s day. I can see no better reason to have a celebration.

The afternoon was slightly overcast, but that didn’t stop the villagers gathering at the park above the town to get together, have a chat and eat some frittelle. Luciana was chief cook.

She told me there were 4 kilos of flour, 1 kilo of sugar, milk and yeast in her batter. She was ably assisted by Mila.

Jim tested the frittelle, decided they were excellent and ate 4, with a cup of sangria to help them along.

The village children had fun as well.

I wonder if they ever get tired of the dramatic landscape here.

I was most impressed with the earrings on one of the festival participants.

I think I need a pair.

San Cassiano is about 10 minutes from La Villa on the road towards Montefegatesi. The whole area is beautiful and dotted with pretty villages.

Renzo and the dog with no name

Posted on March 27, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

As we were driving into Guzzano, a tiny hamlet which is part of the area of Bagni di Lucca called Controneria, we spotted a shepherd watching his flock of sheep and goats. His trusty dog was on guard to make sure that none escaped. None tried, the new spring grass was keeping them busy.

We parked the car and walked back to talk to the shepherd whose name was Renzo.

Renzo told us that he lives in nearby San Cassiano and likes to bring his animals down the mountain along one of the old tracks to feed. Guzzano residents are happy with the arrangement as it means they don’t have to mow the grass.

Renzo’s animals are beautifully cared for. That white billy goat looks as though he has been brushed.

When I asked the dog’s name Renzo just shrugged. The dog is very young and inexperienced, perhaps he has to earn his name.

Being a shepherd must be good for you. Renzo is a fine looking man in excellent condition.

I tried really hard to get him to smile for the camera. He has the most delightful smile.

As we wandered around to the other side of Guzzano we saw the little group head back up the mountain.

I hope there are young people prepared to keep these pastimes alive.

It’s magnolia time in Bagni di Lucca.

Posted on March 24, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The magnolia trees are covered with flowers now. It only lasts a couple of weeks.

Local Information….

Sunday 25th March at 4.00pm is the Festa Della Primavera (spring festival) in San Cassiano

Sunday 1st April is the group walk that starts in Fornoli. You can walk 2, 4, 8, 12, 20 or 25 kilometres. Check in at 7.15am and the walk begins between 8.00am and 9.00am. Cost €2.50

Sunday 15th April at 5.30pm is a concert at Teatro Academico. Cost €10. Book at the library.

Pian di Fiume, an agriturismo in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on March 22, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The Agriturismo Pian di Fiume takes its name from the medieval hamlet which has been lovingly restored and brought back to life. Guests now stay in the old houses that made up the tiny village.

Pian di Fiume is 2 kilometres from La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. Take the road towards Abetone and look for the bridge on the left side of the road.

The agriturismo sits lazily beside the Lima River. At the river level there is a flat plain where the animals are kept. There are chickens, turkeys, horses, sheep, goats and a herd of cinta senese pigs, the semi wild pigs that feed on acorns and chestnuts. They also keep bees and the honey they produce is for sale.

Surely a face that only a mother could love.

Up a very steep dirt road is the restaurant, accommodation and pool.

The setting is lovely.

There is a tiny church from the original village.

Even though we arrived unannounced, Daniela made us a delicious lunch.

Flower shaped ravioli made by Daniela.

There is a lovely dining room.

But we chose to eat on the outside terrace with a view over the valley.

Thank you Daniela for our lovely lunch.

On the way out we spotted a little plaque with Adriano’s name on it. He felt the need to pose beside it.

In summer the river is a great place to swim.

Perhaps you will be joined by the cinta senese who like to drink there.

www.piandifiume.it

info@piandifiume.it

39 0583 805751

Dinner with the huntsmen of Casabasciana

Posted on March 19, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The name Casabasciana probably comes from the Roman settler called Bassius, who built his house here. The town is perched on the side of the hill about 4 kilometres up from Fabbriche di Casabasciana on the SS12.
My friend and I were invited by Heather Jarman from Sapori e Saperi to join the dinner put on by the Squadra di Cacciatori , the hunting team from Casabasciana, an offer too good to refuse, especially since the proceeds of the evening are to be used to renovate a building in town to provide help for some of the older residents.
We went up to the village in the late afternoon to discover the delights of Casabasciana.
The streets of the village are narrow, winding and steep.

There are lots of lovely old buildings to see.

I spotted a small statue of the Madonna in an alcove opposite the main church.

She was standing on an interesting base.

We wandered to the outskirts of the town where the buildings end and some of the farming area still exists.

We met Giovanni with his tractor loaded with wood.

He has lived all his life in Casabasciana and proudly showed us the house that belonged to his grandfather which he has renovated for his daughter.

He keeps a very neat wood pile.

Spring is coming to Casabasciana.

We met Heather who showed us some of the things we missed.

The communal washing area, which is still used.

Her garden shed.

Another little shrine.

Beautiful building decoration.

The oldest, and apparently the best water supply.

The lovely little church beyond the village.

The fresco inside the old church.

We were on the edge of town to see the sunset.

We went to the main square which looked beautiful at night.

The town is tiny, but it has a bar and an excellent shop which stocks everything.

We had a cup of tea in Heather’s lovely kitchen.

Her house has lots of gorgeous rooms.

Finally it was time for dinner.

Tommaso and Anna Rosa serving the crostini.

First course.

Patiently waiting for the next delicious course.

The pasta.

The chingiale arrives.

The vegetables are served by Dalida.

Renato carving the porchetta.

My porchetta.

Alfredo enjoying his stinco (shin bone)

Pannacotta for dolce.

And as is that wasn’t enough, there were frittelle di San Giuseppe to follow.

If you get the chance to attend any of these local dinners, do so, you will love it.

Take a look at Heather’s website and blog. She knows all about the local festivals.

www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Casabasciana from above.

A visit to San Cassiano di Controne

Posted on March 17, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The hamlets that make up San Cassiano were once quite highly populated, but like many of the villages of Bagni di Lucca, it is now a quiet place. We parked the car at the bottom of the village and walked up towards the church and the main square. Along the way we met Arnoldo and his son Fabio who had been collecting fig cuttings to plant.

Arnoldo speaks good English as a result of living in America for 15 years. He came back to his home in San Cassiano in 1971 and has lived here ever since. You can’t blame him, the village is lovely. It sits high on the hill with sunshine all day and spectacular views all around.

He told us that there were 7 parts to San Cassiano. The village will obviously require several visits.

We walked past the War Memorial with the lists of the town’s men who have died in several wars. The list is too long.

Opposite the memorial is the beautiful church, Chiesa Monumentale di S.Cassiano.

The church has been known since 722. The facade is from the period between the 9th and 12th centuries. It was closed so we couldn’t go inside, but the decoration on the outside is lovely.

The campanile is the oldest part of the church.

Spring is coming to San Cassiano.

We were there in time to see a peak hour traffic jam.

Somebody had parked in front of the butcher shop (why not?) and with another car parked on the other side of the road, nobody could get through. Everybody just stopped and had a chat and the customer eventually came out and they went on their way. There was a bit of horn blowing, but not too much.

The mountains behind San Cassiano are quiet spectacular.

There is still evidence of the landslides from the 18th century which wiped out the communities of Celle and Cerro.

The area is beautifully rustic.

There are excellent views of neighbouring villages.

We had a lovely view of San Cassiano in the late afternoon sun as we left.

I have to return to San Cassiano as a restaurant that I particularly like to eat at was not open. Soon spring will really arrive and the village will look completely different on my next visit.

Meet Paola and Massimo (and Toby) from Anchiano

Posted on March 14, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

This is Toby.

Anchiano is actually part of the nearby town of Borgo a Mozzano, but lovely Paola and Massimo are regulars at Il Monaco at Ponte a Serraglio, so I have made them honorary Bagni di Luccans.

Paola invited me for lunch recently with a promise that she would show me her pretty village. I know that Paola is a great cook (she also gives wonderful cooking lessons) so I was delighted to accept the invitation.

I’ll show you lunch first, then their beautiful house and the village.

Paola at work in the kitchen.

They have done a wonderful job renovating 2 old houses in Anchiano. They live in one and rent the other occasionally.

After lunch we headed off with Paola as our guide to discover Anchiano. I shouldn’t have waited so long to go to Anchiano, it is quite lovely.The village is not far off the road which goes between Lucca and Bagni di Lucca.

It is a very pretty little village with beautiful views of the surrounding area from some of the higher parts of the town.

We wandered through the town, heading slowly up to the church on the top of the hill.

First stop was the old washing area which once would have been a very busy part of the village.

The water pressure is quite something.

It is a fun place for the children to play.

The streets are narrow and winding, but mostly flat so the walking is easy.

As is the case in all of these villages, there are always interesting things to discover.

Toby met a friend along the way.

The church looks quite impressive from below.

The war memorial near the church.

The village from the church grounds.

Just below the church is a part of the Gottica Line, with fortifications left over from WWII.

The cemetery below the church is beautifully kept.

The residents come regularly to tend the graves and water the plants.

Everyone has their own water bottle.

Soon spring will come and fill the village with colour.

The wisteria vine will soon be covered with gorgeous lilac blossoms.

If you would like to arrange cooking lessons with Paola email her at …..paola.mori@alice.it.

Paola is a lot of fun and her cooking lessons are great. If you greet her in English don’t be surprised if she responds with a lovely Scottish accent. Her father was born in Barga, the most Scottish town in Italy.