Lunch in Vico Pancellorum

The wonderfully named Vico Pancellorum is a ancient town. Like other towns in Bagni di Lucca, it was involved in conflicts between Florence and Lucca. The town was almost razed to the ground in 1343. It still retains the medieval structure and is fun to explore.

At the entrance to the town is the church, Pieve di S. Paolo, which dates from 873.



The church is Romanesque style. The facade is gabled, with a cross rose window. Symbolic figures are carved in the lunette over the door.



We decided the figure on the left was wearing and early example of board shorts.

It was an overcast day the day we visited, but the view over the surrounding mountains was spectacular.



The wintery landscape seems to suit this village.


We walked around behind the church, where there is a narrow road up to the village.




There were signs of spring to brighten a dull day.


As usual, I love all the little details to be discovered in the tiny streets.


I want a unicorn tap too!

The main purpose of our visit was to have lunch at the very well known restaurant Buca di Baldabo. I have eaten here several times and the food is very good. I have yet to come on a fine day. I will have to keep trying.

Our first course was ravioli with Zingara sauce…..delicious.


I had deer with olives next.


My friend had rabbit with capers.


And who can go past poached pear with chocolate sauce????


On a better day I will go to the higher part of the town to look around.


There are some wonderful old gnarled trees along the road into town.





There are some very interesting works of art as well on the way into town.



I’m not sure of the significance of some of these pieces, but it made us stop and look.

Be sure to phone Buca di Baldabo before you go to make sure they are open. (39) 0583 89062

23 thoughts on “Lunch in Vico Pancellorum

  1. WOW! You captured so beautiful and interesting and delicious photographs… fascinated me once again… You are amazing dear Debra… Thank you, with my love, nia

  2. What a fascinating little village and the mountains! Almost looked like the Dolomites but not quite! I loved the gnarled trees and the beautiful little unicorn. What an eye for detail you have. The food looked delicious as always. I looked up Zingara but could only find Gypsy. I’m not sure about the deer and the rabbit but the ravioli looked wonderful and the pear – well, who would have pear in red wine when you could have pear in chocolate sauce?

  3. Great photos, Debra, in spite of the bad weather. Vico is a very interesting town and the weird sculptures really make you think. I love the one with the door.
    I guess that the pears were poached in red wine and then covered with chocolate sauce. Yummy!!!!

      • Hi Debra…The “weird” as you put it sculptures are the works by my cousin who lives in that house. His works were actually featured at Le Terme di Bagni di Lucca a few years ago and he has been written up locally as these sculptures mostly have significant meanings. Mostly life and spiritually. I’ll be back in Oct..will you be there?

      • I absolutely love those sculptures! I think they are delightful and are the perfect entrance to Vico Pancellorum. It is just the thing that should be encouraged in the area. I am returning to Bagni di Lucca in September and I will be there for 2 months. Perhaps I could speak to your cousin about his art and write a post for the blog about him. Do you think he would be interested?

  4. I like the detail on the lunette and can figure out the meaning of most of them, but the one that looks like a checkerboard has me stumped. And can you enter the tree with the built-in door? I’m curious. Gorgeous pictures, as always.

  5. Small Italian towns in the mountains are treasures … and to think one can find good restaurants there as well is a plus! Thanks for capturing and sharing the beauty!

  6. Pingback: Vico Pancellorum, all the way to the top | Bella Bagni di Lucca

  7. Beautiful pictures Debra. We’ve had a look around Vico a couple of times as its such a lovely place. We’ve not had the pleasure of eating at B di B yet, although i’m sure the opportunity will arise. All of the food in your article looked quite superb. Italians are so lucky!

  8. Currently preparing for our last meal in Vico P – back to the UK tomorrow after a week in Casa Zola (not plugging, but eye-level with the church and one of the only swimming pools in the village – anyone want to chip-in and we’ll buy it!!) If you head up into the village (on foot) you’ll come across yet more art pieces, some more ‘accessible’ than others, but their very existence fascinates me. The mix of 14th century tradition and modern art is wonderful, the views outstanding and as a base from which to investigate Florence and Lucca, I think it’s unsurpassed! ….Ben

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