Meet Catia from Giocondo in Lugliano

Posted on November 7, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

I joined Heather Jarman’s group recently to visit the farm of Catia and Maurizio Citti in Lugliano. Giocondo has 20 hectares of land with chestnut trees, olive trees and various crops. The main attraction was their herd of Cinta Senese pigs.

Cinta Senese is an ancient breed of Tuscan pig. They have been raised in the area for centuries. After almost becoming extinct, the breed is now being bred again. Unlike normal pigs which are usually intensively bred, Cinta Senese are kept in large outdoor pens and fed a diet as close as possible to their preferred diet of acorns and food from the forest floor.

They are prized for their excellent flavour. Catia makes her own prosciutto, sausage and other pork products. Once you try salumi from Cinta Senese you will be spoiled forever.

As well as the pigs, there are cows and sheep bred for their milk to make cheese, and donkeys just for fun.

Catia also grows apples, pears, figs, strawberries, raspberries and chillies to make jams and preserves.

While Catia was preparing our delicious lunch I wandered around the forest on the property.

The views from the property are spectacular.

Lunch was prepared using only local products. First we had porcini mushrooms with polenta and pecorino cheese made by Catia.

Next was prosciutto, salami and a mature pecorino with onion jam and chillie jam, and crostini with lardo and sausage with stracchino.

Catia had also made a cake for us, which she served with a blueberry sauce.

Take a look at Giocondo’s website to see all the products they produce. I don’t know when they sleep.

www.agriturismogiocondo.com

Thank you Catia (right) and Heather for a fun day.

www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Mushrooms everywhere

Posted on November 3, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Autumn is a season for mushrooms. These mysterious funghi have been appearing in the forests around Bagni di Lucca for weeks.

I wouldn’t dare pick any of these……leave it to the experts.

Budding artists in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on October 30, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

On a wet weekend what could be better than gathering with friends to learn something about painting? Morena from Borgo degli Artisti offered her services over 2 afternoons to teach some local children at the studio in Ponte a Serraglio.

On the first day the children learned to mix colours, and about the colour spectrum.

On the second day the children learned about shading, and set about to paint a Christmas scene.

Some of the paintings will be framed and displayed in the gallery at Christmas time. I hope you will all come to Borgo degli Artisti at Ponte a Serraglio to see them.

Perhaps you can buy a painting before the artist becomes famous.

Bugnano, the abandoned village in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on October 27, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Bugnano is a tiny collection of completely abandoned houses, just outside the village of Riolo. There is no sign to the village, just an overgrown track at a bend in the road.

I have heard that the village was abandoned after WWII when the residents went off in search of a better life. A few years ago an English company planned to restore it and turn it into holiday accommodation, but their plans came to nothing. It may be too far gone now to do anything. The forest is taking over.

It is quite sad to see these ruined houses. Somebody once loved them. Some touches of home remain.

One house must have been very grand in its day.

The kitchen sink is still there.

And the place where the fireplace would have been.

What must have been the living room has some frescoes remaining.

The front room has great views over the mountains.

Soon the forest may take over completely.

Even the mushrooms growing near the big house look dark and sinister.

Somebody has camped in one of the houses recently.

Do you know anyone with lots of money and some imagination? Wouldn’t it be great to see the village live again?

Teri Giannetti has kindly sent some extra photos of Bugnano.

My favourite building in Ponte a Serraglio

Posted on October 23, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

We almost bought an apartment in this gorgeous building designed by Lucchese architect Giuseppe Pardini. The building was constructed in 1838 and once housed the prestigious Hotel de Russie.

The building has a colourful history. In 1904 – 1905 English writer Louise de la Ramee, better known as Ouida, stayed in the hotel. She is now buried in the English cemetery nearby. Click here to see more on the cemetery.

During WWII the building was occupied by the German army. There is a plaque on the wall beside the street to commemorate the 13 patriots who were imprisoned inside.

There are now 6 apartments here. I particularly love the balcony at the front of the building. The middle one was almost ours.

I would love to see the building renovated …….. but not too much.

Porcini mushrooms

Posted on October 18, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

It is porcini season in Bagni di Lucca. They are in all the restaurants, proudly displayed in baskets.

If you drive along mountain roads you see cars parked and people scouring the forests for these delicious mushrooms. They grow well in chestnut and pine forests.

Porcini means piglet, perhaps because they look a bit like plump little piglets. They can grow to about 30 centimetres across and can weigh up to a kilo.

I have eaten risotto with porcini, pasta with porcini, fried porcini, grilled porcini and best of all fresh, raw porcini with a squeeze of lemon and black pepper. They have to be just picked for this to work well.

Autumn is here, bringing these delectable delights to eat.

This was what greeted me at my car this morning.

Circolo dei Forestieri

Posted on October 14, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Circolo dei Forestieri doesn’t mean “circle of forest workers”. It was the Foreigners’ Club years ago. The building was rebuilt in 1924 over an existing 18th century structure. It was the meeting place of visitors to Bagni di Lucca and used for gambling until 1936.

It is now a restaurant. There is a lovely big dining room inside and in summer there is outdoor dining in front of the restaurant and a delightful terrace at the back, with pretty views over the river.

Although it looks quite grand the food is very reasonably priced……and very good. I photographed my own delicious food and the lovely people at the next table kindly let me take theirs as well.

That was my caprese salad and the bread that came with it was hot from the oven.

A lemon sorbet arrived between courses.

Say hello to Giovanni and Sabina…..and have a great meal.

www.circolodeiforestieri.it

PS. Unfortunately Circolo dei Forestieri has closed. Is there anyone out there who would like to run a restaurant in Bagni di Lucca??? It would be great to see someone take it over and bring it to life again.

Many years ago the Circolo dei Forestieri was surrounded by huge trees. Fortunately the new ones are growing.

Vetteglia

Posted on October 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Vetteglia is a tiny hamlet in the San Cassiano area of Bagni di Lucca. 37 people live here. I think they were all having an afternoon nap the day I visited the village. I enjoyed a lovely walk in the afternoon sun.

The village is dominated the imposing Pratofiorito, where you can still see the Ravi del Pratofiorito (landslides) which destroyed the hamlets of Celle and Cerro.

There are great views across to neighbouring San Cassiano.

And to the villages on the other side of the valley.

The village is a jumble of well kept houses, pretty gardens and small fruit and vegetable plots.

The last of the peaches and pears for the season.

I almost missed this grey cat in his grey corner.

There are a few renovator’s delights to be seen.

Some perfectly stacked wood piles waiting for winter.

A perfect garden shed.

A pretty little church.

And it is only 40 minutes walk to San Gemignano.

Another day…. For me it was back to the top of the village for a last look across the tiny piazza at the top and back to my car.

Festa della Castagna…….in Villa Fiori Park

Posted on October 2, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The annual Chestnut Festival…..Festa della Castagna, will be held this Sunday 7th October in the park beside Villa Fiori at Ponte a Serraglio.

The local Alpini group will be providing roasted chestnuts and delicious necci. Last year I recall they served some excellent pasta fritta as well.

There will be several stands selling arts and crafts and there will be painting and drawing for children, provided by the Borgo degli Artisti.

Festivities will begin at 10.00am. Don’t miss what is sure to be a fun day.

A weekend of fun and Pinocchio in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on September 24, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca, hosted a charming festival on the weekend. The fun activities were inspired by the stories of Pinocchio, which were written in the nearby village of Collodi.

There were stalls selling Pinocchio articles, arts and crafts, food (of course), games and activities for children and street performers.