The lucky children of San Cassiano and nearby had a great day at the Campo Sportivo. Lucky for us photographer Paul Davies was on hand to take photos.
Congratulations to the organisers…it was a fun day for all concerned.
Pieve di Controne is one of my favourite villages in Bagni di Lucca. It is a little different from some of the others as it has quite a bit of flat land, rather than being perched on the side of a mountain.
There are some lovely cultivated areas.
It has an amazing church with 2 facades.
Pieve di Controne is a collection of mostly stone houses…
…with pretty gardens and fruit trees.
I am always attracted to old doors, especially green doors, and Pieve di Controne has a fine selection.
There is usually a sleepy cat or 2 in the villages.
If you visit Bagni di Lucca take the time to visit some of the mountain villages.
Between rain showers I went to see Sala, a Localita of Bagni di Lucca. To get there, follow the sign to Casabasciana from the SS Brennero. Before you get to Casabasciana there is a sign on the right pointing to Sala.
The road into Sala is lovely.
Someone has been busy chopping wood.
…arriving in Sala.
There is a serious bocce pitch…is that the correct word? It is at the entrance to the town.
Only a handful of people live in Sala, but those who do, look after their little piece of heaven. The houses are all cared for and the gardens are beautiful…come for a walk through the hamlet.
There are a couple of archways leading into the group of houses.
I found a path with a huge cherry tree, laden with almost ripe fruit.
I also found walnut trees, grapes and kiwi vines.
Going through another arch there was a happy tortoise enjoying a bath.
It reminded me a bit of Yoda.
The gardens are thriving under the obvious care of their owners. There are flowers everywhere.
There are views up to Casabasciana.
…and across to Brandeglio.
Sala is another delightful part of Bagni di Lucca. I can see why people would love to live here.
May has been a very wet month in Bagni di Lucca…and it is enough now. We long for some sunny days.
Having said that, I think these wet misty days are beautiful. See what you think.
…and from above.
The rain was so heavy for a while Ponte a Serraglio and Bagni Caldi almost disappeared.
Bagni di Lucca manages to look gorgeous whatever the weather…but some sun now please.
Between rain showers I planted the pansies on the bridge at Ponte a Serraglio.
It is raining heavily today…I hope the poor little things don’t drown.
I chose the smaller flowers this year as they put on a great show last year. Here is a reminder of what they will look like soon if the weather cooperates.
I arrived from Australia to find my daffodils have appeared on the balcony. I planted a couple of bulbs a few years ago and they have multiplied.
They are such cheery little flowers and have clearly been enjoying the rain.
Soon I will plant pansies on the bridge.
Some undergrowth has been removed from what is left of the garden around Villa Fiori in Ponte a Serraglio. A sculpture of a diving girl has been uncovered.
She is one of a group of sculptures that stood around a shallow pool, now empty and abandoned. The others have disappeared and she has lost an arm.
The neglect of this building is a crying shame…but you could do something about this. Villa Fiori is for sale. For less than €1 million it could be yours.
Spread the word, tell everyone you know. There must be someone out there with vision (and money). Bagni di Lucca is a wonderful collection of villages, famous for its spas. The area is gorgeous, with mountains, a beautiful river and the first casino in Europe, as well as the spas that need a little love and attention. While other towns and villages in Italy struggle to find a focus for regrowth, Bagni di Lucca is a treasure trove.
It just needs someone with ideas and money to bring life to some of the magnificent old buildings. We love Bagni di Lucca just the way it is, and we don’t want it to change too much, but it would be great to see more opportunities for young locals, who shouldn’t have to leave their beloved home town to find work.
The translation of I Macelli is The Slaughterhouses. I am guessing that the site of this excellent restaurant was once an abattoir. The bright yellow building sits beside a little stream behind the main commercial area of Borgo a Mozzano, the village near the Ponte della Maddalena.
The restaurant is one of our favourite places to dine, with good reason. The food is very good, the setting pleasant and the service is friendly and efficient.
To get there, drive down the one way street in the centre of Borgo a Mozzano and turn left at the sign for the restaurant.
I look forward to many delicious meals at I Macelli when I return to Bagni di Lucca very soon.
After I left Pieve Fosciana I drove a little further on to Castiglione di Garfagnana which sits at 545 metres above the Esarulo River, a tributary of the Serchio River.
The town dates back to a Roman Castra, called Castrum Leonis (Lion’s Castle), built to oversee the valley that leads to the San Pelligrino Pass. The castle was built between1170 and 1227. It became Lucca’s most important garrison in the Serchio valley. In 1390 the “Rocca” or castle was extended and towers were built.
Some of the Rocca remains and you can walk through the narrow streets of the town to the top.
There is a road around the edge of the town outside the wall, offering excellent views of the castle and the surrounding countryside.
I entered the town through the Porta del Ponte Levatoio. It was mid afternoon and the town was deserted, leaving me to wander alone.
I went up into the old castle for some gorgeous views over the town.
Coming down from the top I came across the Church of San Pietro which was built in 723 by 2 Lombard brothers, but was rebuilt in the 12th century by Bishop Guido of Lucca.
I walked on through the pretty streets as it began to rain.
I will return when the town is a bit busier, I am sure there is more to discover.
Bagni di Lucca is on the edge of the Garfagnana. The area lies between the Apennine and Apuan Alps in the upper valley of the Serchio river. It is almost entirely mountainous and heavily wooded.
It is also dotted with pretty villages, which will take years to discover. I recently visited Pieve Fosciana. It is tiny, with a cluster of houses around the church of St John Battista, one of the most ancient in Garfagnana.
Come for a little walk through Pieve Fosciana…
There are lots of narrow cobble stone laneways and pretty gardens, the usual interesting doorways and building decorations.
I was impressed with this house in particular. The residents have gone to some trouble with the facade.
The main reason for my visit to Pieve Fosciana was to try restaurant Il Pozzo. I have heard it is one of the best in Garfagnana.
They have an indoor dining area and a very big terrace. I was the first there for lunch, but it soon filled up, mostly with local workers. You know a restaurant is good when the locals arrive in number.
The restaurant prides itself on using fresh, local ingredients served in a traditional way, with a slightly modern twist.
I ordered the pasta with lobster.
Followed by guinea fowl with truffles…they were both excellent.
The service was very friendly and I could see that most of the other patrons were regulars. They also do a workmans’ lunch for a set price…I will try that next time.
If you can drag yourself away from the very good restaurants in Bagni di Lucca, try Il Pozzo, I’m sure you will like it.
Bella Bagni di Lucca 