Meet Heather from Casabasciana

20120731-074448.jpg

Heather Jarman lives in Casabasciana, one of the gorgeous mountain villages of Bagni di Lucca. In her career as an archeologist she researched the early history of agriculture. She is passionately interested in food, from growing and production to cooking and eating.

Her knowledge of food production in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana is amazing. I first met her last year when she took me along to meet a local cheese maker. We set off into the mountains and met the delightful Marzia who spent the morning showing us how to make cheese and ricotta. Click here for the full story.

20120731-062717.jpg

20120731-062747.jpg

On another adventure we went high in the mountains to a village called Lupinaia for their chestnut festival. It was one of the most delightful afternoons I have ever had, topped off with a walk back to the car along an old mule trail.

20120731-062940.jpg

20120731-063046.jpg

20120731-063156.jpg

Click here to see more of the very beautiful Lupinaia.

This year we headed off to the Slow Food soup finals in Lucca and got to try some delicious soup and listen to some great folk music. Click here to see more.

20120731-063513.jpg

I have learned how to make bread using traditional methods in a wood fired oven with Paolo after visiting his gorgeous farm in the Garfagnana. He grows farro and breeds beautiful cattle. Click here to see the gorgeous cows.

20120731-063728.jpg

20120731-063943.jpg

That’s Paolo blessing the bread as it goes in the oven.

I went with Heather to the huntsmen’s dinner in Casabasciana, where we helped the hunters eat the cinghiale (wild boar) they had caught during the season. Both the food and the company were wonderful after we had worked up our appetites with a walk around the beautiful village at sunset.

20120731-074123.jpg

20120731-074135.jpg

20120731-074200.jpg

20120731-074224.jpg

20120731-074243.jpg

Click here to see more of Casabasciana.

We went to the Lucca Wine and Food festival and met lots of local wine makers.

20120731-075148.jpg

20120731-075333.jpg

20120731-075346.jpg

And we ate some wonderful local food. Click here to see more.

20120731-075432.jpg

Quite possibly best of all she introduced me to the delightful concerts in Lucca organised by Mattia. I became a regular visitor on Tuesday and Friday nights. Click here to find out more, or check the website http://iconcertidegliangeli.com

20120731-075924.jpg

20120731-075943.jpg

20120731-075953.jpg

There is a never ending list of things to do in Bagni di Lucca and the nearby areas…..and Heather knows all about them. She organises tours for small groups to do things you would never find in a guide book. In her own words she is “Making tourism work to sustain the rural economy and the people. …you will encounter an endangered lifestyle which we don’t want to disappear.”

Visit her website for more information…..www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Meet Daniela and Mauro from Lugliano

20120630-091724.jpg

Lugliano is on top of the hill in the photo….that little bump with the tower beside it is the main part of the village. You can just see a row of houses along the ridge.

Daniela and Mauro are the parents of my lovely friend Paolo, so they were the obvious choice for me to talk to about Lugliano, the village that sits high above Ponte a Serraglio, just a few kilometres drive up the winding road behind my apartment.

Daniela and Mauro live in a beautiful house with a great garden that keeps Daniela busy.

20120630-073831.jpg

20120626-093012.jpg

They have a spectacular view over the surrounding mountains from their terrace.

20120630-074850.jpg

Mauro makes beautiful wood carvings which he sells from a pretty little shop in Ponte a Serraglio.

20120630-074958.jpg

20120630-075009.jpg

20120630-075020.jpg

20120630-075039.jpg

20120630-075051.jpg

20120630-075111.jpg

Mauro and Daniela met in the village, not very far from where they now live. I took a walk along the ridge where Lugliano sits and up the hill to the little cluster of houses there.

20120630-075538.jpg

The church at the start of the village.

20120630-075605.jpg

Keeping watch over Lugliano.

20120630-075639.jpg

A beautiful view.

The little road winds up the hill to the main part of the village.

20120630-083002.jpg

Come for a walk around Lugliano.

20120630-083031.jpg

20120630-083044.jpg

20120630-083055.jpg

20120630-083115.jpg

20120630-083127.jpg

20120630-083146.jpg

20120630-083156.jpg

20120630-083209.jpg

20120630-083223.jpg

20120630-083235.jpg

20120630-083250.jpg

20120630-083317.jpg

20120630-083331.jpg

20120630-083343.jpg

20120630-083405.jpg

20120630-083422.jpg

20120630-083435.jpg

20120630-083609.jpg

The views over La Villa, Ponte a Serraglio and beyond are wonderful.

20120630-083659.jpg

20120630-083725.jpg

20120630-083746.jpg

20120630-083802.jpg

20120630-083814.jpg

Lugliano looks good from below as well.

20120630-091951.jpg

Say hello Mauro and Daniela at their shop in Ponte a Serraglio in the summer months. It is beside the Bar Italia.

20120630-092905.jpg

Meet Tina from Ponte a Serraglio

Tina was one of the first people I met when I came to Ponte a Serraglio, lucky me. She has been a great help to us in all things, in fact, our lives here would have been much more difficult if not for Tina. She knows everything worth knowing about Bagni di Lucca….and she speaks perfect English.

20120620-062649.jpg
Tina’s mother was from Bagni di Lucca, and her father came from Piacenza, but she was born in New York. Her father died when she was young, and at 12 years of age she came with her mother to live at Ponte a Serraglio in 1949, in the lean years after the war. I asked her to tell me some of what she remembers of her life in the village.

Tina arrived after the war, but memories were still fresh then. There was a lot of fighting in the area. Remnants of the Gottica Line can still be seen nearby.

The Ponte a Serraglio piazza was damaged during World War 11. The retreating Germans destroyed the bridge and a temporary one was put in by the Allied Troops. Tina’s grandmother told of an incident involving the over enthusiastic use of dynamite to widen the road to allow tanks through, which resulted in the near destruction of several buildings in the square. The front of our building also suffered some damage, but was able to be repaired.

What is now the Bar Italia and the Bridge Hotel were rebuilt in 1951 – 1952 along with the new bridge. Things slowly improved in the 1950s when buildings were repaired and painted and by the 1960s Ponte a Serraglio was a thriving town.

There were 3 grocery stores, 2 fruit and vegetable shops, 2 butchers, a pharmacy, 2 hairdressers and 2 barbers, a hardware store, 2 bakeries, a fabric store and one that sold sewing machines, a cigarette and cigar store, a shoe store, shoe repairers and bicycle repairs and a bank.

As well as the 2 bars, which are still operating, there were 3 osterias to provide meals and places for people to gather and socialise.

At the time ready to wear clothing was still not popular and there were a few seamstresses in the village. Not everyone had a well equipped kitchen and people would take their roast dinners and cakes and biscuits to the bakeries to be cooked after the bread was done for the day. One of the cooks was particularly good with biscuits and quite a few of hers never made it home.

There was a police station near Villa Fiori which supplied a source of eligible men for the village. New recruits were quickly snapped up by the local girls.

I asked Tina what happened to all the shops and businesses as there are very few left. She said it was a combination of things. Before the war families had lots of children. Tina told me that the school she attended wasn’t big enough to hold all the children and some of them were sent to a nearby building for their lessons. The school building is still there, but is now empty and in need of serious renovation. It would make a great apartment building.

During the 1950s and 1960s there were fewer babies born. Most families had only 1 or 2. This coupled with young people slowly moving away to find better paid work than was offered in the few factories in the area, meant that the population slowly declined and the businesses couldn’t survive.

Tina remembers that there was still a horse and carriage to take people to the station and to make deliveries when she was young. One of the first cars to appear after the war was a Fiat Cinquecento, which must have caused a bit of excitement.

Foreigners, like us, are now moving into the area and buying the empty houses and apartments. While this may not be the perfect solution, I think is better than having the village die. It is good to see the houses lived in and gardens growing again. Our little piazza is constantly full with locals and people from all over the world. We have English, Australian, Norwegian, Brazilian, Finnish, American, Dutch and lots of other nationalities chattering to each other in the bar and I think it is great. It is still an authentic Italian village and I don’t think any of the foreigners want to change anything.

I would love to have seen Ponte a Serraglio in its heyday, it must have been a lively, fun place. I think it is delightful now and buying our apartment near the bridge has been a wonderful thing, allowing us to spend several months a year in the village.

If you see Tina at Bar Italia, say hello. She often sits with a group of lovely Ponte ladies.

The photo below was taken in early 2018. The next one is an earlier photo.

Tina

20120620-071248.jpg

A close shave at Ponte a Serraglio

20120614-083234.jpg

Valter is the barber in Ponte a Serraglio, but he is so much more. Every day there is a line of gentlemen sitting in his chairs, but I’m not sure they are waiting for a shave or a haircut. I think they are there to discuss and solve the problems of the world.

Jim regularly visits Valter when he is in Ponte a Serraglio for a haircut and some manscaping.

If you are a gentleman in need of a trim, call in to see Valter, he does a great job, and you might just solve some serious issues.

20120614-083214.jpg

I’m sure some of these chaps have been lining up at Valter’s for years….long may it continue.

PS. It is with regret that I have report that Valter has retired and it seems nobody was prepared to take over his shop, so there is no longer a barber in Ponte a Serraglio.

Meet Oriano and Pina from Pieve di Monti di Villa

We met 2 of Pieve di Monti di Villa’s hundred or so inhabitants when we were trying to raid a cherry tree on the side of the road.

20120609-101817.jpg

20120609-101837.jpg

Oriano appeared and with his trusty umbrella he pulled a branch down for us.

20120609-101934.jpg

Soon his wife Pina joined us and told us a little about their pretty village. Oriano was born in the village and Pina was born in Genova. She was sent to Pieve as a child during the war. She found Genova a little noisy when she went back and eventually settled in the village and met Oriano.

20120609-102657.jpg

Many of the residents moved away to America, Australia and Canada in tough times in the 20th century. People are slowly coming back to enjoy the peaceful mountain life.

Come for a walk through the village to see why.

20120609-103043.jpg

20120609-103151.jpg

20120609-103222.jpg

20120609-103239.jpg

20120609-103330.jpg

The church dedicated to St Julia was built in the 12th century, rebuilt in 1446 and remodelled between 1760 and 1766. Only the apse belongs to the original structure.

The narrow streets wind slowly down the side of the mountain.

20120609-103718.jpg

20120609-103739.jpg

20120609-103802.jpg

20120609-103816.jpg

20120609-103939.jpg

There are some lovely old doorways.

20120609-104015.jpg

20120609-104039.jpg

20120609-104054.jpg

20120609-104115.jpg

20120609-104136.jpg

20120609-104152.jpg

And some interesting locking devices.

20120609-104259.jpg

Things grow well in Pieve.

20120609-104434.jpg

20120609-104500.jpg

20120609-104514.jpg

20120609-104534.jpg

20120609-104557.jpg

20120609-104613.jpg

20120609-104636.jpg

There are lovely details.

20120609-104821.jpg

20120609-104902.jpg

20120609-104921.jpg

20120609-105001.jpg

20120609-105117.jpg

There is a pretty bar, which wasn’t open the afternoon we were there. Another visit is needed.

20120609-105223.jpg

We spotted a small resident out for a walk.

20120609-105326.jpg

Wandering through the villages of Bagni di Lucca is delightful…especially when you get to meet lovely people like Oriano and Pina.

In every village I have been to I have met people who have been happy to stop and have a chat. Don’t be afraid to say Buongiorno, you never know where it may lead.

Meet Gianni and Daniela from Il Moro

20120530-121035.jpg

Gianni and Daniela have created a beautiful agriturismo in the hills above Ponte a Serraglio. It is accessible by car via the road to Colle, or is a delightful walk through chestnut forest from the village.

20120530-121235.jpg

20120530-121415.jpg

20120530-121456.jpg

The views from here are divine.

20120530-121548.jpg

20120530-121637.jpg

20120530-121721.jpg

It is late spring and the olives and figs are appearing on the trees.

20120530-121814.jpg

20120530-121839.jpg

20120530-121853.jpg

The roses are looking gorgeous.

20120530-121925.jpg

As well as running the agriturismo Gianni has a hobby. He likes to build roads and houses. He has 2 projects on the go. The first one we went to is a beautiful house he has built from scratch on a level terrace above his own house.

20120530-122221.jpg

He has done an amazing job. It is not finished yet, but it is going to be magnificent.

20120530-122318.jpg

As well as the main house, there is a smaller building, where Gianni keeps bees and processes the honey.

20120530-122422.jpg

The bees are still working busily on the acacia honey, Gianni showed us what will be happening soon.

20120530-122647.jpg

I hope I am still around when the honey is ready.

The next project involved a drive on a road that Gianni is still working on to a gorgeous stone house he is renovating above La Villa. I want this house!!!!!

20120530-122858.jpg

There is the main house and a smaller building beside it which could become a work shed or an extra bedroom for guests.

20120530-124731.jpg

The main house will eventually have 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a huge kitchen, living room and a cellar at the back with a little cave for keeping cheese and other delights.

20120530-124917.jpg

20120530-125007.jpg

20120530-125138.jpg

The smaller building sits above an old cistern.

20120530-125230.jpg

Gianni has renovated the building beautifully, keeping the traditional style where possible.

20120530-125355.jpg

I love the stone, tiles and the wonderful ceilings. Somebody is going to get a wonderful place to live.

Gianni doesn’t have a website, but if you want some more information you can email him at ….agriturismoilmoro3@alice.it

Bagni di Lucca votes for a new mayor

Yesterday, 6th May, and today the people of Bagni di Lucca have been voting for their new Sindaco (mayor). I can’t vote, but I walked up to our nearest polling station the see what was going on. Sezione No 3 is at the Bagno Bernabo.

20120507-022212.jpg

The view of Ponte a Serraglio is just gorgeous, especially on a glorious sunny day, like today.

20120507-022331.jpg

20120507-022509.jpg

The lovely old spa has been restored recently and we are still waiting to see it open. I went inside, but only a couple of rooms were open.

20120507-022720.jpg

One of the local carabinieri was on hand to watch over the proceedings.

20120507-022907.jpg

20120507-022924.jpg

The electoral lists.

Voting finishes today. I wonder who will win.

20120507-023113.jpg

20120507-023201.jpg

20120507-023236.jpg

20120507-023331.jpg

20120507-023357.jpg

20120507-025612.jpg

I’ll let you know as soon as I find out.

UPDATE…….

Massimo Betti, the handsome fellow in the first photo is our new mayor. He is from Bagni di Lucca and has a pharmacy in La Villa. He is a well known and respected business man who knows and loves Bagni di Lucca. Let’s hope he can bring some positive changes to the villages.

Meet Jayne and Ilario from Del Sonno Restaurant

20120428-084650.jpg

One of our favourite places to eat in Bagni di Lucca is Del Sonno. The food is great and Jayne and Ilario are delightful….what more could you want?

I know I am boring, but I almost always order the same thing, saltimbocca. It literally means “jump in the mouth”. If you taste it you will know why. The dish consists of thinly sliced veal, topped with prosciutto and sage leaves.

I usually have grilled vegetables as a side dish.

They also do a great pizza and when I can force myself not eat the saltimbocca I have a gorgonzola and prosciutto pizza….or a salame piccante….or quatro stagione…..

20120428-092732.jpg

The crust is thin and crispy and the toppings, just right.

I have, on occasion, been known to have pannacotta or tiramisu. Then I walk home to Ponte a Serraglio.

Jayne allowed me into the kitchen last year and showed me how she makes her saltimbocca. If you click here you will find the post.

Say hello to Ilario if you go to Del Sonno. He is always there with a smile and he knows everything about Bagni di Lucca. Jayne will be in the kitchen making my saltimbocca.

Del Sonno Ristorante….146/148 Viale Umberto 1, La Villa

Ph. 0583 805080

www.ristorantedelsonno.it

Meet Livio, he helps to keep Bagni di Lucca beautiful

20120423-070247.jpg

I see Livio regularly in Ponte a Serraglio, La Villa and Fornoli with his trolley and his birch broom.
He looks after us very well, keeping our streets clean.

I admired his birch broom one day and he very kindly offered it to me. His job would be great on a fine sunny day, but not so much fun on cold, windy ones.

Say hello to Livio next time you see him, he likes a chat.