Cucina povera…Garfagnana style

Posted on February 4, 2013 by Debra Kolkka

It has become fashionable to serve Cucina Povera, which roughly translates as “peasant food”. In tough times people had to do the best they could with humble ingredients (Italians are very good at this)…some they grew themselves and some they foraged for in the forests.

The Garfagnana area has seen some lean years in the past and the people here were very resourceful in their food preparation. On the weekend I went to the small, and very pretty village of Sassi, near Molazzana, in the mountains above the Serchio Valley to a restaurant called Il Totto, which specialises in the cucina povera of the area.

The dining room was very cosy on a cold, winter day.

We were early, but there were a couple of diners already enthusiastically tucking in to the local delights.

We began with antipasti…onions, farro, bean salad, salumi and the delicious, crisp thin bread often served in the area.

My co-eaters were at Il Totto especially for the chestnut polenta, and a platter soon arrived.

Along with the chestnut polenta came “ossi salati”, which literally translates as salted bones. Once most of the meat has been removed, pork bones are soaked in brine for several days before being boiled. It would have to be one of the least photogenic meals I have seen, but I can assure you, it was delicious.

I was not, however, delighted with the chestnut polenta. My 2 friends went on to eat nearly 3 platters of it. I have decided it is an acquired taste, one I can happily spend the rest of my life not acquiring. The old gentleman at the table beside us agreed with me. When he was a small child he had to eat it every day, and never wants to see it again.

Instead, I was served some regular polenta with cinghiale, wild boar…and it was very good.

Il Totto is a delightful restaurant. The charming owner/chef, Signore Nesti, is helped by his friendly family members. It is well worth the drive on some narrow roads to get there.

Telephone before you go to make sure they are open. 0583 760061 or 338 5854243

daltotto@libero.it

Meet Patrizia from La Villa

Posted on December 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Patrizia runs the wonderful fruit and vegetable shop in La Villa. She will select the best produce for you. Ask her for the perfect melon for lunch and she will find it. Which oranges are the best for juice…..she will tell you. Which peaches are ready to eat now…..she knows.

Look for her shop in the centre of La Villa, opposite the tiny piazza in Via Umberto1.

Pomegranates

Posted on November 26, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Baby pomegranates were growing when I first arrived in Italy in September and now they are ready to eat…..another reason to love autumn.

Pomegranates are rich in vitamin C, vitamin B5, potassium and fibre (if you eat the seeds) and are the latest so called, super food.

You could drink the juice, or use the seeds in salads, knowing that it is doing you good, or you could do these things just because pomegranates are delicious.

LOCAL NEWS

There is to be a live nativity in Monti di Villa at 3.00pm on December 9. It will commence at the church in Monti di Villa and move through the streets of the village. It will be followed with food and drinks…….I wish I was going.

There is to be a bus taking people from La Villa. Please check for details at the information centre in La Villa.

Lunch at Ristorante Silvio La Storia a Tavola

Posted on November 21, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Ristorante Silvio La Storia a Tavola came highly recommended, so on lovely autumn Sunday we headed out of Bagni di Lucca on the Brennero road. The tiny hamlet of Pianosinatico is not far past Cutigliano, on the way to Abetone.

When you see this memorial to fallen soldiers, you know you have arrived in Pianosinatico.

It was a hazy autumn afternoon, but you can see some of the colour in the mountains.

The entrance to the restaurant doesn’t give much of an idea of the delights to be found inside.

We thought it was just a bar, but we went inside and asked for a table for 4 and we were directed through to the restaurant.

We left ourselves in the hands of the very helpful waiter and were delighted with the dishes that arrived……and kept on coming. We began with antipasto.

The next one doesn’t look much and the photo is a but fuzzy, but the potato with a truffle sauce was heavenly.

Best of all were the fresh, raw porcini mushrooms. We were instructed to squeeze lemon on them, followed by a little black pepper……perfect.

Next came porcini mushroom soup.

Then rice with capsicum and a light and delicious pecorino sauce.

Crepes with ragu.

Gnocchi with truffle sauce.

We were fairly full by now, so much so that I forgot to photograph the next dish…..pasta with eggplant and 2 types of onion….ooops.

Despite being stuffed we managed dessert…..pannacotta with fruit.

And tiramisu.

Take a drive through the gorgeous mountains around Bagni di Lucca and stop for lunch at Silvio la Storia a Tavola….you won’t be disappointed.

www.ristorantesilvioabetone.com

Porcini mushrooms

Posted on October 18, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

It is porcini season in Bagni di Lucca. They are in all the restaurants, proudly displayed in baskets.

If you drive along mountain roads you see cars parked and people scouring the forests for these delicious mushrooms. They grow well in chestnut and pine forests.

Porcini means piglet, perhaps because they look a bit like plump little piglets. They can grow to about 30 centimetres across and can weigh up to a kilo.

I have eaten risotto with porcini, pasta with porcini, fried porcini, grilled porcini and best of all fresh, raw porcini with a squeeze of lemon and black pepper. They have to be just picked for this to work well.

Autumn is here, bringing these delectable delights to eat.

This was what greeted me at my car this morning.

Circolo dei Forestieri

Posted on October 14, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Circolo dei Forestieri doesn’t mean “circle of forest workers”. It was the Foreigners’ Club years ago. The building was rebuilt in 1924 over an existing 18th century structure. It was the meeting place of visitors to Bagni di Lucca and used for gambling until 1936.

It is now a restaurant. There is a lovely big dining room inside and in summer there is outdoor dining in front of the restaurant and a delightful terrace at the back, with pretty views over the river.

Although it looks quite grand the food is very reasonably priced……and very good. I photographed my own delicious food and the lovely people at the next table kindly let me take theirs as well.

That was my caprese salad and the bread that came with it was hot from the oven.

A lemon sorbet arrived between courses.

Say hello to Giovanni and Sabina…..and have a great meal.

www.circolodeiforestieri.it

PS. Unfortunately Circolo dei Forestieri has closed. Is there anyone out there who would like to run a restaurant in Bagni di Lucca??? It would be great to see someone take it over and bring it to life again.

Many years ago the Circolo dei Forestieri was surrounded by huge trees. Fortunately the new ones are growing.

Meet Jayne and Ilario from Del Sonno Restaurant

Posted on April 28, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

One of our favourite places to eat in Bagni di Lucca is Del Sonno. The food is great and Jayne and Ilario are delightful….what more could you want?

I know I am boring, but I almost always order the same thing, saltimbocca. It literally means “jump in the mouth”. If you taste it you will know why. The dish consists of thinly sliced veal, topped with prosciutto and sage leaves.

I usually have grilled vegetables as a side dish.

They also do a great pizza and when I can force myself not eat the saltimbocca I have a gorgonzola and prosciutto pizza….or a salame piccante….or quatro stagione…..

The crust is thin and crispy and the toppings, just right.

I have, on occasion, been known to have pannacotta or tiramisu. Then I walk home to Ponte a Serraglio.

Jayne allowed me into the kitchen last year and showed me how she makes her saltimbocca. If you click here you will find the post.

Say hello to Ilario if you go to Del Sonno. He is always there with a smile and he knows everything about Bagni di Lucca. Jayne will be in the kitchen making my saltimbocca.

Del Sonno Ristorante….146/148 Viale Umberto 1, La Villa

Ph. 0583 805080

www.ristorantedelsonno.it

Dinner with the huntsmen of Casabasciana

Posted on March 19, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The name Casabasciana probably comes from the Roman settler called Bassius, who built his house here. The town is perched on the side of the hill about 4 kilometres up from Fabbriche di Casabasciana on the SS12.
My friend and I were invited by Heather Jarman from Sapori e Saperi to join the dinner put on by the Squadra di Cacciatori , the hunting team from Casabasciana, an offer too good to refuse, especially since the proceeds of the evening are to be used to renovate a building in town to provide help for some of the older residents.
We went up to the village in the late afternoon to discover the delights of Casabasciana.
The streets of the village are narrow, winding and steep.

There are lots of lovely old buildings to see.

I spotted a small statue of the Madonna in an alcove opposite the main church.

She was standing on an interesting base.

We wandered to the outskirts of the town where the buildings end and some of the farming area still exists.

We met Giovanni with his tractor loaded with wood.

He has lived all his life in Casabasciana and proudly showed us the house that belonged to his grandfather which he has renovated for his daughter.

He keeps a very neat wood pile.

Spring is coming to Casabasciana.

We met Heather who showed us some of the things we missed.

The communal washing area, which is still used.

Her garden shed.

Another little shrine.

Beautiful building decoration.

The oldest, and apparently the best water supply.

The lovely little church beyond the village.

The fresco inside the old church.

We were on the edge of town to see the sunset.

We went to the main square which looked beautiful at night.

The town is tiny, but it has a bar and an excellent shop which stocks everything.

We had a cup of tea in Heather’s lovely kitchen.

Her house has lots of gorgeous rooms.

Finally it was time for dinner.

Tommaso and Anna Rosa serving the crostini.

First course.

Patiently waiting for the next delicious course.

The pasta.

The chingiale arrives.

The vegetables are served by Dalida.

Renato carving the porchetta.

My porchetta.

Alfredo enjoying his stinco (shin bone)

Pannacotta for dolce.

And as is that wasn’t enough, there were frittelle di San Giuseppe to follow.

If you get the chance to attend any of these local dinners, do so, you will love it.

Take a look at Heather’s website and blog. She knows all about the local festivals.

www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Casabasciana from above.

Meet Paola and Massimo (and Toby) from Anchiano

Posted on March 14, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

This is Toby.

Anchiano is actually part of the nearby town of Borgo a Mozzano, but lovely Paola and Massimo are regulars at Il Monaco at Ponte a Serraglio, so I have made them honorary Bagni di Luccans.

Paola invited me for lunch recently with a promise that she would show me her pretty village. I know that Paola is a great cook (she also gives wonderful cooking lessons) so I was delighted to accept the invitation.

I’ll show you lunch first, then their beautiful house and the village.

Paola at work in the kitchen.

They have done a wonderful job renovating 2 old houses in Anchiano. They live in one and rent the other occasionally.

After lunch we headed off with Paola as our guide to discover Anchiano. I shouldn’t have waited so long to go to Anchiano, it is quite lovely.The village is not far off the road which goes between Lucca and Bagni di Lucca.

It is a very pretty little village with beautiful views of the surrounding area from some of the higher parts of the town.

We wandered through the town, heading slowly up to the church on the top of the hill.

First stop was the old washing area which once would have been a very busy part of the village.

The water pressure is quite something.

It is a fun place for the children to play.

The streets are narrow and winding, but mostly flat so the walking is easy.

As is the case in all of these villages, there are always interesting things to discover.

Toby met a friend along the way.

The church looks quite impressive from below.

The war memorial near the church.

The village from the church grounds.

Just below the church is a part of the Gottica Line, with fortifications left over from WWII.

The cemetery below the church is beautifully kept.

The residents come regularly to tend the graves and water the plants.

Everyone has their own water bottle.

Soon spring will come and fill the village with colour.

The wisteria vine will soon be covered with gorgeous lilac blossoms.

If you would like to arrange cooking lessons with Paola email her at …..paola.mori@alice.it.

Paola is a lot of fun and her cooking lessons are great. If you greet her in English don’t be surprised if she responds with a lovely Scottish accent. Her father was born in Barga, the most Scottish town in Italy.

Paola’s ducks said goodbye as we were leaving.

Information for locals…. There is to be a dinner dance at the Hotel Milano on 23rd March. That sounds like fun!

Lunch at Cavallino Bianco in Benabbio

Posted on March 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

I had heard that there was a good restaurant in Benabbio so on a quiet winter Sunday I made my way to the hilltop village. Benabbio is about 5 kilometres uphill from La Villa. Take the road towards Abetone, turn right at the Benabbio sign and follow the winding road.

The road to Benabbio.

There are some lovely buildings in Benabbio and some spectacular views, even in winter.

It was easy to find the restaurant. It is right on the tiny piazza in the centre of the village

The restaurant was full for Sunday lunch….a good sign.

The menu was not written, but the very cheerful owner told me what was on offer for the day. I started with delicious antipasto.

These little pillows of deliciousness are pasta fritta. It is a bread dough that is fried rather than baked.

For those who don’t like pigeons, here is your revenge, risotto al piccione. I do like pigeons, but I pushed my guilt aside.

I was also given some home made pasta to try…..and it was very good.

I watched some wonderful looking dishes being delivered and eaten very quickly at nearby tables. I clearly need to come back to try some of the other choices.

Dessert was too good to refuse.

There is a downstairs bar as well as the upstairs restaurant.

Here is the lovely man who served me. I didn’t catch his name. I really will have to go back.

Cavallino Bianco, Piazza S. Maria, 13. Benabbio
http://www.ilcavallinobianco.com
(+39) 0583 804089

Bella Bagni di Lucca

A beautiful village in Tuscany

Tag Archives: food