Cocciglia

Legend has it that Cocciglia was built on land owned by a Roman settler named Cocilius. Only about 80 people now live in the village. It was once an important fortified town which guarded the road leading to Controneria, further up the mountain.
There is a short road to the village from the Brennero Road. On the way is a small church with an impressive bell tower.

20121010-052545.jpg

The village comes into view just around the corner from the church.

20121010-052625.jpg

20121010-052645.jpg

There is also a view across to Pallegio.

20121010-052734.jpg

There is a walking path opposite the church which appears to lead to the village above.

20121010-052820.jpg

I took the easy option and drove up the road to the tiny parking area just outside Cocciglia. Come for a walk through the little village.

20121010-052937.jpg

20121010-052955.jpg

20121010-053013.jpg

20121010-053030.jpg

20121010-053043.jpg

20121010-053123.jpg

20121010-053158.jpg

The church is right at the top of the village.

20121010-053252.jpg

20121010-053324.jpg

This is the stone over the door to the church.

20121010-053359.jpg

On the way up to the church is this quaint statue.

20121010-053437.jpg

I found the next colourful image on the front of a house.

20121010-053517.jpg

I saw no people on my walk, but the village is obviously lived in. There are pretty gardens and the houses are in good repair.

20121010-053654.jpg

20121010-053731.jpg

The village is no longer isolated, but I can’t help thinking about the lives of people who lived here centuries ago. This place is tiny and life must have been tough. I hope the residents from the past occasionally had time to sit back and enjoy the view.

20121027-063435.jpg

Pallegio

Pallegio has ancient origins. It was once a fortified stronghold guarding the Controneria area nearby. The village is not far from the Brennero Road towards Abetone.

20121018-084921.jpg

It is a sleepy little village with 132 inhabitants. Come for a wander with me.

20121027-084130.jpg

20121027-084147.jpg

20121027-084201.jpg

Like all of Bagni di Lucca’s mountain villages, there are wonderful views.

The narrow streets have many delights.

20121027-084353.jpg

20121027-084410.jpg

20121027-084423.jpg

20121027-084446.jpg

20121027-084458.jpg

20121027-084509.jpg

20121027-084530.jpg

20121027-084540.jpg

20121027-084615.jpg

20121027-084629.jpg

20121027-084642.jpg

20121027-084708.jpg

20121027-084904.jpg

20121027-084920.jpg

20121027-084937.jpg

20121027-084951.jpg

20121027-085015.jpg

20121027-085049.jpg

Soon it is back to the car park and time to say goodbye to Pallegio.

20121027-085145.jpg

On the way back to the Brennero I found a road to the left and found what I think is the oratory of S.Maria della Quercia.

20121027-085321.jpg

20121027-085335.jpg

20121027-085409.jpg

A little further on is a lovely wooded area and I found another renovator’s delight……there is a never ending supply of them in these parts.

20121027-085522.jpg

20121027-085542.jpg

20121027-085559.jpg

Can you see yourself getting to work on this one?

Making necci

Chestnuts have been an important part of the diet in the Appenine and Apuan regions in northern Tuscany for centuries. Particularly in times of war and famine, chestnuts saved people from starvation.

Necci are a type of pancake made from chestnut flour. They are simply made by mixing chestnut flour with water (250 grams of flour to 1 cup water). The batter is mixed until smooth and slightly thicker than a normal crepe batter.

Each area has a slightly different recipe. Sometimes a little oil and salt is added, or rosemary.

There are several ways to cook the necci. At a couple of chestnut festivals I have seen them cooked between 2 cast iron discs with long handles over a flame. A little olive oil is placed on the flat disc and spread with a potato cut in half, then a small quantity of batter is placed on the disc and spread thinly, and the other disc is put on top. It isn’t as easy as it sounds, you need just the right amount of oil and heat or the pancake sticks to the disc and makes a horrible mess.

20121212-090557.jpg

20121212-090621.jpg

20121212-090636.jpg

20121212-090718.jpg

Once browned on both side they are spread with ricotta or nutella and rolled up…and eaten.

20121212-090832.jpg

20121212-090846.jpg

20121212-090857.jpg

At a food festival in Lucca we saw a very interesting way of cooking necci. The batter was placed on hot, flat stones covered with chestnut leaves and stacked on top of each other.

20121212-091247.jpg

20121212-091301.jpg

20121212-091322.jpg

20121212-091333.jpg

20121212-091352.jpg

20121212-091406.jpg

20121212-091419.jpg

This method also proved to be effective, and delicious.

Look for necci at food festivals in the area, or if you are in Lucca, go to Via Buia and look for Pizza da Felice where you can buy necci, along with delicious pizza and cecina, the chickpea pancakes popular in the area.

Click here to see a gorgeous chestnut festival in Colognora and here for an equally fabulous one in Lupinaia.

Riolo

The road to Riolo is one of my least favourite in Bagni di Lucca. It is extremely narrow and winding, with little room to pass if you happen to come across another car. The entrance to the village is also narrow. I suggest parking in the area at the bottom of the village and walking up.

20121027-090301.jpg

The sign at the entrance to the village suggests a low speed. I think this would be too fast.

20121027-090354.jpg

The village is a pretty collection of houses, with some lovely decoration, and of course, there are wonderful views from the village. Like all of the villages of Bagni di Lucca Riolo has something different and special to offer visitors.

20121027-090550.jpg

20121027-090609.jpg

20121027-090623.jpg

20121027-090636.jpg

20121027-090648.jpg

20121027-090707.jpg

20121027-090720.jpg

20121027-090739.jpg

20121027-090753.jpg

20121027-090808.jpg

20121027-090820.jpg

20121027-090833.jpg

20121027-090940.jpg

20121027-091033.jpg

20121027-091124.jpg

20121027-091140.jpg

20121027-091201.jpg

20121027-091218.jpg

20121027-091237.jpg

20121027-091301.jpg

On the way back to the car I spotted a tiny mouse. The photo is a bit blurry, but the mouse was very small and in a hurry to get away from me.

20121027-091812.jpg

I have heard that the road to Riolo was badly damaged in the recent heavy rains. I hope everything will be back to normal soon.

Meet Patrizia from La Villa

Patrizia runs the wonderful fruit and vegetable shop in La Villa. She will select the best produce for you. Ask her for the perfect melon for lunch and she will find it. Which oranges are the best for juice…..she will tell you. Which peaches are ready to eat now…..she knows.

20121011-062305.jpg Patrizia La Villa

20121011-062415.jpg Patrizia La Villa

20121011-062438.jpg Patrizia La Villa

20121011-062507.jpg Patrizia La Villa

Look for her shop in the centre of La Villa, opposite the tiny piazza in Via Umberto1.

20121011-062622.jpg Patrizia La Villa

Pomegranates

Baby pomegranates were growing when I first arrived in Italy in September and now they are ready to eat…..another reason to love autumn.

20121019-111153.jpg

20121019-111220.jpg

20121019-111306.jpg

20121022-065836.jpg

Pomegranates are rich in vitamin C, vitamin B5, potassium and fibre (if you eat the seeds) and are the latest so called, super food.

You could drink the juice, or use the seeds in salads, knowing that it is doing you good, or you could do these things just because pomegranates are delicious.

LOCAL NEWS

There is to be a live nativity in Monti di Villa at 3.00pm on December 9. It will commence at the church in Monti di Villa and move through the streets of the village. It will be followed with food and drinks…….I wish I was going.

There is to be a bus taking people from La Villa. Please check for details at the information centre in La Villa.

Weekly photo challenge…..green

I don’t usually take part in the WordPress weekly photo challenge, but I couldn’t pass this one up as green is my favourite colour and I have this lovely collection of green doors that I have found all over Bagni di Lucca.

I love the wonderful old doorways in the villages of Bagni di Lucca……especially the green ones.

20121027-093051.jpg

20121027-093142.jpg

20121027-093213.jpg

20121027-092955.jpg

20121027-093240.jpg

20121027-093255.jpg

20121027-093342.jpg

20121027-093355.jpg

20121027-093416.jpg

20121027-093429.jpg

20121027-093443.jpg

20121027-093500.jpg

20121027-093520.jpg

20121027-093538.jpg

20121027-093642.jpg

20121027-093657.jpg

20121027-093839.jpg

20121027-093854.jpg

20121027-093912.jpg

20121027-093925.jpg

20121027-093944.jpg

20121027-093957.jpg

20121027-094042.jpg

20121027-094253.jpg

20121027-094313.jpg

20121027-094326.jpg

20121027-094347.jpg

20121027-094407.jpg

20121027-094432.jpg

20121027-094452.jpg

20121027-094555.jpg

20121027-094609.jpg

20121027-094626.jpg

20121027-094649.jpg

20121027-094707.jpg

20121027-094724.jpg

20121027-094843.jpg

20121027-094857.jpg

20121027-094912.jpg

20121027-094936.jpg

20121027-094954.jpg

20121027-095106.jpg

20121027-095120.jpg

20121027-095318.jpg

20121027-095334.jpg

20121027-095350.jpg

20121027-095406.jpg

20121027-095438.jpg

20121027-095455.jpg

20121027-095511.jpg

I think I will have to paint my door green.

Casoli

To get to Casoli it is necessary to cross a tiny, narrow bridge. Turn right if driving from Bagni di Lucca, from the Brennero at the Casoli sign and take this cute bridge.

20121027-080943.jpg

20121027-081012.jpg

Houses were built around a castle at top of a hill and became the village of Casoli. Some remnants of the castle still stand.

At the beginning of the town is a monument to poet Francesco Puccini, who was also known as Geremia. He was born in Casoli in 1686.

20121027-081558.jpg

The nearby Oratorio della Madonna all Fontana is well preserved.

20121027-081732.jpg

The washing area beside the church is lovely.

20121027-081820.jpg

Beside the washing area is one of the old mule tracks which entered the village.

20121027-081958.jpg

There is a particularly interesting portal at the top of the track, dating from 1496.

20121027-082110.jpg

Come for a walk through the village, starting at the church.

20121027-082221.jpg

20121027-082256.jpg

20121027-082314.jpg

20121027-082340.jpg

20121027-082404.jpg

20121027-082422.jpg

20121027-082447.jpg

20121027-082502.jpg

20121027-082520.jpg

20121027-082536.jpg

20121027-082557.jpg

20121027-082617.jpg

20121027-082633.jpg

20121027-082653.jpg

20121027-082716.jpg

20121027-082747.jpg

20121027-082825.jpg

20121027-082950.jpg

20121027-083011.jpg

20121027-083033.jpg

The village has quite a good looking bar near the car park.

20121027-083208.jpg

Take a last look up at the village.

20121027-083248.jpg

Then it is back down the narrow, winding road to the bridge.

20121027-083605.jpg

Look out for the renovator’s delight opposite the bridge.

20121027-083659.jpg

Meet Catia from Giocondo in Lugliano

I joined Heather Jarman’s group recently to visit the farm of Catia and Maurizio Citti in Lugliano. Giocondo has 20 hectares of land with chestnut trees, olive trees and various crops. The main attraction was their herd of Cinta Senese pigs.

Cinta Senese is an ancient breed of Tuscan pig. They have been raised in the area for centuries. After almost becoming extinct, the breed is now being bred again. Unlike normal pigs which are usually intensively bred, Cinta Senese are kept in large outdoor pens and fed a diet as close as possible to their preferred diet of acorns and food from the forest floor.

They are prized for their excellent flavour. Catia makes her own prosciutto, sausage and other pork products. Once you try salumi from Cinta Senese you will be spoiled forever.

20121020-090045.jpg

20121020-090353.jpg

As well as the pigs, there are cows and sheep bred for their milk to make cheese, and donkeys just for fun.

20121020-090508.jpg

20121020-090525.jpg

Catia also grows apples, pears, figs, strawberries, raspberries and chillies to make jams and preserves.

20121020-091138.jpg

While Catia was preparing our delicious lunch I wandered around the forest on the property.

20121020-091437.jpg

20121020-091713.jpg

20121020-091733.jpg

The views from the property are spectacular.

20121020-091815.jpg

Lunch was prepared using only local products. First we had porcini mushrooms with polenta and pecorino cheese made by Catia.

20121020-092152.jpg

20121020-092207.jpg

Next was prosciutto, salami and a mature pecorino with onion jam and chillie jam, and crostini with lardo and sausage with stracchino.

20121020-092628.jpg

20121020-092643.jpg

20121020-092715.jpg

Catia had also made a cake for us, which she served with a blueberry sauce.

20121020-092829.jpg

Take a look at Giocondo’s website to see all the products they produce. I don’t know when they sleep.

www.agriturismogiocondo.com

20121027-062543.jpg

Thank you Catia (right) and Heather for a fun day.

www.sapori-e-saperi.com