Guest post by Belinda

Posted on November 13, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Lovely Belinda, who is currently living at Ponte a Serraglio, has written a post for us about a walk she did in August with guides Franz Della Mea and Francesco Foschi. Francesco took the beautiful photos of the scenery along the way.

A long walk to Lago Nero…by Belinda

Luckily the August day we chose for our long walk to Lago Nero was not too hot. Our destination is quite high in the mountains so we had to be careful to dress appropriately, you can never be sure of the weather in the mountains and it can change suddenly.

Our journey began at the base of Prato Fiorito. I was promised a long walk and my guides certainly gave it to me. Our uphill walk lasted for 5 hours.

Lago Nero is close to Abetone and we passed gorgeous scenery along the way. Sometimes looking over the edge towards Orrido di Botri was a bit ‘hairy’.

Admiring the view

The upward journey seemed endless at times, but we stopped often to take in the magnificent views and to eat our Mars bars for energy.

A standout tree

More stunning scenery

We finally reached Lago Nero. The lake definitely looks black…hence the name. We were very close to Abetone, in fact we could see the cable cars and ski run tracks.

Happily on a downhill bit towards the lake

The lake is small and at quite a high altitude, 1,730 metres elevation. It is in the Provence of Pistoia in northern Tuscany.

The lake comes into view

Beautiful Lago Nero

Guide number 3, Rino, cooling off in the lake

We really deserved our lunch at the rifugio where we dined on cheese, bread and red wine. These rifugios are dotted through the area and do a great job for a small donation.

After an hour rest we struggled to get our tired legs moving for the 4.5 hour return walk…the only way home.

On the way back to Prato Fiorito we took in different details of the landscape. For instance,the many variety of mushrooms and colours…and found it fun hunting down a bag full of the small bright yellow ones which are a flavoursome ingredient with the right pasta. We also noticed patches of ‘dug-up ground and rustled leaves, evidence of chingali, but luckily the wild boar were nowere to be seen in the daylight.

The 9.5 hour walk was a bit gruelling at times but fabulously rewarding. A return visit is in order for next summer.

There are lots of amazing walks in the mountains around Bagni di Lucca. I will tell you soon of some others I have done.

The slow bells

Posted on November 9, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Slow bells toll when someone dies in our village. The bells ring to announce the funeral and when the body is taken from the church for the last journey.

The bells rang slowly recently for Oriana, one of the lovely old ladies who lived in Ponte a Serraglio. I met her soon after I arrived in the village. She was always ready with a smile and a chat.

She was part of a group of oldish ladies who would gather in the morning for coffee and a good old chinwag. Several of them are still at the bar every day and there is a cheery “Buongiorno” for me. I haven’t seen Oriana for some time and it appears that she spent the last days of her life in hospital.

There used to be quite a large group of old gentlemen at the bar every morning where they would solve the problems of the world for a few hours, before strolling off home for lunch. This group has dwindled to two or three. I find it very sad to watch them grow old and then disappear one day.

I went to the church to farewell Oriana. She will be missed.

I think it is a lovely tribute to a treasured member of the community. The slow bells allow time to think about the life that has been lived, and recall happy memories.

Halloween

Posted on November 1, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Halloween is a good excuse for a party. Annalisa threw a fun dress-up party at Bar Italia in Ponte a Serraglio.

There was an interesting cast of characters.

Please note the headless doll in the photo below.

Later in the evening we headed off to Borgo a Mozzano for the famous party which ends in fireworks at the Ponte a Maddelena.

The streets were very crowded, the lighting patchy, so my photos mostly didn’t turn out well.

There were some great costumes. I was particularly impressed by a fellow with an axe through his head and several strings of sausages around his neck. No photos…he got away too quickly.

We shuffled along with the rest of the crowd towards the bridge at the appointed hour. As we arrived a figure swathed in white was being carried to the top of the bridge. Her head fell off on the way, appropriate under the circumstances. She was duly put back together and thrown off the bridge…a sign for the fireworks to get under way.

The audience was enthralled.

I have been wanting to attend the celebrations at Borgo a Mozzano for many years. I have now done so and will be content with that one visit.

Eat at Villa Aurora

Posted on October 21, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Villa Aurora is in the most beautiful setting. There is an amazing view of Prato Fiorito and Pieve di Controne. On a fine sunny day it is great to sit outside on the spacious terrace. The owner proudly served us some of the most delicious prosciutto I have ever eaten. Their pasta is great. My friend Carla had the saltimbocca. Agostino and I enjoyed the perfectly cooked trout. I believe the pizzas are good here too…next time. Villa Aurora…Fabbriche di Casabasciana. From the SS12, follow the signs towards Casabasciana. The restaurant is not far along the road. Phone…(39) 0583 85600

Come to the chestnut festival at Ponte a Serraglio

Posted on October 10, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

The annual chestnut festival is to be held at Ponte a Serraglio in the park beside Villa Fiori on Sunday 19th October.

Here are some photos from past events. There will be chestnuts roasting, necci to eat, activities for the children and things to buy.

If the weather is bad it will be held the following Sunday.

Cembroni

Posted on October 7, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Cembroni is a little hamlet that is part of San Cassiano. Take the road from La Villa and follow the signs for San Cassiano. Just before the town you will see the sign for Cembroni on the left.

The drive up along the tree lined roads is quite lovely.

Cembroni is tiny. There is a little tangle of narrow steeets, stone houses, leafy lanes and gardens.

On a quiet sunny day I met some lazy kitty cats.

Instead of the usual green doors, I found mostly brown ones. I did manage to track down a couple of green ones.

The last flowers and fruits of summer put on a fine show.

I was most impressed by the collection of chimneys and roof tiles.

I would like to take this old railing home and install it on my balcony.

Of course the views from Cembroni are excellent.

Just a handful of families live permanently now in the village. In summer the population swells when ex-residents return to enjoy the peace and quiet in the summer sun. If you are seeking a tranquil refuge from the world, perhaps you should head to Cembroni.

Finally, a clean up

Posted on September 28, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

The Ponte della Maddalena is the most recognisable structure in our area. It is a 900 year old treasure.

It is possible to see in this photo some of the build up of debris on the buttresses of the bridge. We have had lots of rain over the last 12 months and the river has been carrying lots of rubbish along with it and quite a bit has gathered around the base of the bridge.

Finally, the clean up has begun. The river has been diverted and the tree branches and other bits and pieces are being removed.

It is good to see the Ponte della Maddalena being looked after. I never tire of looking at this amazing bridge every time I pass. I often stop and walk across and enjoy the view from the top as well. Let’s hope it is here for another 900 years.

Francis has written about the clean up too on his blog. Click here to see his report.

Crazy weather

Posted on September 23, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Summer in Bagni di Lucca has been unusually cool and wet. The crazy weather continues. One day it is warm and sunny.

The river is calm and low.

Then we get driving rain and storms and the river turns into a raging torrent, much more likely in winter.

There was a huge hail storm in Florence the other day that left the streets looking as though they were covered with snow…crazy stuff.

What will autumn and winter bring?

Crasciana Alta

Posted on September 19, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

I recently visited the lovely village of Crasciana. Some friendly locals told me that I must visit Crasciana Alta, the upper area of the village. I didn’t have time that day, but a few days ago I returned and took a walk through this beautiful villlage.

Crasciana Alta is a short drive ( about 3 kilometres) up hill from Crasciana. Take the road to the left just before you enter Crasciana.

You will come to a fork in the road.

I would suggest parking nearby and taking the time to look through the pretty cemetery here. The entrance is through the gate beside the little chapel.

Take the road to the right of the cross to enter Crasciana Alta. There is a little square right at the entrance to the village, with a pretty sculpture and view.

The village is on the side of a mountain, the streets are steep and narrow. They branch off in all directions…take them all.

There are lots of interesting details to be found.

The last of the summer flowers put on a display for me.

As usual the church has nabbed one of the best positions in town…high above the village.

Behind the church is another small cemetery.

There is also a lovely open area offering excellent views.

There is a pretty path down from the top.

Look back towards the campanile.

I came upon a group of gentlemen having a chat in the piazza who told me I should leave Ponte a Serraglio immediately and move to Crasciana Alta. Funnily enough, most of the people I meet in the mountain villages say the same thing. They say it is more tranquil, the air is better and life is good. I love the fact that they are proud of their little parts of the world and I can understand why they are so happy there.

On the way down the mountain I stopped for one more look at Crasciana Alta.

If you visit Bagni di Lucca take the time to see the mountain villages…you won’t be sorry.

Mario Lena, a special Ponte person

Posted on September 15, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Mario Lena, poet at Ponte a Serraglio and remarkable previous Mayor of Bagni di Lucca, recently celebrated entering his 90th year. Maura Bertolozzi and Agostino Rieter organised a marble plaque to be hand carved in Pietrasanta with one of Mario’s poems. It was installed at Il Monaco, where Mario likes to have his breakfast in the morning. Our current Mayor, Dr Massimo Betti, officiated the ceremony to unveil the plaque.

Mario Lena was a respected scientist and teacher as well as a very popular mayor for 10 years from 1960.

Friends of poetry and Mario gathered for the unveiling of the poem.

Take the time to read the poem next time you are at Il Monaco and say hello if you see him. He is a very friendly and delightful man.

A few days later a second plaque was unveiled at the edge of Agostino’s property, beside a seat, where visitors are invited to rest a while, enjoy the poem and the magnificent view of Mario’s favourite place, Bagni di Lucca.

Writers from Great Britain, Ireland, France, Germany, Holland and Italy have been drawn to Bagni di Lucca for centuries…Byron, Shelley, the Barrett Brownings and many more have spent time in the beautiful villages, no doubt taking inspiration from their surroundings, just like Mario Lena.

Agostino has had the brilliant idea to establish a “Poetry Path” and connect 17 sites around Ponte a Serraglio, Bagni Caldi, Il Paretaio, Bagno alla Villa and La Villa where famous writers lived or visited. People will be invited to walk to the sites, admire the view and read about the writers.

A proposal has been put to the Foundatione Michel de Montaigne and if approval is given, anyone interested in helping to get the idea off the ground will be invited to get involved.

We are hoping the Mayor and the Council of the Comune will give full cooperation. I will keep you up to date with developments.

I think something that encourages locals and visitors alike to walk around the area and appreciate the spectacular scenery and learn something about our literary residents and visitors is a wonderful idea.

Bella Bagni di Lucca

A beautiful village in Tuscany

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