Cascio and chestnuts

October and November are great months for autumn festivals in the mountains. I attended several this year and one of my favourites was the one in Cascio.

Cascio is a tiny village in the Garfagnana. It is of early medieval origin situated on the ancient road linking Modena and Lucca. These days it is a sleepy village basking in the Tuscan sun. It has some wonderful ancient building and they are well preserved.

Cascio chestnut festival

Hundreds of people descended on the village on the day of the chestnut festival. The little square was full of stalls selling all sorts of interesting things.

People gathered on the grassy field waiting for the chestnuts to be roasted and the food prepared.

Below the village there was another area for food preparation…and eating. The cooks were kept very busy making the pancakes and putting the plates together.

Above the village beside the castle sweets were served. I stopped on the way to admire the view.

Cascio chestnut festival

The old castle looks wonderful. I will go back one day to explore further.

Cascio chestnut festival

Cascio chestnut festival

As I was about to leave a group of musicians and dancers put on a fine show and I stayed to watch.


The Cascio festival is one of the best I have attended. It was a perfect sunny autumn day and everyone had a great time.Look out for it next year. I’m sure you will love it.

Cascio chestnut festival

Cascio chestnut festival

Scacciaguai

I love this word. It means good luck charm, or chase / sweep your troubles away. This is a scacciaguai.

Scacciaguai

It is on the wall just around the corner from the entrance to a restaurant named Scacciaguai in Barga.

The restaurant is run by 2 brothers and I think it is very good. I have been a few times and have had delicious food and good service each time.

Scacciaguai

Scacciaguai restaurant

Scacciaguai

Now for the food.

ScacciaguaiScacciaguaiScaggiaguaiScacciaguaiScacciaguaiScacciaguaiThey very kindly offer instructions on how to sweep away your troubles. Make the horns with your index finger and your little finger and poke the eyes of the Scacciaguai.

Scacciaguai

I should be OK now.

Scaccuaguai,

Scacciaguai

Via di Mezzo 25,

Barga. (39) 0583 711368

www.scacciaguai.it

For more on scacciaguai read My Kitchen Witch.

Festa della Zucca

Autumn is a time for festivals in our area. Many villages celebrate the season with festivals honouring the local produce. I recently attended the Festa della Zucca (pumpkin festival) in Piegaia, not far from Bagni di Lucca.

Festa della ZuccaThere were lots of people there enjoying the many stalls selling interesting things to do with pumpkins and other delights.

Festa della zucca

There were pumpkins in all shapes and sizes.

Delicious food was available. We chose penne with pumpkin and creme brûlée with pumpkin.

Festa della zucca

Festa della zucca

Festa della zucca

It is great to see these festival well attended by people of all ages. Everyone joins in and has a great time. I went with Heather from Sapori e Saperi. She knows all the best places to go.

 

 

Gorgeous Ghivizzano

Not far from Bagni di Lucca is the lovely hilltop town of Ghivizzano. At the gateway to the magnificent Garfagnana, the town dates back to the 900s.

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The town is dominated by the castle on top of the hill. The arched entrance at lower end of town takes you through covered alleyways and through winding cobblestone streets up to the church and castle.

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Of course, the views are beautiful from the high position.

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We wandered slowly upwards.

We were there on the day of a festival in the courtyard in front of the castle…a perfect place to hold an archery competition in full costume.

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It is possible to climb the tower at the castle, so of course we did.

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Keep an eye out for festivals at Ghivizzano. The castle is a great venue and it really gives you an idea of life in different times.

Eremo di Calomini

 

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This beautiful white sanctuary set into the edge of a rocky cliff just past Gallicano, has been around since about 1,000AD. The church is carved into the rock and has been expanded over the centuries to include the presbytery and the sacristy. The double colonnaded facade was added in the 18th century.

The Calomini hermits took care of the sanctuary until 1868 and now it is in the care of the Lucca Capuchin Fathers. They have done a great job… take a look.

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The wooden doors are beautifully carved.

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The interior is beautiful.

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You can clearly see that the church has been carved into the rock.

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The view from the front of the hermitage is wonderful.

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To get to the Hermitage, take the road to Gallicano, then look for the signs to Vergemoli and La Grotta del Vento. The sign for the Hermitage is about 1 kilometre past the end of Gallicano. It is not always open, so it is a good idea to phone ahead. 39 0583 767003.

There is a parking area beside the sanctuary. Look for the excellent restaurant just a short walk from the parking area where they serve delicious meals, especially local trout.

www.eremocalomini.com

 

Local news…

There will be a celebration on Saturday 23rd August for the conclusion of the exhibition of textiles, Nodi della Memoria, at the Casino in Ponte a Serraglio. Fesivities begin at  17.00 with the opening of the exhibition; at 21.00 there will be a shop and at 22.30 there will be music and refreshments on the terrace.

To book, please phone Tina: 0583 805815 (9.00 – 12.00) or Gemma: 349 8499704

 

The azalea festival at Borgo a Mozzano

Every year, on a day in April, Borgo a Mozzano’s streets are filled with azaleas…a great time to visit this quaint nearby town. It wasn’t the best day with overcast skies and threatening rain, but I went anyway.

There were displays in the streets.

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…lots of flowers for sale. Some of the rhododendrons will be living under the hazelnut trees at Casa Debbio.

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Of course there was food for sale.

…and other things to buy.

The pool and surrounds in Borgo are looking great.

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The pruned trees on the main street are springing to life.

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On the way home I stopped on the Borgo side of the river for a different view of the Ponte della Maddelena. Even on an overcast day the bridge looks great.

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Take our wine bus to Fattoria del Teso

Last year we had Sunday lunch at the very beautiful Fattoria del Teso, a vineyard and winery near Monte Carlo. Here is a photographic reminder of the day. See the full post here.

The clever people from Fattoria del Teso have organised a bus to pick you up in Lucca, take you to the winery for lunch and a vineyard tour and bring you back to Lucca.

The bus will leave ( a minimum of 8 people required) every Wednesday from Piazza Santa Maria at 1.00pm, arrive at Fattoria del Teso at 1.30pm, leave for Lucca at 3.30pm and arrive in Lucca at 4.00pm. The bus will be available until October.

The cost is 45 euro per person. To reserve a place, please phone (39) 0583 462620 or (39) 340 7806967. email: winebuslucca@gmail.com
There is time to take public transport from Bagni di Lucca to meet the bus. If you go early you could take a walking tour of Lucca with Paola Moschini (moschinipaola@yahoo.com) Transport can be arranged from Bagni di Lucca if necessary.
Fattoria del Teso is a great place to visit and their wines are excellent…take the bus…you will love it and you won’t have to drive.

Verde Mura Lucca

This annual garden show is on in Lucca right now. It started today and continues tomorrow, Saturday 5th April and Sunday 6th April. If you love looking at beautiful plants this is the place to be.

I went today and the rain cleared just as the gates opened. I was one of the first in, so I had the place almost to myself. Come for a little wander with me.

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My first stop was this stand with metal ornaments for your garden. I love their birds.

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There was an endless variety of beautiful plants.

Of course there was food.

…and lots of other things I had no idea I needed, until I saw them.

If you are close to Lucca this weekend you shouldn’t miss this event.

www.verdemura.it

Al Laghetto…the food is good

Al Laghetto sits beside the river on the way to Fabriche di Vallico. We were there not long after the disastrous storm which caused lots of damage in the area, so it the setting wasn’t as picturesque as usual.

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The restaurant was full for Sunday lunch when we arrived. Fortunately there was room for us. I love the rustic setting.

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You need to have a big appetite with you…take a look at the delicious food.

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Al Laghetto is a great place for Sunday lunch. The atmosphere is lively and a lot of fun.

The mechanical cow

I prefer my milk straight from the cow. When I was a child a local dairy farmer delivered fresh milk to us in a bucket. He poured the milk into bowl and when it had settled Mum would spoon the cream off the top and pour it into bottles.

I can still remember the taste…a far cry from the stuff we buy at the supermarket now. It is pasteurised, homogenised, skimmed, vitamins added etc, etc, and it no longer tastes like milk.

Luckily there is a place nearby where it is possible to buy milk straight from the dairy…the mechanical cow, or latteria as it is called.

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The little hut is in the car park at the Penny Market in Borgo a Mozzano.

For 20 cents you can buy a bottle and €1 gets you a litre of fresh milk.

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There is even a photo of the dairies the milk comes from.

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I think it is a great idea and I have become a regular at the mechanical cow.