Meet Heather from Casabasciana

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Heather Jarman lives in Casabasciana, one of the gorgeous mountain villages of Bagni di Lucca. In her career as an archeologist she researched the early history of agriculture. She is passionately interested in food, from growing and production to cooking and eating.

Her knowledge of food production in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana is amazing. I first met her last year when she took me along to meet a local cheese maker. We set off into the mountains and met the delightful Marzia who spent the morning showing us how to make cheese and ricotta. Click here for the full story.

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On another adventure we went high in the mountains to a village called Lupinaia for their chestnut festival. It was one of the most delightful afternoons I have ever had, topped off with a walk back to the car along an old mule trail.

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Click here to see more of the very beautiful Lupinaia.

This year we headed off to the Slow Food soup finals in Lucca and got to try some delicious soup and listen to some great folk music. Click here to see more.

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I have learned how to make bread using traditional methods in a wood fired oven with Paolo after visiting his gorgeous farm in the Garfagnana. He grows farro and breeds beautiful cattle. Click here to see the gorgeous cows.

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That’s Paolo blessing the bread as it goes in the oven.

I went with Heather to the huntsmen’s dinner in Casabasciana, where we helped the hunters eat the cinghiale (wild boar) they had caught during the season. Both the food and the company were wonderful after we had worked up our appetites with a walk around the beautiful village at sunset.

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Click here to see more of Casabasciana.

We went to the Lucca Wine and Food festival and met lots of local wine makers.

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And we ate some wonderful local food. Click here to see more.

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Quite possibly best of all she introduced me to the delightful concerts in Lucca organised by Mattia. I became a regular visitor on Tuesday and Friday nights. Click here to find out more, or check the website http://iconcertidegliangeli.com

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There is a never ending list of things to do in Bagni di Lucca and the nearby areas…..and Heather knows all about them. She organises tours for small groups to do things you would never find in a guide book. In her own words she is “Making tourism work to sustain the rural economy and the people. …you will encounter an endangered lifestyle which we don’t want to disappear.”

Visit her website for more information…..www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Lovely Lucca

Lucca is one of the loveliest towns in all of Italy, and it is just 25 kilometres from Bagni di Lucca. It is our nearest large town.

Lucca was founded by the Etruscans and became a Roman colony in 180BC. The rectangular grid system of the roads in the historical centre preserves the original Roman plan. The town is surrounded by a wall which expanded with the growing town. The current configuration dates from the 16th century. It remains intact and now is the outstanding feature of the town.

The wall is 4.2 kilometres around and it is possible to walk or cycle along the top. It is beautiful at any time of the year.

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If you are lucky enough to be in Lucca in mid March you will see the beautiful magnolias in bloom in the Corso Garibaldi.

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Later in spring the huge white magnolias arrive.

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Giacomo Puccini was born in Lucca and there is a long history of music in the town. There are concerts on almost every night and there are several music festivals throughout the year.

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Puccini sits in the Piazza Citadella in front of the house where he was born. It is now open as a museum.

Lucca is a city of churches. At one time there were 100 churches…..quite a lot remain, including the beautiful San Michele on the site of the original Roman forum.

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The Piazza Anfiteatro was left behind when the amphitheatre that once stood on the site was removed, leaving and oval space surrounded by houses. Now the beautiful space forms a town centre filled with outdoor dining and several festivals throughout the year.

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From Bagni di Lucca to Lucca is a pretty 30 minute drive beside the Serchio River on the SS12. It is also possible to take the Lazzi bus which leaves from La Villa and stops at Ponte a Serraglio and Fornoli along the way. The trip takes about 50 minutes to the last stop inside the walls at Piazza Verdi. There is a train from Fornoli which takes about 25 minutes.

Meet Daniela and Mauro from Lugliano

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Lugliano is on top of the hill in the photo….that little bump with the tower beside it is the main part of the village. You can just see a row of houses along the ridge.

Daniela and Mauro are the parents of my lovely friend Paolo, so they were the obvious choice for me to talk to about Lugliano, the village that sits high above Ponte a Serraglio, just a few kilometres drive up the winding road behind my apartment.

Daniela and Mauro live in a beautiful house with a great garden that keeps Daniela busy.

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They have a spectacular view over the surrounding mountains from their terrace.

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Mauro makes beautiful wood carvings which he sells from a pretty little shop in Ponte a Serraglio.

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Mauro and Daniela met in the village, not very far from where they now live. I took a walk along the ridge where Lugliano sits and up the hill to the little cluster of houses there.

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The church at the start of the village.

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Keeping watch over Lugliano.

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A beautiful view.

The little road winds up the hill to the main part of the village.

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Come for a walk around Lugliano.

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The views over La Villa, Ponte a Serraglio and beyond are wonderful.

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Lugliano looks good from below as well.

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Say hello Mauro and Daniela at their shop in Ponte a Serraglio in the summer months. It is beside the Bar Italia.

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Play tennis in Bagni di Lucca

There is a tennis club in La Villa, the main village of Bagni di Lucca. The courts operate all year. In winter there are huge covers erected to keep out the rain and cold.

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I have been here since early February and it has been fun to watch these trees turn green with the arrival of spring.

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Now the covers are off for the summer.

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The courts are clay and some friends played there recently and said they were excellent.

The courts are for hire, with or without your own equipment.
Phone 0583 805342 for information.

Meet Tina from Ponte a Serraglio

Tina was one of the first people I met when I came to Ponte a Serraglio, lucky me. She has been a great help to us in all things, in fact, our lives here would have been much more difficult if not for Tina. She knows everything worth knowing about Bagni di Lucca….and she speaks perfect English.

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Tina’s mother was from Bagni di Lucca, and her father came from Piacenza, but she was born in New York. Her father died when she was young, and at 12 years of age she came with her mother to live at Ponte a Serraglio in 1949, in the lean years after the war. I asked her to tell me some of what she remembers of her life in the village.

Tina arrived after the war, but memories were still fresh then. There was a lot of fighting in the area. Remnants of the Gottica Line can still be seen nearby.

The Ponte a Serraglio piazza was damaged during World War 11. The retreating Germans destroyed the bridge and a temporary one was put in by the Allied Troops. Tina’s grandmother told of an incident involving the over enthusiastic use of dynamite to widen the road to allow tanks through, which resulted in the near destruction of several buildings in the square. The front of our building also suffered some damage, but was able to be repaired.

What is now the Bar Italia and the Bridge Hotel were rebuilt in 1951 – 1952 along with the new bridge. Things slowly improved in the 1950s when buildings were repaired and painted and by the 1960s Ponte a Serraglio was a thriving town.

There were 3 grocery stores, 2 fruit and vegetable shops, 2 butchers, a pharmacy, 2 hairdressers and 2 barbers, a hardware store, 2 bakeries, a fabric store and one that sold sewing machines, a cigarette and cigar store, a shoe store, shoe repairers and bicycle repairs and a bank.

As well as the 2 bars, which are still operating, there were 3 osterias to provide meals and places for people to gather and socialise.

At the time ready to wear clothing was still not popular and there were a few seamstresses in the village. Not everyone had a well equipped kitchen and people would take their roast dinners and cakes and biscuits to the bakeries to be cooked after the bread was done for the day. One of the cooks was particularly good with biscuits and quite a few of hers never made it home.

There was a police station near Villa Fiori which supplied a source of eligible men for the village. New recruits were quickly snapped up by the local girls.

I asked Tina what happened to all the shops and businesses as there are very few left. She said it was a combination of things. Before the war families had lots of children. Tina told me that the school she attended wasn’t big enough to hold all the children and some of them were sent to a nearby building for their lessons. The school building is still there, but is now empty and in need of serious renovation. It would make a great apartment building.

During the 1950s and 1960s there were fewer babies born. Most families had only 1 or 2. This coupled with young people slowly moving away to find better paid work than was offered in the few factories in the area, meant that the population slowly declined and the businesses couldn’t survive.

Tina remembers that there was still a horse and carriage to take people to the station and to make deliveries when she was young. One of the first cars to appear after the war was a Fiat Cinquecento, which must have caused a bit of excitement.

Foreigners, like us, are now moving into the area and buying the empty houses and apartments. While this may not be the perfect solution, I think is better than having the village die. It is good to see the houses lived in and gardens growing again. Our little piazza is constantly full with locals and people from all over the world. We have English, Australian, Norwegian, Brazilian, Finnish, American, Dutch and lots of other nationalities chattering to each other in the bar and I think it is great. It is still an authentic Italian village and I don’t think any of the foreigners want to change anything.

I would love to have seen Ponte a Serraglio in its heyday, it must have been a lively, fun place. I think it is delightful now and buying our apartment near the bridge has been a wonderful thing, allowing us to spend several months a year in the village.

If you see Tina at Bar Italia, say hello. She often sits with a group of lovely Ponte ladies.

The photo below was taken in early 2018. The next one is an earlier photo.

Tina

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The inauguration of San Michele Arcangelo in Benabbio

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While I was enjoying myself at the archery competition in La Villa another important event was taking place high above Benabbio. Morena from the Borgo Artisti went along and took some photos for us.

There was a Castello by Lupo Lupari on the original site of the village of Benabbio, above where the village now stands. The ruins of the castle are still there.

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The small church beside the Castello has been restored and people gathered to inaugurate the building.

It was a hot day and it is a long walk up that hill. A lucky few got a ride up.

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Some managed the walk.

Everyone moved into the restored church.

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There were photo boards of the restoration process.

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It took a lot of work to bring the church back to life.

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San Michele Arcangelo.

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The stone floor is original.

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The architect who supervised the restoration and the local historian spoke, then it was time for the priest to bless the church.

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It was hot in there.

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Soon it was time for everyone to be outside for refreshments.

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People of all ages were there to celebrate.

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Finding a spot in the shade was a good idea.

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Man’s best friend is always welcome.

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There is a cemetery beside the church and in 2007 – 2011 students from the university of Pisa began excavating the graves. Victims of a cholera epidemic were hastily buried and 26 skeletons have been found so far. Work will begin again soon.

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Next time you are in Benabbio, take a walk up the hill to the restored church…try it on a cool day.

Thank you Morena for giving me the details of this occasion and for taking lots of photos for us.

Medieval archery in Bagni di Lucca

On Sunday 17 th June the annual Palio Della Balestra was held in La Villa. The archery competition took place in the grounds of the beautiful Villa Ada, up the hill behind the village of La Villa.

It is a good excuse for people to dress up in gorgeous medieval costumes and shoot arrows at targets…..or just watch other people shoot arrows at targets. Lots of fun was had by all.

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One of the handsome young knights had trouble doing his hair given that he was wearing rather large gloves. Fortunately one of his mates helped out.

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That is much easier to fit under a helmet.

There were some serious archers.

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Arrows were checked and removed from the targets.

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Scores were discussed.

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There were flowers to be presented to winners.

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There was a display of medieval food preparation.

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There were weapons to be discussed.

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Meanwhile there was a little market in La Villa.

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After the first round of the competition the participants were joined by drummers and other musicians for a parade into town.

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The drummers were excellent.

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Look at this gorgeous young drummer.

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Actually they were all gorgeous.

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There were also bagpipes.

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Here is a last look at the handsome young knight.

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Then it was time for lunch before the next round of competition……but by then it was hot and I went home.

When you visit and town or village make sure you check with the information centre to see what festivals are on….you wouldn’t want to miss one.

Thank you to Ilario (see comments below) for letting me know that Bagni di Lucca’s crossbow team is the champion team in Italy. I told you there were some serious archers there.

Click here to see the 2013 event.

A close shave at Ponte a Serraglio

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Valter is the barber in Ponte a Serraglio, but he is so much more. Every day there is a line of gentlemen sitting in his chairs, but I’m not sure they are waiting for a shave or a haircut. I think they are there to discuss and solve the problems of the world.

Jim regularly visits Valter when he is in Ponte a Serraglio for a haircut and some manscaping.

If you are a gentleman in need of a trim, call in to see Valter, he does a great job, and you might just solve some serious issues.

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I’m sure some of these chaps have been lining up at Valter’s for years….long may it continue.

PS. It is with regret that I have report that Valter has retired and it seems nobody was prepared to take over his shop, so there is no longer a barber in Ponte a Serraglio.

Vico Pancellorum, all the way to the top

We had lunch again at the wonderful Buca di Baldabo in Vico Pancellorum. It was a beautiful day and after lunch we ventured into new territory when we headed uphill from the restaurant.

The name Vico Pancellorum may have come from ‘panis celorum’ – heavenly bread, but more probably from a type of grass, ‘panicellum’ which grew in the area. The town is ancient and now has a population of only about 120 inhabitants.

Come for a walk to the top of the village.

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We walked back to the car through beautiful chestnut trees.

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The birds were singing, wildlfowers line the road and the air is heavenly. What more could you wish for?

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Click here to see the other post on Vico Pancellorum which talks about the delicious food at Buca di Baldabo and the lower part of the village.

There is an official website for Vico Pancellorum…vicopancellorum.toscana.it