Abandoned

Posted on December 16, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

At the meeting point of the roads from Gombereto, Vetteglia, Montefegatesi and San Cassiano is an abandoned church…la Chiesa del Colle.

At some time it must have been a popular refuge for those travelling between the villages. Now it is crumbling and being taken over by the surrounding forest.

There is a path on the right of the church which must come from the villages below.

Behind the church is a pretty path leading through the trees to who knows where. I can see that it must have been a shady place to rest or perhaps to have a picnic.

If only this old chestnut tree could talk.

Wouldn’t it be wonderful to see these old buildings restored?

Sad news at Ponte a Serraglio

Posted on December 11, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

The news Kiosk at Ponte a Serraglio is a very important part of our little community. Olga, who owns it, is a delight. She is always smiling and has been a great help to visitors to our village.

I sadly have to report that she is leaving soon. The kiosk is for sale and it will close next week. I really hope that Olga is able to sell the business. We need it at Ponte. Is there anyone out there who would like to buy the kiosk??

Here is Olga when she took over the business a couple of years ago.

This is last week. It is great to see Graziano as well. He has been very unwell and it is good to see him back on track.

Good luck Olga on the next stage of your life. We will miss you at Ponte.

Italy Magazine is once again holding their blogger awards for blogs about Italy. I would love it if you could nominate Bella Bagni di Lucca. The blog won the “Best single travel post” last year and lots of readers came to the blog as a result. It would be fun to do well again this year.

Click here to go to the nomination page. I will let you know if the blog makes the short list.

Cascio and chestnuts

Posted on December 6, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

October and November are great months for autumn festivals in the mountains. I attended several this year and one of my favourites was the one in Cascio.

Cascio is a tiny village in the Garfagnana. It is of early medieval origin situated on the ancient road linking Modena and Lucca. These days it is a sleepy village basking in the Tuscan sun. It has some wonderful ancient building and they are well preserved.

Hundreds of people descended on the village on the day of the chestnut festival. The little square was full of stalls selling all sorts of interesting things.

People gathered on the grassy field waiting for the chestnuts to be roasted and the food prepared.

Below the village there was another area for food preparation…and eating. The cooks were kept very busy making the pancakes and putting the plates together.

Above the village beside the castle sweets were served. I stopped on the way to admire the view.

The old castle looks wonderful. I will go back one day to explore further.

As I was about to leave a group of musicians and dancers put on a fine show and I stayed to watch.

The Cascio festival is one of the best I have attended. It was a perfect sunny autumn day and everyone had a great time.Look out for it next year. I’m sure you will love it.

Cider by Chris

Posted on December 3, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

My friend Chris Buxton has a lovely little cottage in Colle, above Ponte a Serraglio.

This is Chris…I’ll let him tell you the cider story.

At a lovely late September barbecue, looking over an orchard teeming with fruit, missing my English pub and the real ales and ciders, I wondered what is done with all the apples…not much it seems…and no one makes or drinks cider…what a waste.

My friend, Super Mario, as I call him, found the owner, who said I could help myself to the apples. Others knocked on my door and Mario Morotti offered me the apples below his vineyard. If only I had known how steep and how far below!

It looked as though I had passed the point of no return. Thankfully some Ponte people offered their assistance and cider production was underway…with some extra help from Luna.

There was a bit of research, a bit of borrowing equipment from friends and neighbours and some advice from local wine makers.

…some supervision by Luna.

I won’t bore you with the details, but there’s not an awful lot more to do than get the juice from the apples and let nature take its course.

The end result? Some weak, some strong, some bottled clear and fizzy, some the way traditionalists like it, natural and cloudy.

It has been fun tasting it, sharing it…

…but alas it is not to everyone’s taste.

Thank you Chris for sharing your tale of cider. I hope there is some left when I get back to Bagni di Lucca.

Signs of the times

Posted on November 29, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

My lovely friend Chris Buxton came upon this scene while getting lost in the hills. I love it. Learning all the road signs nearly drove me nuts when I was studying for my Italian drivers’ licence, but this is a wonderful collection.

2 events in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on November 26, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Talented local artist Morena Guarnaschelli will be exhibiting her latest work at Gabrielli Center at Ponte a Serraglio in conjunction with Andrea’s La Via Interiore and Borgo degli Artisti.

Morena will exhibit 9 water colours inspired by her trip to the Holy Land 2 years ago. The title INSIEME has a double meaning…through art we can see Hebrew and Muslim side by side.

Morena is also offering a Zentangle Course…doodling while meditating…on Friday, 5.30pm and Saturday 3.00pm. Call her on 320 1107330 if you would like to take part.

The second event is the annual dinner of Borgo degli Artisti. Everyone is welcome and they will present the 2015 calendar of events.

I am sure both events wil be well attended…have fun.

Pizza and more at dalle Padella alla Brace

Posted on November 23, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

The friendly man from Pio X at Bagni Caldi has opened a new restaurant at Chifenti.

We arrived early one evening and were the first there, giving us time to look around. It is bright and colourful inside and the pizza oven was burning brightly.

We were able to watch our pizza dough being prepared.

The pizzas were great. They have a thicker base than at other places in the area. I like both, thick, and thin and crispy. Our toppings were delicious.

Next time I will try the pasta.

dalle Padella alla Brace

Via del Brennero, 15

Chifenti.

0583 1798188

Then and Now…Villa Ada

Posted on November 17, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Villa Ada is the 16th century residence of the De’Nobili family. It is set in a beautiful park, which is still used occasionally for events such as the archery competition.

It is still possible to see how elegant it must have been with its lovely covered walkway down to the village. I can imagine what a cool, shady place it must have been on a hot summer day.

You can see Villa Ada in this 1905 photo of La Villa…it is just below the row of cypress trees on the hill.

The photo below was taken in 1908.

It was still looking good 1937.

Villa Ada has belonged to the Comune since 1975. Work has been done to preserve it, but it needs new owners to love and care for it…any takers?

It looks OK from a distance, but as you get closer you can see that it is beginning to deteriorate.

The marble sculpture, The Nymph of the Spa and another statue were in the entrance, but the nymph now resides in the Comune building. I don’t know what happened to the other one.

The grounds must have been very beautiful. It wouldn’t take too much to restore the gardens.

Bagni di Lucca is full of places like this. Is there anyone out there with lots of money?

Guest post by Belinda

Posted on November 13, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Lovely Belinda, who is currently living at Ponte a Serraglio, has written a post for us about a walk she did in August with guides Franz Della Mea and Francesco Foschi. Francesco took the beautiful photos of the scenery along the way.

A long walk to Lago Nero…by Belinda

Luckily the August day we chose for our long walk to Lago Nero was not too hot. Our destination is quite high in the mountains so we had to be careful to dress appropriately, you can never be sure of the weather in the mountains and it can change suddenly.

Our journey began at the base of Prato Fiorito. I was promised a long walk and my guides certainly gave it to me. Our uphill walk lasted for 5 hours.

Lago Nero is close to Abetone and we passed gorgeous scenery along the way. Sometimes looking over the edge towards Orrido di Botri was a bit ‘hairy’.

Admiring the view

The upward journey seemed endless at times, but we stopped often to take in the magnificent views and to eat our Mars bars for energy.

A standout tree

More stunning scenery

We finally reached Lago Nero. The lake definitely looks black…hence the name. We were very close to Abetone, in fact we could see the cable cars and ski run tracks.

Happily on a downhill bit towards the lake

The lake is small and at quite a high altitude, 1,730 metres elevation. It is in the Provence of Pistoia in northern Tuscany.

The lake comes into view

Beautiful Lago Nero

Guide number 3, Rino, cooling off in the lake

We really deserved our lunch at the rifugio where we dined on cheese, bread and red wine. These rifugios are dotted through the area and do a great job for a small donation.

After an hour rest we struggled to get our tired legs moving for the 4.5 hour return walk…the only way home.

On the way back to Prato Fiorito we took in different details of the landscape. For instance,the many variety of mushrooms and colours…and found it fun hunting down a bag full of the small bright yellow ones which are a flavoursome ingredient with the right pasta. We also noticed patches of ‘dug-up ground and rustled leaves, evidence of chingali, but luckily the wild boar were nowere to be seen in the daylight.

The 9.5 hour walk was a bit gruelling at times but fabulously rewarding. A return visit is in order for next summer.

There are lots of amazing walks in the mountains around Bagni di Lucca. I will tell you soon of some others I have done.

The slow bells

Posted on November 9, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Slow bells toll when someone dies in our village. The bells ring to announce the funeral and when the body is taken from the church for the last journey.

The bells rang slowly recently for Oriana, one of the lovely old ladies who lived in Ponte a Serraglio. I met her soon after I arrived in the village. She was always ready with a smile and a chat.

She was part of a group of oldish ladies who would gather in the morning for coffee and a good old chinwag. Several of them are still at the bar every day and there is a cheery “Buongiorno” for me. I haven’t seen Oriana for some time and it appears that she spent the last days of her life in hospital.

There used to be quite a large group of old gentlemen at the bar every morning where they would solve the problems of the world for a few hours, before strolling off home for lunch. This group has dwindled to two or three. I find it very sad to watch them grow old and then disappear one day.

I went to the church to farewell Oriana. She will be missed.

I think it is a lovely tribute to a treasured member of the community. The slow bells allow time to think about the life that has been lived, and recall happy memories.

Bella Bagni di Lucca

A beautiful village in Tuscany

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