Then and Now…Villa Ada

Posted on November 17, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Villa Ada is the 16th century residence of the De’Nobili family. It is set in a beautiful park, which is still used occasionally for events such as the archery competition.

It is still possible to see how elegant it must have been with its lovely covered walkway down to the village. I can imagine what a cool, shady place it must have been on a hot summer day.

You can see Villa Ada in this 1905 photo of La Villa…it is just below the row of cypress trees on the hill.

The photo below was taken in 1908.

It was still looking good 1937.

Villa Ada has belonged to the Comune since 1975. Work has been done to preserve it, but it needs new owners to love and care for it…any takers?

It looks OK from a distance, but as you get closer you can see that it is beginning to deteriorate.

The marble sculpture, The Nymph of the Spa and another statue were in the entrance, but the nymph now resides in the Comune building. I don’t know what happened to the other one.

The grounds must have been very beautiful. It wouldn’t take too much to restore the gardens.

Bagni di Lucca is full of places like this. Is there anyone out there with lots of money?

Guest post by Belinda

Posted on November 13, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Lovely Belinda, who is currently living at Ponte a Serraglio, has written a post for us about a walk she did in August with guides Franz Della Mea and Francesco Foschi. Francesco took the beautiful photos of the scenery along the way.

A long walk to Lago Nero…by Belinda

Luckily the August day we chose for our long walk to Lago Nero was not too hot. Our destination is quite high in the mountains so we had to be careful to dress appropriately, you can never be sure of the weather in the mountains and it can change suddenly.

Our journey began at the base of Prato Fiorito. I was promised a long walk and my guides certainly gave it to me. Our uphill walk lasted for 5 hours.

Lago Nero is close to Abetone and we passed gorgeous scenery along the way. Sometimes looking over the edge towards Orrido di Botri was a bit ‘hairy’.

Admiring the view

The upward journey seemed endless at times, but we stopped often to take in the magnificent views and to eat our Mars bars for energy.

A standout tree

More stunning scenery

We finally reached Lago Nero. The lake definitely looks black…hence the name. We were very close to Abetone, in fact we could see the cable cars and ski run tracks.

Happily on a downhill bit towards the lake

The lake is small and at quite a high altitude, 1,730 metres elevation. It is in the Provence of Pistoia in northern Tuscany.

The lake comes into view

Beautiful Lago Nero

Guide number 3, Rino, cooling off in the lake

We really deserved our lunch at the rifugio where we dined on cheese, bread and red wine. These rifugios are dotted through the area and do a great job for a small donation.

After an hour rest we struggled to get our tired legs moving for the 4.5 hour return walk…the only way home.

On the way back to Prato Fiorito we took in different details of the landscape. For instance,the many variety of mushrooms and colours…and found it fun hunting down a bag full of the small bright yellow ones which are a flavoursome ingredient with the right pasta. We also noticed patches of ‘dug-up ground and rustled leaves, evidence of chingali, but luckily the wild boar were nowere to be seen in the daylight.

The 9.5 hour walk was a bit gruelling at times but fabulously rewarding. A return visit is in order for next summer.

There are lots of amazing walks in the mountains around Bagni di Lucca. I will tell you soon of some others I have done.

The slow bells

Posted on November 9, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Slow bells toll when someone dies in our village. The bells ring to announce the funeral and when the body is taken from the church for the last journey.

The bells rang slowly recently for Oriana, one of the lovely old ladies who lived in Ponte a Serraglio. I met her soon after I arrived in the village. She was always ready with a smile and a chat.

She was part of a group of oldish ladies who would gather in the morning for coffee and a good old chinwag. Several of them are still at the bar every day and there is a cheery “Buongiorno” for me. I haven’t seen Oriana for some time and it appears that she spent the last days of her life in hospital.

There used to be quite a large group of old gentlemen at the bar every morning where they would solve the problems of the world for a few hours, before strolling off home for lunch. This group has dwindled to two or three. I find it very sad to watch them grow old and then disappear one day.

I went to the church to farewell Oriana. She will be missed.

I think it is a lovely tribute to a treasured member of the community. The slow bells allow time to think about the life that has been lived, and recall happy memories.

Flowers everywhere

Posted on November 3, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

On All Souls’ Day, November 2, Italians take flowers to cemeteries to honour their deceased relatives. Florists do a roaring trade and cemeteries come alive with people.

Far from being a gloomy event, it is quite festive. People dress up and stroll around looking at the graves. Cemeteries look beautiful with colourful flowers decorating the tombs. Graves are generally well kept anyway, but this is special.

This is a lovely tradition. How nice to think that someone cared enough to keep your grave clean and tidy and bring flowers sometimes.

Halloween

Posted on November 1, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Halloween is a good excuse for a party. Annalisa threw a fun dress-up party at Bar Italia in Ponte a Serraglio.

There was an interesting cast of characters.

Please note the headless doll in the photo below.

Later in the evening we headed off to Borgo a Mozzano for the famous party which ends in fireworks at the Ponte a Maddelena.

The streets were very crowded, the lighting patchy, so my photos mostly didn’t turn out well.

There were some great costumes. I was particularly impressed by a fellow with an axe through his head and several strings of sausages around his neck. No photos…he got away too quickly.

We shuffled along with the rest of the crowd towards the bridge at the appointed hour. As we arrived a figure swathed in white was being carried to the top of the bridge. Her head fell off on the way, appropriate under the circumstances. She was duly put back together and thrown off the bridge…a sign for the fireworks to get under way.

The audience was enthralled.

I have been wanting to attend the celebrations at Borgo a Mozzano for many years. I have now done so and will be content with that one visit.

Marble beauty

Posted on October 30, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

In Villa Ada above La Villa there was a beautiful marble sculpture of a young woman. She is The Nymph of the Spas, carved from Carrara marble by Ferdinando Palla.

The villa is very run down. Windows have been broken and there was a danger that the sculpture would be damaged.

She has been moved to the ground floor of the comune building in La Villa, making her much safer and more accessible.

Drop in next time you pass by and take a look.

Scacciaguai

Posted on October 26, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

I love this word. It means good luck charm, or chase / sweep your troubles away. This is a scacciaguai.

It is on the wall just around the corner from the entrance to a restaurant named Scacciaguai in Barga.

The restaurant is run by 2 brothers and I think it is very good. I have been a few times and have had delicious food and good service each time.

Now for the food.

They very kindly offer instructions on how to sweep away your troubles. Make the horns with your index finger and your little finger and poke the eyes of the Scacciaguai.

I should be OK now.

Scaccuaguai,

Via di Mezzo 25,

Barga. (39) 0583 711368

www.scacciaguai.it

For more on scacciaguai read My Kitchen Witch.

Eat at Villa Aurora

Posted on October 21, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Villa Aurora is in the most beautiful setting. There is an amazing view of Prato Fiorito and Pieve di Controne. On a fine sunny day it is great to sit outside on the spacious terrace. The owner proudly served us some of the most delicious prosciutto I have ever eaten. Their pasta is great. My friend Carla had the saltimbocca. Agostino and I enjoyed the perfectly cooked trout. I believe the pizzas are good here too…next time. Villa Aurora…Fabbriche di Casabasciana. From the SS12, follow the signs towards Casabasciana. The restaurant is not far along the road. Phone…(39) 0583 85600

Festa della Zucca

Posted on October 16, 2014 by Debra Kolkka

Autumn is a time for festivals in our area. Many villages celebrate the season with festivals honouring the local produce. I recently attended the Festa della Zucca (pumpkin festival) in Piegaia, not far from Bagni di Lucca.

There were lots of people there enjoying the many stalls selling interesting things to do with pumpkins and other delights.

There were pumpkins in all shapes and sizes.

Delicious food was available. We chose penne with pumpkin and creme brûlée with pumpkin.

It is great to see these festival well attended by people of all ages. Everyone joins in and has a great time. I went with Heather from Sapori e Saperi. She knows all the best places to go.