Flower petals in Brandeglio

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We set off on a lazy Sunday afternoon to visit Brandeglio, one of the villages of Bagni di Lucca. It sits 629 metres above sea level, 6.5 kilometres from La Villa. It has a population of 67 people.

We parked in the car park outside the village and made our way through the winding streets.

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The early summer gardens were gorgeous and the window boxes especially lovely.

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I found an old motorcycle that had been put to good use.

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We found the lovely old church.

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Inside there was a beautiful altar and a painting of the last supper.

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There is always a snoozing cat.

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This one woke up for his photo.

In the piazza we came upon this sign.

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Just as well we had parked the car outside the village. There was to be a procession later that afternoon. The square and chapel were decorated for the occasion.

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There was a little girl with a basket of rose petals trying to decorate the square but the wind was ruining her work.

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What a pity we couldn’t stay for the festivities, the square looked beautiful with its rose petals, despite the wind.

The views from Brandeglio are stunning.

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Take the time to drive up to Brandeglio. Like all the villages that make up Bagni di Lucca, it has its own character.

Meet Daniela and Mauro from Lugliano

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Lugliano is on top of the hill in the photo….that little bump with the tower beside it is the main part of the village. You can just see a row of houses along the ridge.

Daniela and Mauro are the parents of my lovely friend Paolo, so they were the obvious choice for me to talk to about Lugliano, the village that sits high above Ponte a Serraglio, just a few kilometres drive up the winding road behind my apartment.

Daniela and Mauro live in a beautiful house with a great garden that keeps Daniela busy.

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They have a spectacular view over the surrounding mountains from their terrace.

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Mauro makes beautiful wood carvings which he sells from a pretty little shop in Ponte a Serraglio.

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Mauro and Daniela met in the village, not very far from where they now live. I took a walk along the ridge where Lugliano sits and up the hill to the little cluster of houses there.

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The church at the start of the village.

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Keeping watch over Lugliano.

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A beautiful view.

The little road winds up the hill to the main part of the village.

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Come for a walk around Lugliano.

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The views over La Villa, Ponte a Serraglio and beyond are wonderful.

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Lugliano looks good from below as well.

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Say hello Mauro and Daniela at their shop in Ponte a Serraglio in the summer months. It is beside the Bar Italia.

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Meet Tina from Ponte a Serraglio

Tina was one of the first people I met when I came to Ponte a Serraglio, lucky me. She has been a great help to us in all things, in fact, our lives here would have been much more difficult if not for Tina. She knows everything worth knowing about Bagni di Lucca….and she speaks perfect English.

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Tina’s mother was from Bagni di Lucca, and her father came from Piacenza, but she was born in New York. Her father died when she was young, and at 12 years of age she came with her mother to live at Ponte a Serraglio in 1949, in the lean years after the war. I asked her to tell me some of what she remembers of her life in the village.

Tina arrived after the war, but memories were still fresh then. There was a lot of fighting in the area. Remnants of the Gottica Line can still be seen nearby.

The Ponte a Serraglio piazza was damaged during World War 11. The retreating Germans destroyed the bridge and a temporary one was put in by the Allied Troops. Tina’s grandmother told of an incident involving the over enthusiastic use of dynamite to widen the road to allow tanks through, which resulted in the near destruction of several buildings in the square. The front of our building also suffered some damage, but was able to be repaired.

What is now the Bar Italia and the Bridge Hotel were rebuilt in 1951 – 1952 along with the new bridge. Things slowly improved in the 1950s when buildings were repaired and painted and by the 1960s Ponte a Serraglio was a thriving town.

There were 3 grocery stores, 2 fruit and vegetable shops, 2 butchers, a pharmacy, 2 hairdressers and 2 barbers, a hardware store, 2 bakeries, a fabric store and one that sold sewing machines, a cigarette and cigar store, a shoe store, shoe repairers and bicycle repairs and a bank.

As well as the 2 bars, which are still operating, there were 3 osterias to provide meals and places for people to gather and socialise.

At the time ready to wear clothing was still not popular and there were a few seamstresses in the village. Not everyone had a well equipped kitchen and people would take their roast dinners and cakes and biscuits to the bakeries to be cooked after the bread was done for the day. One of the cooks was particularly good with biscuits and quite a few of hers never made it home.

There was a police station near Villa Fiori which supplied a source of eligible men for the village. New recruits were quickly snapped up by the local girls.

I asked Tina what happened to all the shops and businesses as there are very few left. She said it was a combination of things. Before the war families had lots of children. Tina told me that the school she attended wasn’t big enough to hold all the children and some of them were sent to a nearby building for their lessons. The school building is still there, but is now empty and in need of serious renovation. It would make a great apartment building.

During the 1950s and 1960s there were fewer babies born. Most families had only 1 or 2. This coupled with young people slowly moving away to find better paid work than was offered in the few factories in the area, meant that the population slowly declined and the businesses couldn’t survive.

Tina remembers that there was still a horse and carriage to take people to the station and to make deliveries when she was young. One of the first cars to appear after the war was a Fiat Cinquecento, which must have caused a bit of excitement.

Foreigners, like us, are now moving into the area and buying the empty houses and apartments. While this may not be the perfect solution, I think is better than having the village die. It is good to see the houses lived in and gardens growing again. Our little piazza is constantly full with locals and people from all over the world. We have English, Australian, Norwegian, Brazilian, Finnish, American, Dutch and lots of other nationalities chattering to each other in the bar and I think it is great. It is still an authentic Italian village and I don’t think any of the foreigners want to change anything.

I would love to have seen Ponte a Serraglio in its heyday, it must have been a lively, fun place. I think it is delightful now and buying our apartment near the bridge has been a wonderful thing, allowing us to spend several months a year in the village.

If you see Tina at Bar Italia, say hello. She often sits with a group of lovely Ponte ladies.

The photo below was taken in early 2018. The next one is an earlier photo.

Tina

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The inauguration of San Michele Arcangelo in Benabbio

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While I was enjoying myself at the archery competition in La Villa another important event was taking place high above Benabbio. Morena from the Borgo Artisti went along and took some photos for us.

There was a Castello by Lupo Lupari on the original site of the village of Benabbio, above where the village now stands. The ruins of the castle are still there.

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The small church beside the Castello has been restored and people gathered to inaugurate the building.

It was a hot day and it is a long walk up that hill. A lucky few got a ride up.

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Some managed the walk.

Everyone moved into the restored church.

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There were photo boards of the restoration process.

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It took a lot of work to bring the church back to life.

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San Michele Arcangelo.

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The stone floor is original.

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The architect who supervised the restoration and the local historian spoke, then it was time for the priest to bless the church.

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It was hot in there.

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Soon it was time for everyone to be outside for refreshments.

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People of all ages were there to celebrate.

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Finding a spot in the shade was a good idea.

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Man’s best friend is always welcome.

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There is a cemetery beside the church and in 2007 – 2011 students from the university of Pisa began excavating the graves. Victims of a cholera epidemic were hastily buried and 26 skeletons have been found so far. Work will begin again soon.

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Next time you are in Benabbio, take a walk up the hill to the restored church…try it on a cool day.

Thank you Morena for giving me the details of this occasion and for taking lots of photos for us.

Meet Oriano and Pina from Pieve di Monti di Villa

We met 2 of Pieve di Monti di Villa’s hundred or so inhabitants when we were trying to raid a cherry tree on the side of the road.

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Oriano appeared and with his trusty umbrella he pulled a branch down for us.

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Soon his wife Pina joined us and told us a little about their pretty village. Oriano was born in the village and Pina was born in Genova. She was sent to Pieve as a child during the war. She found Genova a little noisy when she went back and eventually settled in the village and met Oriano.

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Many of the residents moved away to America, Australia and Canada in tough times in the 20th century. People are slowly coming back to enjoy the peaceful mountain life.

Come for a walk through the village to see why.

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The church dedicated to St Julia was built in the 12th century, rebuilt in 1446 and remodelled between 1760 and 1766. Only the apse belongs to the original structure.

The narrow streets wind slowly down the side of the mountain.

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There are some lovely old doorways.

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And some interesting locking devices.

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Things grow well in Pieve.

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There are lovely details.

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There is a pretty bar, which wasn’t open the afternoon we were there. Another visit is needed.

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We spotted a small resident out for a walk.

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Wandering through the villages of Bagni di Lucca is delightful…especially when you get to meet lovely people like Oriano and Pina.

In every village I have been to I have met people who have been happy to stop and have a chat. Don’t be afraid to say Buongiorno, you never know where it may lead.

Vico Pancellorum, all the way to the top

We had lunch again at the wonderful Buca di Baldabo in Vico Pancellorum. It was a beautiful day and after lunch we ventured into new territory when we headed uphill from the restaurant.

The name Vico Pancellorum may have come from ‘panis celorum’ – heavenly bread, but more probably from a type of grass, ‘panicellum’ which grew in the area. The town is ancient and now has a population of only about 120 inhabitants.

Come for a walk to the top of the village.

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We walked back to the car through beautiful chestnut trees.

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The birds were singing, wildlfowers line the road and the air is heavenly. What more could you wish for?

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Click here to see the other post on Vico Pancellorum which talks about the delicious food at Buca di Baldabo and the lower part of the village.

There is an official website for Vico Pancellorum…vicopancellorum.toscana.it

Lovers’ walk

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Beside the Lima River at La Villa is the lovely walkway dedicated to the English poets, Elizabeth Barrett and Robert Browning, who spent a few summers in Bagni di Lucca in the 1800s. The path was created from the drainage channel of an ancient millpond.

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The 2 English poets wrote some of their sonnets during their visits to Bagni di Lucca in 1848, 1853 and 1857. The walk was dedicated to the pair in 2008.

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You can find an entrance to the walk near Conad, where you see the sign beside the road.

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There is a path to the walk beside the Teatro Accademico, where there is also access to the pedestrian bridge. It is possible to enter the walk from a couple of places at the other end of La Villa as well.

The pretty park in La Villa

There is a lovely park behind the main street in La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. It is a cool place to sit on a hot day and there is a children’s playground.

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The park had a bit of a makeover last year. The old trees were trimmed, the water tower renovated, the playgound renewed and a new fountain was installed.

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It is great to see that the park is well used by locals and visitors alike.

Art lessons in Longoio

Peggy Gosling is organizing art lessons in the village of Longoio, where she lives for part of the year. She invited me to the pretty hamlet on the road from La Villa to Montefegatesi to talk about her upcoming venture.
The Longoio geese were at the entrance of the town to greet me.

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I think they imagine themselves to be guards, protecting their territory, with lots of hissing and honking. I took their enthusiastic antics as a welcome. Soon their owner appeared to direct them home.

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I wandered though the town which was begun centuries ago as a friary. There are lots of archways, which were apparently built by the friars so they could walk on top of them without having to walk through wet fields in the cold winters.

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I love the old doorways and windows in the villages.

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There are lovely details everywhere.

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Spring has been a bit of a disappointment so far, but there are always spring flowers.

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I don’t know what the yellow flowers are, but the new growth below is Laurel. Those Bay leaves will no doubt find their way into a pasta sauce.

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The roses are just beginning and the tulips nearly finished.

I came across the old church above the village.

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And I met the geese again on their travels.

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There will certainly be lots of things to draw or paint for the budding artists who come to join Peggy.
Longoio Art is offering landscape drawing and painting holidays, starting later this year. Experienced artists and teachers will help develop your skills in gorgeous settings in and around Longoio.

Take a look at Longoio Art’s website for more information.

www.landscapepaintingtuscany.com

Montefegatesi, the highest of the Bagni di Lucca villages

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Montefegatesi sits high above the other villages in Bagni di Lucca. It is 842 metres above sea level. It takes about 25 minutes to drive up the steep, winding road from La Villa, unless you are Italian and drive like Fangio, in which case it might only take 10 minutes. I prefer to live, so 25 minutes is just fine.

Because of its strategic position it was used by Lucca to guard the boundary with Modena, and as a result was subject to enemy assault.

All that is in the distant past, and now the village sits sleepily in the sun, enjoying its view over some of the other hamlets making up Bagni di Lucca.

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After parking the car in the car parking area just outside the village we followed an Ape into town.

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There are some pretty coloured houses.

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And a tiny church in the first piazza.

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From this square there are 2 narrow roads leading through the village. We took the high road towards the top for the exceptional views from there.

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Take a closer look at that orange house on the hill opposite. It is the colour of a Halloween pumpkin. I love it!!

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Along the way there is lots to see.

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The cemetery in the distance.

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Weeds. Look closer.

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A lovely local Signora told me the plant is called scarletina and grows wild on rock walls all over the village.

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I think that is Monte di Villa below the rooftops. ( I have since been informed that the village is Tereglio, thank you for the information)

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There’s that orange house again.

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At the top of the hill is the monument to Dante Aleghieri, built by the villagers in 1908.

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This man never looks happy.

There are great views of the village from here.

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Next time we will take the low road.

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On the afternoon we went to Montfegatesi we experienced all kinds of weather. We had rain, sun, wind and even a little snow. It made for some dramatic skies.

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There is a bus that goes from La Villa to Montefegatesi, but it only goes once or twice a day. Be sure you can get back if you go this way.

Click here to see Montefegatesi in spring.