Casoli

To get to Casoli it is necessary to cross a tiny, narrow bridge. Turn right if driving from Bagni di Lucca, from the Brennero at the Casoli sign and take this cute bridge.

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Houses were built around a castle at top of a hill and became the village of Casoli. Some remnants of the castle still stand.

At the beginning of the town is a monument to poet Francesco Puccini, who was also known as Geremia. He was born in Casoli in 1686.

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The nearby Oratorio della Madonna all Fontana is well preserved.

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The washing area beside the church is lovely.

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Beside the washing area is one of the old mule tracks which entered the village.

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There is a particularly interesting portal at the top of the track, dating from 1496.

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Come for a walk through the village, starting at the church.

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The village has quite a good looking bar near the car park.

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Take a last look up at the village.

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Then it is back down the narrow, winding road to the bridge.

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Look out for the renovator’s delight opposite the bridge.

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Bugnano, the abandoned village in Bagni di Lucca

Bugnano is a tiny collection of completely abandoned houses, just outside the village of Riolo. There is no sign to the village, just an overgrown track at a bend in the road.

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I have heard that the village was abandoned after WWII when the residents went off in search of a better life. A few years ago an English company planned to restore it and turn it into holiday accommodation, but their plans came to nothing. It may be too far gone now to do anything. The forest is taking over.

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It is quite sad to see these ruined houses. Somebody once loved them. Some touches of home remain.

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One house must have been very grand in its day.

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The kitchen sink is still there.

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And the place where the fireplace would have been.

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What must have been the living room has some frescoes remaining.

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The front room has great views over the mountains.

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Soon the forest may take over completely.

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Even the mushrooms growing near the big house look dark and sinister.

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Somebody has camped in one of the houses recently.

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Do you know anyone with lots of money and some imagination? Wouldn’t it be great to see the village live again?

Teri Giannetti has kindly sent some extra photos of Bugnano.

 

Vetteglia

Vetteglia is a tiny hamlet in the San Cassiano area of Bagni di Lucca. 37 people live here. I think they were all having an afternoon nap the day I visited the village. I enjoyed a lovely walk in the afternoon sun.

The village is dominated the imposing Pratofiorito, where you can still see the Ravi del Pratofiorito (landslides) which destroyed the hamlets of Celle and Cerro.

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There are great views across to neighbouring San Cassiano.

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And to the villages on the other side of the valley.

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The village is a jumble of well kept houses, pretty gardens and small fruit and vegetable plots.

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The last of the peaches and pears for the season.

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I almost missed this grey cat in his grey corner.

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There are a few renovator’s delights to be seen.

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Some perfectly stacked wood piles waiting for winter.

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A perfect garden shed.

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A pretty little church.

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And it is only 40 minutes walk to San Gemignano.

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Another day…. For me it was back to the top of the village for a last look across the tiny piazza at the top and back to my car.

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This morning at Ponte a Serraglio

The sun has just hit my balcony and it is going to be a beautiful day…..again.

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The first photo was taken from my balcony and the rest from the bridge below. I think you can see why I love it here.

It has been a long, hot summer. The river is low and things are not as green as usual. Autumn will soon be here to turn the leaves gold……lovely.

A celebration of Dante Alighieri in Montefegatesi

On a beautiful summer evening in July, Dante Alighieri devotees were invited to an evening of poetry. The crowd gathered at the monument to Dante, high above Montefegatesi, to listen to Sergio Frati recite from memory, hymns from the Divine Comedy.

With help from fellow Dante lover, Giovanni Pacini, Sergio had the crowd enthralled.

What a wonderful way to spend a summer evening.

The views from the Dante Monument are spectacular.

It wouldn’t be an Italian evening without food, and after the recital everyone congregated for dinner at a very long table outside the club.

 

After dinner the group went to the town theatre where there was a historical exhibition of emigration relating to Montefegatesi.

Sergio then recited another three sections of The Divine Comedy, telling the story of Paolo, Francesco, Ugolino and other characters from Dante’s masterpiece.

I am sorry I wasn’t there for what looks like a fun evening. The photos and story were made possible by Emanuele Lotti of the Bagni di Lucca Trekking Club. Thank you Emanuele for helping us to keep up with what is happening in Bagni di Lucca.

Click here to see more on the Bagni di Lucca Trekking Club.

Dante Alighieri keeps watch over the village.

Montefegatesi revisited

I had only been to Montefegatesi in winter, so I thought I should take a look in warmer weather. Last time I was in the village I took the high road to the top. This time I went the other way, winding down towards the bottom.

Come for a walk through the tiny streets of Montefegatesi in lovely spring.

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This white furry bundle is not a cat.

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It is a cute little rabbit roaming free on a terrace.

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I’ll be back soon to Bagni di Lucca for late summer and autumn…..can’t wait.

Click here to see the previous post on Montefegatesi to see the high road and the statue of Dante Alighieri watching over the village.

The opening of a new museum in San Cassiano

There is a new museum in San Cassiano to house the 14th century sculpture in wood of a horse and rider, identified as San Martino, by artist Jacopo dell Quercia. The sculptor is also famous for the carving of the tomb of Ilaria Guinigi in the Duomo in Lucca, and the Fontana Gaia in Siena, among other things. San Martino was known for his generosity and compassion and it is said that he cut his cloak in half and gave it to a poor freezing peasant to keep him warm in winter.

Previously the sculpture had been kept in the local church.The Chiesa Monumentale di S.Cassiano has been known since 722. The facade is from the period between 9th and 12th centuries.

At 11.30 people began to gather in front of the church for the ceremony.

The mayor of Bagni di Lucca, Dottore Massimo Betti, gave a speech about the importance of the Lima Valley. The area of San Cassiano had a population of 1800 people in the 16th century, at a time when La Villa and Ponte a Serraglio had a combined population of only 570.

After more speeches by those responsible for setting up the museum, the priest and the onlookers toasted the new museum.

Then everyone filed in to see the sculpture.

I was not at the museum opening, but Heather Jarman from Sapori-e-Saperi was, and kindly sent the photos and details of the event so we can all share it. Thank you Heather.

The new museum will be open every Saturday from 9.00 – 12.00 and 15.00 – 19.00. For information and booking at other times call: (39) 0583 809275

For a previous post on San Cassiano click here.

Meet Heather from Casabasciana

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Heather Jarman lives in Casabasciana, one of the gorgeous mountain villages of Bagni di Lucca. In her career as an archeologist she researched the early history of agriculture. She is passionately interested in food, from growing and production to cooking and eating.

Her knowledge of food production in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana is amazing. I first met her last year when she took me along to meet a local cheese maker. We set off into the mountains and met the delightful Marzia who spent the morning showing us how to make cheese and ricotta. Click here for the full story.

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On another adventure we went high in the mountains to a village called Lupinaia for their chestnut festival. It was one of the most delightful afternoons I have ever had, topped off with a walk back to the car along an old mule trail.

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Click here to see more of the very beautiful Lupinaia.

This year we headed off to the Slow Food soup finals in Lucca and got to try some delicious soup and listen to some great folk music. Click here to see more.

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I have learned how to make bread using traditional methods in a wood fired oven with Paolo after visiting his gorgeous farm in the Garfagnana. He grows farro and breeds beautiful cattle. Click here to see the gorgeous cows.

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That’s Paolo blessing the bread as it goes in the oven.

I went with Heather to the huntsmen’s dinner in Casabasciana, where we helped the hunters eat the cinghiale (wild boar) they had caught during the season. Both the food and the company were wonderful after we had worked up our appetites with a walk around the beautiful village at sunset.

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Click here to see more of Casabasciana.

We went to the Lucca Wine and Food festival and met lots of local wine makers.

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And we ate some wonderful local food. Click here to see more.

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Quite possibly best of all she introduced me to the delightful concerts in Lucca organised by Mattia. I became a regular visitor on Tuesday and Friday nights. Click here to find out more, or check the website http://iconcertidegliangeli.com

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There is a never ending list of things to do in Bagni di Lucca and the nearby areas…..and Heather knows all about them. She organises tours for small groups to do things you would never find in a guide book. In her own words she is “Making tourism work to sustain the rural economy and the people. …you will encounter an endangered lifestyle which we don’t want to disappear.”

Visit her website for more information…..www.sapori-e-saperi.com