Meet Heather from Casabasciana

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Heather Jarman lives in Casabasciana, one of the gorgeous mountain villages of Bagni di Lucca. In her career as an archeologist she researched the early history of agriculture. She is passionately interested in food, from growing and production to cooking and eating.

Her knowledge of food production in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana is amazing. I first met her last year when she took me along to meet a local cheese maker. We set off into the mountains and met the delightful Marzia who spent the morning showing us how to make cheese and ricotta. Click here for the full story.

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On another adventure we went high in the mountains to a village called Lupinaia for their chestnut festival. It was one of the most delightful afternoons I have ever had, topped off with a walk back to the car along an old mule trail.

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Click here to see more of the very beautiful Lupinaia.

This year we headed off to the Slow Food soup finals in Lucca and got to try some delicious soup and listen to some great folk music. Click here to see more.

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I have learned how to make bread using traditional methods in a wood fired oven with Paolo after visiting his gorgeous farm in the Garfagnana. He grows farro and breeds beautiful cattle. Click here to see the gorgeous cows.

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That’s Paolo blessing the bread as it goes in the oven.

I went with Heather to the huntsmen’s dinner in Casabasciana, where we helped the hunters eat the cinghiale (wild boar) they had caught during the season. Both the food and the company were wonderful after we had worked up our appetites with a walk around the beautiful village at sunset.

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Click here to see more of Casabasciana.

We went to the Lucca Wine and Food festival and met lots of local wine makers.

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And we ate some wonderful local food. Click here to see more.

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Quite possibly best of all she introduced me to the delightful concerts in Lucca organised by Mattia. I became a regular visitor on Tuesday and Friday nights. Click here to find out more, or check the website http://iconcertidegliangeli.com

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There is a never ending list of things to do in Bagni di Lucca and the nearby areas…..and Heather knows all about them. She organises tours for small groups to do things you would never find in a guide book. In her own words she is “Making tourism work to sustain the rural economy and the people. …you will encounter an endangered lifestyle which we don’t want to disappear.”

Visit her website for more information…..www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Weddings in Bagni di Lucca

There has been a crop of weddings held in Bagni di Lucca recently. It makes sense. The area is beautiful and it seems so romantic to be married in Italy. Couples have been coming from as far afield as Norway, England and Australia to get married in our gorgeous town.

The new mayor of Bagni di Lucca officiated at a recent wedding at the Circolo dei Forrestieri (Foreigners’ Club) The bride and bridesmaid arrived in a converted Ape…you could almost call it a stretch Ape.

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Guests on the balcony waiting for the bride.

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After another wedding I found some abandoned hearts floating in the garden of the Circolo.

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Organising a wedding in another country can be formidable, but Lisa from Hitched in Italy can help you organise a special day in Bagni di Lucca. I’m sure it would be a big help to have someone taking care of the details so you can just enjoy the day.

http://www.hitchedinitaly.com

Play tennis in Bagni di Lucca

There is a tennis club in La Villa, the main village of Bagni di Lucca. The courts operate all year. In winter there are huge covers erected to keep out the rain and cold.

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I have been here since early February and it has been fun to watch these trees turn green with the arrival of spring.

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Now the covers are off for the summer.

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The courts are clay and some friends played there recently and said they were excellent.

The courts are for hire, with or without your own equipment.
Phone 0583 805342 for information.

A pool with a view

In summer, the beautiful swimming pools open in La Villa, the main village in Bagni di Lucca. The water is crystal clear and the views from the swimming area are stunning.

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It is a great place to be on a hot, sunny day.

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It costs €6.50 to enter the pool and you will need a bathing cap. (prices may change, this is what I was quoted the day I went)

There is a covered pool in winter with warm water from the springs, just what you need on a cold winter day.

The pool is behind La Villa on the way to Villa Ada at the end of Via Evangelina Whipple and is open from 9.00 am until 7.00pm.
Check details by phoning 334 2171150

The entrance fee is now €8. After 3.30pm it is €6.50

Medieval archery in Bagni di Lucca

On Sunday 17 th June the annual Palio Della Balestra was held in La Villa. The archery competition took place in the grounds of the beautiful Villa Ada, up the hill behind the village of La Villa.

It is a good excuse for people to dress up in gorgeous medieval costumes and shoot arrows at targets…..or just watch other people shoot arrows at targets. Lots of fun was had by all.

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One of the handsome young knights had trouble doing his hair given that he was wearing rather large gloves. Fortunately one of his mates helped out.

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That is much easier to fit under a helmet.

There were some serious archers.

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Arrows were checked and removed from the targets.

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Scores were discussed.

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There were flowers to be presented to winners.

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There was a display of medieval food preparation.

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There were weapons to be discussed.

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Meanwhile there was a little market in La Villa.

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After the first round of the competition the participants were joined by drummers and other musicians for a parade into town.

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The drummers were excellent.

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Look at this gorgeous young drummer.

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Actually they were all gorgeous.

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There were also bagpipes.

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Here is a last look at the handsome young knight.

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Then it was time for lunch before the next round of competition……but by then it was hot and I went home.

When you visit and town or village make sure you check with the information centre to see what festivals are on….you wouldn’t want to miss one.

Thank you to Ilario (see comments below) for letting me know that Bagni di Lucca’s crossbow team is the champion team in Italy. I told you there were some serious archers there.

Click here to see the 2013 event.

Lovers’ walk

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Beside the Lima River at La Villa is the lovely walkway dedicated to the English poets, Elizabeth Barrett and Robert Browning, who spent a few summers in Bagni di Lucca in the 1800s. The path was created from the drainage channel of an ancient millpond.

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The 2 English poets wrote some of their sonnets during their visits to Bagni di Lucca in 1848, 1853 and 1857. The walk was dedicated to the pair in 2008.

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You can find an entrance to the walk near Conad, where you see the sign beside the road.

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There is a path to the walk beside the Teatro Accademico, where there is also access to the pedestrian bridge. It is possible to enter the walk from a couple of places at the other end of La Villa as well.

2 special events in Bagni di Lucca

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On Friday 4th May the San Giovanni spa was officially opened by the outgoing mayor of Bagni di Lucca. Work has been going on for some time on the wonderful old building. It is great to see these places brought back to life.

I photographed the spa late last year while the work was still going on.

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There is still some work to do on the interior, but it is looking good.

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A good crowd gathered to watch as the mayor performed one of his final duties.

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The mayor spoke and the new young priest for Bagni di Lucca blessed the building.

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Then everyone charged inside to see what will be on offer when it really opens.

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The rooms are light and airy, thanks to the sky lights and glass ceiling.

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There are lots of treatment rooms and beautiful baths to take advantage of the health giving waters coming from the spring that feeds the spa. There has been a spa of some kind in this spot for centuries.

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Hopefully the work will be completed soon and people will flock to the new spa.

The second event took place the next day at the station at Fornoli.

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The mayor was on hand again to open the newly renovated waiting room at the Bagni di Lucca railway station. I recall arriving here in May 2003 and thinking I would like to take a broom and paintbrush to this place. Somebody finally has and it is going to look great, a much better welcome to Bagni di Lucca.

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I missed the ribbon cutting, but I did see the scissors.

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There isn’t much to photograph in the waiting room of a station, so I will show you around the outside.

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The old station near the present one.

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On the platform.

Waiting for a train.

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There was even a train at the station.

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Now if they could just get the train to coordinate with the bus that goes past the station all would be perfect.

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I love the tree lined street that leads to the station.

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I wonder what the new mayor will bring to Bagni di Lucca.

For those of you who are interested, there was lots of food on offer. Those who did not attend the openings should remember this for next time.

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Art lessons in Longoio

Peggy Gosling is organizing art lessons in the village of Longoio, where she lives for part of the year. She invited me to the pretty hamlet on the road from La Villa to Montefegatesi to talk about her upcoming venture.
The Longoio geese were at the entrance of the town to greet me.

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I think they imagine themselves to be guards, protecting their territory, with lots of hissing and honking. I took their enthusiastic antics as a welcome. Soon their owner appeared to direct them home.

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I wandered though the town which was begun centuries ago as a friary. There are lots of archways, which were apparently built by the friars so they could walk on top of them without having to walk through wet fields in the cold winters.

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I love the old doorways and windows in the villages.

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There are lovely details everywhere.

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Spring has been a bit of a disappointment so far, but there are always spring flowers.

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I don’t know what the yellow flowers are, but the new growth below is Laurel. Those Bay leaves will no doubt find their way into a pasta sauce.

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The roses are just beginning and the tulips nearly finished.

I came across the old church above the village.

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And I met the geese again on their travels.

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There will certainly be lots of things to draw or paint for the budding artists who come to join Peggy.
Longoio Art is offering landscape drawing and painting holidays, starting later this year. Experienced artists and teachers will help develop your skills in gorgeous settings in and around Longoio.

Take a look at Longoio Art’s website for more information.

www.landscapepaintingtuscany.com

Do you like music and art?

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There has been an interest in music and art in the Bagni di Lucca for centuries. The art side of things is obvious…we are surrounded by gorgeous art in the churches and museums in the area.

Puccini was born in Lucca and performed, along with many other famous musicians, in several locations in Bagni di Lucca. The appreciation of music continues in the village.

For those visiting the village this summer, local music and art aficionado, Paula Chesterman has organised art and music appreciation tours. There will be visits to Lucca and Florence with the emphasis on art and music and Puccini opera at the open air theatre in nearby Torre del Lago, where the composer lived for a time.

Paula has been involved with music and the performing arts for most of her life. She was a music teacher in England and for many years brought her students to Italy where her choir performed her own compositions in several amazing venues, including St Marks in Venice.

She came to Bagni di Lucca 6 years ago, fell in love with the village, bought a house and moved here permanently……it happens a lot. The beauty and rich history of the area has inspired her to share her knowledge and love of art with those who visit. Her daughter Jo, is also a music teacher. She lives in nearby Modena and will be assisting with the tours.

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Teatro Accademico in La Villa.

Visit Paula’s website……www.tuscantalent.com………for more information.

Pian di Fiume, an agriturismo in Bagni di Lucca

The Agriturismo Pian di Fiume takes its name from the medieval hamlet which has been lovingly restored and brought back to life. Guests now stay in the old houses that made up the tiny village.

Pian di Fiume is 2 kilometres from La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. Take the road towards Abetone and look for the bridge on the left side of the road.

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The agriturismo sits lazily beside the Lima River. At the river level there is a flat plain where the animals are kept. There are chickens, turkeys, horses, sheep, goats and a herd of cinta senese pigs, the semi wild pigs that feed on acorns and chestnuts. They also keep bees and the honey they produce is for sale.

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Surely a face that only a mother could love.

Up a very steep dirt road is the restaurant, accommodation and pool.

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The setting is lovely.

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There is a tiny church from the original village.

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Even though we arrived unannounced, Daniela made us a delicious lunch.

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Flower shaped ravioli made by Daniela.

There is a lovely dining room.

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But we chose to eat on the outside terrace with a view over the valley.

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Thank you Daniela for our lovely lunch.

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On the way out we spotted a little plaque with Adriano’s name on it. He felt the need to pose beside it.

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In summer the river is a great place to swim.

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Perhaps you will be joined by the cinta senese who like to drink there.

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www.piandifiume.it

info@piandifiume.it

39 0583 805751