Lunch in Vico Pancellorum

Posted on April 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The wonderfully named Vico Pancellorum is a ancient town. Like other towns in Bagni di Lucca, it was involved in conflicts between Florence and Lucca. The town was almost razed to the ground in 1343. It still retains the medieval structure and is fun to explore.

At the entrance to the town is the church, Pieve di S. Paolo, which dates from 873.

The church is Romanesque style. The facade is gabled, with a cross rose window. Symbolic figures are carved in the lunette over the door.

We decided the figure on the left was wearing and early example of board shorts.

It was an overcast day the day we visited, but the view over the surrounding mountains was spectacular.

The wintery landscape seems to suit this village.

We walked around behind the church, where there is a narrow road up to the village.

There were signs of spring to brighten a dull day.

As usual, I love all the little details to be discovered in the tiny streets.

I want a unicorn tap too!

The main purpose of our visit was to have lunch at the very well known restaurant Buca di Baldabo. I have eaten here several times and the food is very good. I have yet to come on a fine day. I will have to keep trying.

Our first course was ravioli with Zingara sauce…..delicious.

I had deer with olives next.

My friend had rabbit with capers.

And who can go past poached pear with chocolate sauce????

On a better day I will go to the higher part of the town to look around.

There are some wonderful old gnarled trees along the road into town.

There are some very interesting works of art as well on the way into town.

I’m not sure of the significance of some of these pieces, but it made us stop and look.

Be sure to phone Buca di Baldabo before you go to make sure they are open. (39) 0583 89062

Pian di Fiume, an agriturismo in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on March 22, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The Agriturismo Pian di Fiume takes its name from the medieval hamlet which has been lovingly restored and brought back to life. Guests now stay in the old houses that made up the tiny village.

Pian di Fiume is 2 kilometres from La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. Take the road towards Abetone and look for the bridge on the left side of the road.

The agriturismo sits lazily beside the Lima River. At the river level there is a flat plain where the animals are kept. There are chickens, turkeys, horses, sheep, goats and a herd of cinta senese pigs, the semi wild pigs that feed on acorns and chestnuts. They also keep bees and the honey they produce is for sale.

Surely a face that only a mother could love.

Up a very steep dirt road is the restaurant, accommodation and pool.

The setting is lovely.

There is a tiny church from the original village.

Even though we arrived unannounced, Daniela made us a delicious lunch.

Flower shaped ravioli made by Daniela.

There is a lovely dining room.

But we chose to eat on the outside terrace with a view over the valley.

Thank you Daniela for our lovely lunch.

On the way out we spotted a little plaque with Adriano’s name on it. He felt the need to pose beside it.

In summer the river is a great place to swim.

Perhaps you will be joined by the cinta senese who like to drink there.

www.piandifiume.it

info@piandifiume.it

39 0583 805751

Lunch at Cavallino Bianco in Benabbio

Posted on March 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

I had heard that there was a good restaurant in Benabbio so on a quiet winter Sunday I made my way to the hilltop village. Benabbio is about 5 kilometres uphill from La Villa. Take the road towards Abetone, turn right at the Benabbio sign and follow the winding road.

The road to Benabbio.

There are some lovely buildings in Benabbio and some spectacular views, even in winter.

It was easy to find the restaurant. It is right on the tiny piazza in the centre of the village

The restaurant was full for Sunday lunch….a good sign.

The menu was not written, but the very cheerful owner told me what was on offer for the day. I started with delicious antipasto.

These little pillows of deliciousness are pasta fritta. It is a bread dough that is fried rather than baked.

For those who don’t like pigeons, here is your revenge, risotto al piccione. I do like pigeons, but I pushed my guilt aside.

I was also given some home made pasta to try…..and it was very good.

I watched some wonderful looking dishes being delivered and eaten very quickly at nearby tables. I clearly need to come back to try some of the other choices.

Dessert was too good to refuse.

There is a downstairs bar as well as the upstairs restaurant.

Here is the lovely man who served me. I didn’t catch his name. I really will have to go back.

Cavallino Bianco, Piazza S. Maria, 13. Benabbio
http://www.ilcavallinobianco.com
(+39) 0583 804089

Have a pastry at Ponte a Serraglio

Posted on February 25, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

We are very lucky in Ponte a Serraglio, we have Il Monaco, where Annalisa and her pastry chef, Stefana make the most delicious pastries and cakes. The pasticceria opens very early in the mornings and is instantly busy. The coffee is excellent and choosing which pastry to have may just be the hardest decision you will make all day.

There are also delicious sandwiches for those who prefer savoury things in the morning.

It is Carnevale time which means fritelle. I think it is wrong that these little donut like pastries are only available for a few weeks a year.

Stefana is showing us the chocolate version. They also come with a rice or vanilla filling…..more decisions.

Annalisa is helped in Il Monaco by her sister Suzanna and a team of pretty girls. Her 2 daughters are still a bit young to help.

Annalisa is on the right, Suzanna is holding Sylvia and Elise, who has the most beautiful hair I have ever seen, is in front of her mother.

Don’t have breakfast at home. Il Monaco and Bar Italia, across the piazza ( also owned by Annalisa ) are so much more fun. Apart from getting a great coffee, it is the best way to experience village life. Practise your best Buongiorno and meet the locals.

Il Monaco is open early every day except Wednesday. The closing time depends on the time of year. In warmer weather they also make delicious gelato.

You will find Il Monaco and Bar Italia in the piazza at Ponte a Serraglio. I am most fortunate, I just have to walk across the bridge and I am there.

Bagni di Lucca has the first casino in Europe

Posted on February 19, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The Royal Casino in Ponte a Serraglio was the first public casino in Europe. Gambling was already popular in the area and people would gather in one of the buildings in Bagni Caldi, which now houses the thermal baths, until Carlo Lodovico di Borbone commissioned Giuseppe Pardini to build the casino in 1837.

the casino today

The interior of the building is beautiful and was lovingly restored recently, bringing back to life the walls decorated with the gilded lilies on a blue background, similar to the Florentine iris. The original ornate crystal chandeliers are still there along with some of the original furnishings.

the beautiful ceiling and the original chandeliers

the Florentine lily

2 French gentlemen, Adrien Mathis and Edouard Ginnestet were allowed the management of the gambling. European aristocracy gambled fortunes at “biribosso”, a game of chance using numbered counters, said to be the beginnings of roulette. Several early gambling games were originally played here in Bagni di Lucca. The profits from the casino helped with the management of the spas in the area.

It must have been a fun place to be, with poetry, plays and concerts performed by the famous musicians of the day, including Franz Liszt.

where the musicians used to perform

The casino closed after WWII, but reopened in 2005 after the renovations, which took 2 years. It was used for a time as the information centre and is now available for exhibitions and private functions.

the restaurant

beautiful walls in the restaurant

the well stocked bar

I love the details on the walls and ceilings. I was here when the restoration work was being done and the patient workers would occasionally let me watch them at work. It inspired me to paint my walls at home. I wish they looked as good as the ones at the casino.

decoration on the walls

detail on the ceiling

decoration on the ceiling

the interior took 2 years to restore

The casino is in Ponte a Serraglio, Via del Casino 66/68. There is parking space at Villa Fiori across the river and you can walk to the casino via the passerella (walking bridge).

Bella Bagni di Lucca

A beautiful village in Tuscany

Category Archives: Eating in Bagni di Lucca