One of the things I love the best about Bagni di Lucca is the obvious change in the seasons. I come from a sub tropical climate where there is not a lot of difference.
There is a view that I have been photographing for a year to document the lovely changes.
I like all the seasons ( except when it gets really hot in summer ). Autumn is particularly lovely in Bagni di Lucca…..and it is about to start.
On a beautiful summer evening in July, Dante Alighieri devotees were invited to an evening of poetry. The crowd gathered at the monument to Dante, high above Montefegatesi, to listen to Sergio Frati recite from memory, hymns from the Divine Comedy.
With help from fellow Dante lover, Giovanni Pacini, Sergio had the crowd enthralled.
What a wonderful way to spend a summer evening.
The views from the Dante Monument are spectacular.
It wouldn’t be an Italian evening without food, and after the recital everyone congregated for dinner at a very long table outside the club.
After dinner the group went to the town theatre where there was a historical exhibition of emigration relating to Montefegatesi.
Sergio then recited another three sections of The Divine Comedy, telling the story of Paolo, Francesco, Ugolino and other characters from Dante’s masterpiece.
I am sorry I wasn’t there for what looks like a fun evening. The photos and story were made possible by Emanuele Lotti of the Bagni di Lucca Trekking Club. Thank you Emanuele for helping us to keep up with what is happening in Bagni di Lucca.
Click here to see more on the Bagni di Lucca Trekking Club.
Dante Alighieri keeps watch over the village.
Pisa is only about 1 hour by car from Bagni di Lucca. It is also reachable by bus and train.
Pisa is of course famous for the leaning tower. The campanile (bell tower) of the Duomo began to lean shortly after it was built in 1173 and has survived several attempts to straighten it. It has now been secured and it is possible to once again climb the tower.
Everybody knows that the tower leans, but what may come as a surprise is that it is beautiful. The Piazza dei Miracoli is one of the prettiest squares in all of Italy and the buildings there are spectacular.
It is possible to visit the Duomo, the Baptistry, the tower and the Camposanto (walled cemetery). Head straight for the ticket office where it is possible to buy a ticket for one or all of the buildings.
The Duomo was begun in 1064. It was designed by Buscheto in the Romanesque style with Byzantine influence. The magnificent bronze doors were made in the workshop of Giambologna.
The shiny bits have been lovingly rubbed by visitors.
The round Romanesque Baptistry is the largest in Italy. It was begun in the 12th century.
The interior is quite stark except for the mosaic floor.
The Camposanto was all but destroyed in WWII, but has been beautifully restored.
There are photos of the destruction, making the restored frescoes seem even more amazing.
It is worth the €15 to climb the tower. You can actually feel the lean as you climb the narrow marble stairs. Be sure to go all the way to the top, as our friends did.
Take the time to look at the beautiful detail on the tower.
The Piazza dei Miracoli is popular with tourists with good reason. Go early and book your time to climb the tower at the ticket office. Only 35 people at a time are allowed to climb because the steps are narrow. It is actually very well organised and climbing the tower is fun, don’t miss it.
Take the Lazzi bus from Bagni di Lucca and change in Lucca for Pisa. Ask the driver to let you off at the tower. Take note of the stop. The bus stop back to Lucca is on the opposite side of the road near the entrance to the Piazza dei Miracoli.
For the train, either take the bus or the train to the station in Lucca and catch the train to Pisa. There will be a walk from the station to the tower, but it is not too far.
I had only been to Montefegatesi in winter, so I thought I should take a look in warmer weather. Last time I was in the village I took the high road to the top. This time I went the other way, winding down towards the bottom.
Come for a walk through the tiny streets of Montefegatesi in lovely spring.
This white furry bundle is not a cat.
It is a cute little rabbit roaming free on a terrace.
I’ll be back soon to Bagni di Lucca for late summer and autumn…..can’t wait.
Click here to see the previous post on Montefegatesi to see the high road and the statue of Dante Alighieri watching over the village.
There is a new museum in San Cassiano to house the 14th century sculpture in wood of a horse and rider, identified as San Martino, by artist Jacopo dell Quercia. The sculptor is also famous for the carving of the tomb of Ilaria Guinigi in the Duomo in Lucca, and the Fontana Gaia in Siena, among other things. San Martino was known for his generosity and compassion and it is said that he cut his cloak in half and gave it to a poor freezing peasant to keep him warm in winter.
Previously the sculpture had been kept in the local church.The Chiesa Monumentale di S.Cassiano has been known since 722. The facade is from the period between 9th and 12th centuries.
At 11.30 people began to gather in front of the church for the ceremony.
The mayor of Bagni di Lucca, Dottore Massimo Betti, gave a speech about the importance of the Lima Valley. The area of San Cassiano had a population of 1800 people in the 16th century, at a time when La Villa and Ponte a Serraglio had a combined population of only 570.
After more speeches by those responsible for setting up the museum, the priest and the onlookers toasted the new museum.
Then everyone filed in to see the sculpture.
I was not at the museum opening, but Heather Jarman from Sapori-e-Saperi was, and kindly sent the photos and details of the event so we can all share it. Thank you Heather.
The new museum will be open every Saturday from 9.00 – 12.00 and 15.00 – 19.00. For information and booking at other times call: (39) 0583 809275
For a previous post on San Cassiano click here.
Florence is an easy day trip from Bagni di Lucca. Here are some suggestions for things to see and do in fabulous Florence.
I always begin my day in Florence with coffee and a snack at Giacosa, the gorgeous caffe behind the Roberto Cavalli shop on Via Tornabuone. Click here for more on Giacosa.
I then head to the Palazzo Davanzati in Via Porto Rosso. It is a beautifully preserved Florentine house from the 15th century, full of exquisite decoration. Click here to see this gorgeous house.
You simply can’t go to Florence without seeing the magnificent Duomo. It is also possible to climb the campanile for a view over the cathedral and the city. Click here to see more.
Say hello to Neptune in Piazza Signoria….and David (not the real one) and friends outside the Palazzo Vecchio.
Step inside to see the little Cupid.
Find the little fisherman in the Bargello Museum. Click here for more on the museum.
Cross the Ponte Vecchio to see the jewelry shops and Arno river.
The beautiful Ponte Vecchio.
The Arno from the Ponte Vecchio.
Have lunch at Trattoria Bordino. Click here for more on the restaurant.
Or visit the amazing food market. Click here to see more on the market.
Wander in the Boboli Gardens.
Go up to the exquisite San Miniato to see the church and the gorgeous views over Florence. Click here to see more on this amazing church.
The church is not far from Piazza Michelangelo and is overlooked by many people, which is a crying shame as it is lovely…..and take a look at the view of Florence from here.
Go back to Piazza Michelangelo for more.
Try to fit in a gelato at Grom or Venchi. Click here for Grom and here for Venchi.
You may need more than one day.
Florence is an easy day trip from Bagni di Lucca. It is possible to drive there in about 90 minutes, but driving in the city is difficult and parking is scarce and expensive, so I usually catch the bus. CTT (usually blue) buses go regularly in the mornings from Bagni di Lucca to Lucca and from the bus stop in Piazza Verdi (there is a bus office here where you can get timetables) take the DD (direct) bus to Florence. Once again, it is the blue CTT bus. It takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes to get to the centre of Florence.
UPDATE! The bus no longer drops you near the station, but just outside the centre. You will need to cross the road and look for the tram stop. Take the tram one stop to the station. I believe it is free, but I am not completely sure about that.
The bus trip is very pleasant. I always sit on the river side of the bus to Lucca to get good view of the spectacular Ponte della Maddalena. The bus follows the Serchio river to Lucca and the scenery is gorgeous all the way.
Ponte Maddalena
The bus trip from Lucca to Florence is also interesting. The direct bus takes the autostrada and the scenery along the way is delightful. My favourite part of the trip is the area around Pistoia, where on either side of the road there are plant nurseries. Row upon row of perfectly manicured shrubs and trees are grown to be sold all over Italy and beyond. The photos are taken from the bus so there is a bit of reflection.
Please check the timetables before your travel, but here are the best connections I have found. Take the 7.45am bus from La Villa which gets into Piazza Verdi in time to catch the 8.55am DD bus to Florence. You should arrive at about 10.10am. On the way home I catch the 3.40pm bus from Florence which arrives in Lucca in time to catch the 5.10pm bus to Bagni di Lucca which will get you home by 6.00pm. Or there is a bus from Florence at around 5.15pm which will have you in Lucca to catch the 7.00pm bus to Bagni di Lucca.
If you catch the 7.45am or the 5.10pm bus from Lucca to Bagni di Lucca say hello to Massimo, he is almost always driving these buses.
You can buy bus and train tickets at Tabacchi and some bars. There is also a bus ticket office in Lucca and Florence. Don’t forget to validate your ticket as you enter the bus.
It is also posible to catch a train from Bagni di Lucca to Lucca. It leaves from Fornoli. Local buses will take you to the train station, but probably won’t actually coordinate with any of the trains (don’t ask me why). The road to Fornoli has no footpath for some of the way, so be careful. If you catch a train from Lucca to Florence try to catch an express, which takes about 1 hour 20 minutes. The regular trains take about 2 hours and stop at every station along the way. Validate your ticket before you enter the train at one of the machines on the platform.
The website for the bus is www.vaibus.it
For trains go to www.trenitalia.com
Have a great day in Florence.
Click here for another post about getting to Bagni di Lucca.
Roberto and his lovely assistant Giuliana.
The Corona Hotel in Ponte a Serraglio has a great position beside the river with views across the Lima River. If you are there when the weather is warm, the outdoor terrace is open for meals. They get some very good reviews on Trip Advisor, where the terrace is often mentioned, as well as the friendly service……and the food.
I have had some delicious meals at the restaurant Corona.
The hotel has been recently renovated. Look for Roberto or Giuliana in the inviting reception area.
There are some interesting frescoes dating from the 1800s in one of the waiting rooms.
The rooms are well equipped and some have lovely views over the river.
You can see the spring I wrote about in the previous post. It would be a quick trip across the walking bridge to sample some of Bagni di Lucca’s famous water.
There is a sister hotel in La Villa (1kilometre up river) called the Park Regina, where there is a pool, also available for the Corona visitors.
Giuliana’s little Fiat Bambino matches the hotel perfectly, don’t you think?
Say hello to Roberto and Juliana if you visit.
Bagni di Lucca is well known for its mineral springs. People have been coming to the area for centuries for the healing waters. As well as bathing in the therapeutic waters, it is possible to drink from the many springs.
There is one in Ponte a Serraglio near the passarella. I often see people stopping to fill their bottles here. Why buy bottled water from the supermarket when you can come here for delicious drinking water?
These 2 stopped by after canoeing on the river.
Sometimes the temptation to do more than drink the water is too much to resist.
This little boy had shed his clothes and was enjoying the feeling of the warm water on a lovely sunny day. His mum was watching from nearby.
Heather Jarman lives in Casabasciana, one of the gorgeous mountain villages of Bagni di Lucca. In her career as an archeologist she researched the early history of agriculture. She is passionately interested in food, from growing and production to cooking and eating.
Her knowledge of food production in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana is amazing. I first met her last year when she took me along to meet a local cheese maker. We set off into the mountains and met the delightful Marzia who spent the morning showing us how to make cheese and ricotta. Click here for the full story.
On another adventure we went high in the mountains to a village called Lupinaia for their chestnut festival. It was one of the most delightful afternoons I have ever had, topped off with a walk back to the car along an old mule trail.
Click here to see more of the very beautiful Lupinaia.
This year we headed off to the Slow Food soup finals in Lucca and got to try some delicious soup and listen to some great folk music. Click here to see more.
I have learned how to make bread using traditional methods in a wood fired oven with Paolo after visiting his gorgeous farm in the Garfagnana. He grows farro and breeds beautiful cattle. Click here to see the gorgeous cows.
That’s Paolo blessing the bread as it goes in the oven.
I went with Heather to the huntsmen’s dinner in Casabasciana, where we helped the hunters eat the cinghiale (wild boar) they had caught during the season. Both the food and the company were wonderful after we had worked up our appetites with a walk around the beautiful village at sunset.
Click here to see more of Casabasciana.
We went to the Lucca Wine and Food festival and met lots of local wine makers.
And we ate some wonderful local food. Click here to see more.
Quite possibly best of all she introduced me to the delightful concerts in Lucca organised by Mattia. I became a regular visitor on Tuesday and Friday nights. Click here to find out more, or check the website http://iconcertidegliangeli.com
There is a never ending list of things to do in Bagni di Lucca and the nearby areas…..and Heather knows all about them. She organises tours for small groups to do things you would never find in a guide book. In her own words she is “Making tourism work to sustain the rural economy and the people. …you will encounter an endangered lifestyle which we don’t want to disappear.”
Visit her website for more information…..www.sapori-e-saperi.com
Bella Bagni di Lucca 