Una notte spettacolare

Posted on September 12, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

On Saturday night at La Rondine Gallery in Ponte a Serraglio there was an evening of spectacular entertainment. Jake Cartwright was joined by his friends, Guy Dowsett and Henna Kaikula for a performance of original music and acrobatic brilliance. Jake and Guy provided the beautiful music and Henna amazed the audience with her charismatic contortion.

In the words of others, Henna ” has been called a graceful snakewoman and acrobat who can do anything with her body” and ” seems to be able to twist herself inside out in a playful defiance against the laws of nature.” I will add that she is also charming and engages with her audience delightfully.

I wish that she wasn’t so fast…..then I would have been able to get better photos of her performance.

The tiny gallery filled with people spilling out on to the street to see the performers. Everybody was delighted and we were all left wanting more.

I hope there are lots more evenings like this in Ponte a Serraglio.

The Anglican cemetery gets a makeover

Posted on September 9, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

On Saturday 8th September there was a small ceremony to celebrate the restoration of the Anglican cemetery in Bagni di Lucca.

The cemetery was opened in 1842. Henry and Elizabeth Stisted obtained permission from Carlo Lodovico, Prince of Lucca, to build an Anglican church and a Cemetery of Anglican rite for the British community living in Bagni di Lucca at the time.

There are 139 people buried in the cemetery. Appropriately, Henry and Elizabeth Stisted have their final resting place there. Evangelina Whipple settled in Bagni di Lucca in 1912 and worked to help the families of refugees and was called to the front in WWI. She wrote a book about Bagni di Lucca…A famous corner of Tuscany. She died in London, but wanted to be buried next to her friends in her adopted home.

There are several other well known names buried in the cemetery, including Rose Cleveland, the sister of US President Stephen Grover Cleveland and Ouida, a famous novelist.

Quite a large crowd gathered for the celebration, many of whom had never been to the cemetery before. Work has begun on the resoration. Rows of cypress trees have been planted to replace the original plantings. The grass has been cut and the overgrowth removed and some of the tombstones have been cleaned.

Visitors sign a book to commemorate the opening.

Local historian Dottore Cherubini and our mayor Dottore Betti spoke at length on the importance of the cemetery and the need for the restoration to be completed.

A large crowd attended the celebration.

Some of the sites have been cleaned….but there are many more in need of restoration.

Henry Stisted’s grave.

The grave of Louise de La Ramee, known as Ouida. Her tomb was made by sculptor Luigi Lucchese Norfini.

I actually liked the graves as they were, but I do understand that some would deteriorate without restoration. I think it is wonderful that people care enough about Bagni di Lucca’s history to take care of it in this way.

I did a post last year about the cemetery last year on Bagni di Lucca and Beyond. Click here to see the cemetery before the restoration had begun.

Changing seasons

Posted on September 4, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

One of the things I love the best about Bagni di Lucca is the obvious change in the seasons. I come from a sub tropical climate where there is not a lot of difference.

There is a view that I have been photographing for a year to document the lovely changes.

I like all the seasons ( except when it gets really hot in summer ). Autumn is particularly lovely in Bagni di Lucca…..and it is about to start.

A celebration of Dante Alighieri in Montefegatesi

Posted on August 31, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

On a beautiful summer evening in July, Dante Alighieri devotees were invited to an evening of poetry. The crowd gathered at the monument to Dante, high above Montefegatesi, to listen to Sergio Frati recite from memory, hymns from the Divine Comedy.

With help from fellow Dante lover, Giovanni Pacini, Sergio had the crowd enthralled.

What a wonderful way to spend a summer evening.

The views from the Dante Monument are spectacular.

It wouldn’t be an Italian evening without food, and after the recital everyone congregated for dinner at a very long table outside the club.

After dinner the group went to the town theatre where there was a historical exhibition of emigration relating to Montefegatesi.

Sergio then recited another three sections of The Divine Comedy, telling the story of Paolo, Francesco, Ugolino and other characters from Dante’s masterpiece.

I am sorry I wasn’t there for what looks like a fun evening. The photos and story were made possible by Emanuele Lotti of the Bagni di Lucca Trekking Club. Thank you Emanuele for helping us to keep up with what is happening in Bagni di Lucca.

Click here to see more on the Bagni di Lucca Trekking Club.

Dante Alighieri keeps watch over the village.

Montefegatesi revisited

Posted on August 24, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

I had only been to Montefegatesi in winter, so I thought I should take a look in warmer weather. Last time I was in the village I took the high road to the top. This time I went the other way, winding down towards the bottom.

Come for a walk through the tiny streets of Montefegatesi in lovely spring.

This white furry bundle is not a cat.

It is a cute little rabbit roaming free on a terrace.

I’ll be back soon to Bagni di Lucca for late summer and autumn…..can’t wait.

Click here to see the previous post on Montefegatesi to see the high road and the statue of Dante Alighieri watching over the village.

The opening of a new museum in San Cassiano

Posted on August 20, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

There is a new museum in San Cassiano to house the 14th century sculpture in wood of a horse and rider, identified as San Martino, by artist Jacopo dell Quercia. The sculptor is also famous for the carving of the tomb of Ilaria Guinigi in the Duomo in Lucca, and the Fontana Gaia in Siena, among other things. San Martino was known for his generosity and compassion and it is said that he cut his cloak in half and gave it to a poor freezing peasant to keep him warm in winter.

Previously the sculpture had been kept in the local church.The Chiesa Monumentale di S.Cassiano has been known since 722. The facade is from the period between 9th and 12th centuries.

At 11.30 people began to gather in front of the church for the ceremony.

The mayor of Bagni di Lucca, Dottore Massimo Betti, gave a speech about the importance of the Lima Valley. The area of San Cassiano had a population of 1800 people in the 16th century, at a time when La Villa and Ponte a Serraglio had a combined population of only 570.

After more speeches by those responsible for setting up the museum, the priest and the onlookers toasted the new museum.

Then everyone filed in to see the sculpture.

I was not at the museum opening, but Heather Jarman from Sapori-e-Saperi was, and kindly sent the photos and details of the event so we can all share it. Thank you Heather.

The new museum will be open every Saturday from 9.00 – 12.00 and 15.00 – 19.00. For information and booking at other times call: (39) 0583 809275

For a previous post on San Cassiano click here.

Take the bus to Florence

Posted on August 12, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Florence is an easy day trip from Bagni di Lucca. It is possible to drive there in about 90 minutes, but driving in the city is difficult and parking is scarce and expensive, so I usually catch the bus. CTT (usually blue) buses go regularly in the mornings from Bagni di Lucca to Lucca and from the bus stop in Piazza Verdi (there is a bus office here where you can get timetables) take the DD (direct) bus to Florence. Once again, it is the blue CTT bus. It takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes to get to the centre of Florence.

UPDATE! The bus no longer drops you near the station, but just outside the centre. You will need to cross the road and look for the tram stop. Take the tram one stop to the station. I believe it is free, but I am not completely sure about that.

The bus trip is very pleasant. I always sit on the river side of the bus to Lucca to get good view of the spectacular Ponte della Maddalena. The bus follows the Serchio river to Lucca and the scenery is gorgeous all the way.

Ponte Maddalena

The bus trip from Lucca to Florence is also interesting. The direct bus takes the autostrada and the scenery along the way is delightful. My favourite part of the trip is the area around Pistoia, where on either side of the road there are plant nurseries. Row upon row of perfectly manicured shrubs and trees are grown to be sold all over Italy and beyond. The photos are taken from the bus so there is a bit of reflection.

Please check the timetables before your travel, but here are the best connections I have found. Take the 7.45am bus from La Villa which gets into Piazza Verdi in time to catch the 8.55am DD bus to Florence. You should arrive at about 10.10am. On the way home I catch the 3.40pm bus from Florence which arrives in Lucca in time to catch the 5.10pm bus to Bagni di Lucca which will get you home by 6.00pm. Or there is a bus from Florence at around 5.15pm which will have you in Lucca to catch the 7.00pm bus to Bagni di Lucca.

If you catch the 7.45am or the 5.10pm bus from Lucca to Bagni di Lucca say hello to Massimo, he is almost always driving these buses.

You can buy bus and train tickets at Tabacchi and some bars. There is also a bus ticket office in Lucca and Florence. Don’t forget to validate your ticket as you enter the bus.

It is also posible to catch a train from Bagni di Lucca to Lucca. It leaves from Fornoli. Local buses will take you to the train station, but probably won’t actually coordinate with any of the trains (don’t ask me why). The road to Fornoli has no footpath for some of the way, so be careful. If you catch a train from Lucca to Florence try to catch an express, which takes about 1 hour 20 minutes. The regular trains take about 2 hours and stop at every station along the way. Validate your ticket before you enter the train at one of the machines on the platform.

The website for the bus is www.vaibus.it

For trains go to www.trenitalia.com

Have a great day in Florence.

Click here for another post about getting to Bagni di Lucca.

Meet Roberto and Giuliana from the Corona

Posted on August 9, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Roberto and his lovely assistant Giuliana.

The Corona Hotel in Ponte a Serraglio has a great position beside the river with views across the Lima River. If you are there when the weather is warm, the outdoor terrace is open for meals. They get some very good reviews on Trip Advisor, where the terrace is often mentioned, as well as the friendly service……and the food.

I have had some delicious meals at the restaurant Corona.

The hotel has been recently renovated. Look for Roberto or Giuliana in the inviting reception area.

There are some interesting frescoes dating from the 1800s in one of the waiting rooms.

The rooms are well equipped and some have lovely views over the river.

You can see the spring I wrote about in the previous post. It would be a quick trip across the walking bridge to sample some of Bagni di Lucca’s famous water.

There is a sister hotel in La Villa (1kilometre up river) called the Park Regina, where there is a pool, also available for the Corona visitors.

Giuliana’s little Fiat Bambino matches the hotel perfectly, don’t you think?

Say hello to Roberto and Juliana if you visit.

www.coronaregina.it

Mountain springs

Posted on August 6, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Bagni di Lucca is well known for its mineral springs. People have been coming to the area for centuries for the healing waters. As well as bathing in the therapeutic waters, it is possible to drink from the many springs.

There is one in Ponte a Serraglio near the passarella. I often see people stopping to fill their bottles here. Why buy bottled water from the supermarket when you can come here for delicious drinking water?

These 2 stopped by after canoeing on the river.

Sometimes the temptation to do more than drink the water is too much to resist.

This little boy had shed his clothes and was enjoying the feeling of the warm water on a lovely sunny day. His mum was watching from nearby.

Meet Heather from Casabasciana

Posted on August 3, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Heather Jarman lives in Casabasciana, one of the gorgeous mountain villages of Bagni di Lucca. In her career as an archeologist she researched the early history of agriculture. She is passionately interested in food, from growing and production to cooking and eating.

Her knowledge of food production in the Bagni di Lucca and Garfagnana is amazing. I first met her last year when she took me along to meet a local cheese maker. We set off into the mountains and met the delightful Marzia who spent the morning showing us how to make cheese and ricotta. Click here for the full story.

On another adventure we went high in the mountains to a village called Lupinaia for their chestnut festival. It was one of the most delightful afternoons I have ever had, topped off with a walk back to the car along an old mule trail.

Click here to see more of the very beautiful Lupinaia.

This year we headed off to the Slow Food soup finals in Lucca and got to try some delicious soup and listen to some great folk music. Click here to see more.

I have learned how to make bread using traditional methods in a wood fired oven with Paolo after visiting his gorgeous farm in the Garfagnana. He grows farro and breeds beautiful cattle. Click here to see the gorgeous cows.

That’s Paolo blessing the bread as it goes in the oven.

I went with Heather to the huntsmen’s dinner in Casabasciana, where we helped the hunters eat the cinghiale (wild boar) they had caught during the season. Both the food and the company were wonderful after we had worked up our appetites with a walk around the beautiful village at sunset.

Click here to see more of Casabasciana.

We went to the Lucca Wine and Food festival and met lots of local wine makers.

And we ate some wonderful local food. Click here to see more.

Quite possibly best of all she introduced me to the delightful concerts in Lucca organised by Mattia. I became a regular visitor on Tuesday and Friday nights. Click here to find out more, or check the website http://iconcertidegliangeli.com

There is a never ending list of things to do in Bagni di Lucca and the nearby areas…..and Heather knows all about them. She organises tours for small groups to do things you would never find in a guide book. In her own words she is “Making tourism work to sustain the rural economy and the people. …you will encounter an endangered lifestyle which we don’t want to disappear.”

Visit her website for more information…..www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Bella Bagni di Lucca

A beautiful village in Tuscany

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