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Carnevale Fornoli
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Monthly Archives: January 2016
A dark time in Bagni di Lucca
During WWII the Hotel Terme in Bagni Caldi was chosen by the Interior Minister of the Fascist R.S.I (Italian Social Republic) as the district concentration camp.
Between December 1943 and January 1944 more than 100 Jews were interned in the camp.
The larger group was composed of almost 60 foreign Jews, sent to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana during the second half of 1941 in “free internment”.
A small group of foreign Jews, who were already free in BdL, and about 30 Italian Jews arrested in other places in the district joined them.
On 23rd January 1944 the interned Jews were transported from Bagni di Lucca to Florence, then to Milan. On 30th January they were sent to Auschwitz.
Only 5 out of more than 100 Jews from Bagni di Lucca survived deportation.
The information came from researchgate.net.
Parking tip
It can be a bit difficult for new visitors to Italy to understand the parking signs.
In many places in Bagni di Lucca (and other places) you will see this sign.
It means you can park for free, but only for 2 hours, between the hours of 8.00am to 8.00pm. Outside these hours parking for longer periods is OK.
The little dial on the bottom left of the sign indicates that you need to set your timer.
In your car you should have a timer. Set this at the time you park your car and remember to come back before the time expires.
Your hire car should have one. If not, I have found them for a couple of euros at Tabacchi and some newsagents.
If you forget to set your timer that is no excuse. If the police come you will be issued with a fine.
Castiglione di Garfagnana
After I left Pieve Fosciana I drove a little further on to Castiglione di Garfagnana which sits at 545 metres above the Esarulo River, a tributary of the Serchio River.
The town dates back to a Roman Castra, called Castrum Leonis (Lion’s Castle), built to oversee the valley that leads to the San Pelligrino Pass. The castle was built between1170 and 1227. It became Lucca’s most important garrison in the Serchio valley. In 1390 the “Rocca” or castle was extended and towers were built.
Some of the Rocca remains and you can walk through the narrow streets of the town to the top.
There is a road around the edge of the town outside the wall, offering excellent views of the castle and the surrounding countryside.
I entered the town through the Porta del Ponte Levatoio. It was mid afternoon and the town was deserted, leaving me to wander alone.
I went up into the old castle for some gorgeous views over the town.
Coming down from the top I came across the Church of San Pietro which was built in 723 by 2 Lombard brothers, but was rebuilt in the 12th century by Bishop Guido of Lucca.
I walked on through the pretty streets as it began to rain.
I will return when the town is a bit busier, I am sure there is more to discover.
Il Pozzo
Bagni di Lucca is on the edge of the Garfagnana. The area lies between the Apennine and Apuan Alps in the upper valley of the Serchio river. It is almost entirely mountainous and heavily wooded.
It is also dotted with pretty villages, which will take years to discover. I recently visited Pieve Fosciana. It is tiny, with a cluster of houses around the church of St John Battista, one of the most ancient in Garfagnana.
Come for a little walk through Pieve Fosciana…
There are lots of narrow cobble stone laneways and pretty gardens, the usual interesting doorways and building decorations.
I was impressed with this house in particular. The residents have gone to some trouble with the facade.
The main reason for my visit to Pieve Fosciana was to try restaurant Il Pozzo. I have heard it is one of the best in Garfagnana.
They have an indoor dining area and a very big terrace. I was the first there for lunch, but it soon filled up, mostly with local workers. You know a restaurant is good when the locals arrive in number.
The restaurant prides itself on using fresh, local ingredients served in a traditional way, with a slightly modern twist.
I ordered the pasta with lobster.
Followed by guinea fowl with truffles…they were both excellent.
The service was very friendly and I could see that most of the other patrons were regulars. They also do a workmans’ lunch for a set price…I will try that next time.
If you can drag yourself away from the very good restaurants in Bagni di Lucca, try Il Pozzo, I’m sure you will like it.
Then and now…Bagno alla Villa
There is a small piazza above La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. Bagno alla Villa has one of the many spas that used to be a popular place to “take the waters”.
The spa is still there but is not operating.
The building has been restored and there is even a pool in the nearby property, Villa Ada.
Work has been done to restore several of the baths in Bagni di Lucca. Soon they will fall into disrepair again. It is a puzzle to me why the administration is not doing more to encourage someone to operate the spas and help bring people and employment to the area.
…any takers?
Bella Bagni di Lucca 