Pian di Fiume, an agriturismo in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on March 22, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The Agriturismo Pian di Fiume takes its name from the medieval hamlet which has been lovingly restored and brought back to life. Guests now stay in the old houses that made up the tiny village.

Pian di Fiume is 2 kilometres from La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca. Take the road towards Abetone and look for the bridge on the left side of the road.

The agriturismo sits lazily beside the Lima River. At the river level there is a flat plain where the animals are kept. There are chickens, turkeys, horses, sheep, goats and a herd of cinta senese pigs, the semi wild pigs that feed on acorns and chestnuts. They also keep bees and the honey they produce is for sale.

Surely a face that only a mother could love.

Up a very steep dirt road is the restaurant, accommodation and pool.

The setting is lovely.

There is a tiny church from the original village.

Even though we arrived unannounced, Daniela made us a delicious lunch.

Flower shaped ravioli made by Daniela.

There is a lovely dining room.

But we chose to eat on the outside terrace with a view over the valley.

Thank you Daniela for our lovely lunch.

On the way out we spotted a little plaque with Adriano’s name on it. He felt the need to pose beside it.

In summer the river is a great place to swim.

Perhaps you will be joined by the cinta senese who like to drink there.

www.piandifiume.it

info@piandifiume.it

39 0583 805751

Dinner with the huntsmen of Casabasciana

Posted on March 19, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The name Casabasciana probably comes from the Roman settler called Bassius, who built his house here. The town is perched on the side of the hill about 4 kilometres up from Fabbriche di Casabasciana on the SS12.
My friend and I were invited by Heather Jarman from Sapori e Saperi to join the dinner put on by the Squadra di Cacciatori , the hunting team from Casabasciana, an offer too good to refuse, especially since the proceeds of the evening are to be used to renovate a building in town to provide help for some of the older residents.
We went up to the village in the late afternoon to discover the delights of Casabasciana.
The streets of the village are narrow, winding and steep.

There are lots of lovely old buildings to see.

I spotted a small statue of the Madonna in an alcove opposite the main church.

She was standing on an interesting base.

We wandered to the outskirts of the town where the buildings end and some of the farming area still exists.

We met Giovanni with his tractor loaded with wood.

He has lived all his life in Casabasciana and proudly showed us the house that belonged to his grandfather which he has renovated for his daughter.

He keeps a very neat wood pile.

Spring is coming to Casabasciana.

We met Heather who showed us some of the things we missed.

The communal washing area, which is still used.

Her garden shed.

Another little shrine.

Beautiful building decoration.

The oldest, and apparently the best water supply.

The lovely little church beyond the village.

The fresco inside the old church.

We were on the edge of town to see the sunset.

We went to the main square which looked beautiful at night.

The town is tiny, but it has a bar and an excellent shop which stocks everything.

We had a cup of tea in Heather’s lovely kitchen.

Her house has lots of gorgeous rooms.

Finally it was time for dinner.

Tommaso and Anna Rosa serving the crostini.

First course.

Patiently waiting for the next delicious course.

The pasta.

The chingiale arrives.

The vegetables are served by Dalida.

Renato carving the porchetta.

My porchetta.

Alfredo enjoying his stinco (shin bone)

Pannacotta for dolce.

And as is that wasn’t enough, there were frittelle di San Giuseppe to follow.

If you get the chance to attend any of these local dinners, do so, you will love it.

Take a look at Heather’s website and blog. She knows all about the local festivals.

www.sapori-e-saperi.com

Casabasciana from above.

A visit to San Cassiano di Controne

Posted on March 17, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The hamlets that make up San Cassiano were once quite highly populated, but like many of the villages of Bagni di Lucca, it is now a quiet place. We parked the car at the bottom of the village and walked up towards the church and the main square. Along the way we met Arnoldo and his son Fabio who had been collecting fig cuttings to plant.

Arnoldo speaks good English as a result of living in America for 15 years. He came back to his home in San Cassiano in 1971 and has lived here ever since. You can’t blame him, the village is lovely. It sits high on the hill with sunshine all day and spectacular views all around.

He told us that there were 7 parts to San Cassiano. The village will obviously require several visits.

We walked past the War Memorial with the lists of the town’s men who have died in several wars. The list is too long.

Opposite the memorial is the beautiful church, Chiesa Monumentale di S.Cassiano.

The church has been known since 722. The facade is from the period between the 9th and 12th centuries. It was closed so we couldn’t go inside, but the decoration on the outside is lovely.

The campanile is the oldest part of the church.

Spring is coming to San Cassiano.

We were there in time to see a peak hour traffic jam.

Somebody had parked in front of the butcher shop (why not?) and with another car parked on the other side of the road, nobody could get through. Everybody just stopped and had a chat and the customer eventually came out and they went on their way. There was a bit of horn blowing, but not too much.

The mountains behind San Cassiano are quiet spectacular.

There is still evidence of the landslides from the 18th century which wiped out the communities of Celle and Cerro.

The area is beautifully rustic.

There are excellent views of neighbouring villages.

We had a lovely view of San Cassiano in the late afternoon sun as we left.

I have to return to San Cassiano as a restaurant that I particularly like to eat at was not open. Soon spring will really arrive and the village will look completely different on my next visit.

Meet Paola and Massimo (and Toby) from Anchiano

Posted on March 14, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

This is Toby.

Anchiano is actually part of the nearby town of Borgo a Mozzano, but lovely Paola and Massimo are regulars at Il Monaco at Ponte a Serraglio, so I have made them honorary Bagni di Luccans.

Paola invited me for lunch recently with a promise that she would show me her pretty village. I know that Paola is a great cook (she also gives wonderful cooking lessons) so I was delighted to accept the invitation.

I’ll show you lunch first, then their beautiful house and the village.

Paola at work in the kitchen.

They have done a wonderful job renovating 2 old houses in Anchiano. They live in one and rent the other occasionally.

After lunch we headed off with Paola as our guide to discover Anchiano. I shouldn’t have waited so long to go to Anchiano, it is quite lovely.The village is not far off the road which goes between Lucca and Bagni di Lucca.

It is a very pretty little village with beautiful views of the surrounding area from some of the higher parts of the town.

We wandered through the town, heading slowly up to the church on the top of the hill.

First stop was the old washing area which once would have been a very busy part of the village.

The water pressure is quite something.

It is a fun place for the children to play.

The streets are narrow and winding, but mostly flat so the walking is easy.

As is the case in all of these villages, there are always interesting things to discover.

Toby met a friend along the way.

The church looks quite impressive from below.

The war memorial near the church.

The village from the church grounds.

Just below the church is a part of the Gottica Line, with fortifications left over from WWII.

The cemetery below the church is beautifully kept.

The residents come regularly to tend the graves and water the plants.

Everyone has their own water bottle.

Soon spring will come and fill the village with colour.

The wisteria vine will soon be covered with gorgeous lilac blossoms.

If you would like to arrange cooking lessons with Paola email her at …..paola.mori@alice.it.

Paola is a lot of fun and her cooking lessons are great. If you greet her in English don’t be surprised if she responds with a lovely Scottish accent. Her father was born in Barga, the most Scottish town in Italy.

Paola’s ducks said goodbye as we were leaving.

Information for locals…. There is to be a dinner dance at the Hotel Milano on 23rd March. That sounds like fun!

Early signs of spring in Bagni di Lucca

Posted on March 10, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The weather is warming up and the days are getting longer. Spring is getting ready to show its lovely face in Bagni di Lucca.

These pretty crocuses were growing beside the road, I almost stepped on them.

Snowdrops growing on the rock wall on the way to La Villa.

Tiny violets are appearing.

These terraces are covered with crocuses.

My daffodils are growing.

It won’t be long now and the trees will turn green before our eyes.

The old Romanic church in Corsena

Posted on March 8, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

The Chiesa Parrocchiale di San Pietro in Corsena, above La Villa, dates from the 11th century and possibly even earlier. It is one of the most interesting in the area. I wandered up there recently and luckily found it open.

It was a bit dark inside, so the photos are not as good as they could be. The wooden altar and the pews date from the 17th century.

The gabled facade is not the original one. Early in the 20th century the old double lancet window was replaced with the rose which is there now, pity really. On the right there was once a small porch, older than the facade, which was exterior to the original church. It has been amalgamated into the building as you can see from the brickwork.

It is possible to see the mix of building materials, showing various repairs.

The bell tower dates from the 17th century.

The church may date from as far back as the mid 7th century, when the Lombards (or Longobards) became Christians. Generally, towns grew around a castle and a church and this is most likely the original church for the area.

Countess Matilda di Canossa ( of Devil’s Bridge fame) loved the area and is said to have contributed to work on the church in the 12th century.

Take the time to walk up from La Villa to see this lovely old church. There are also good views from the courtyard in front of the church.

Lunch at Cavallino Bianco in Benabbio

Posted on March 5, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

I had heard that there was a good restaurant in Benabbio so on a quiet winter Sunday I made my way to the hilltop village. Benabbio is about 5 kilometres uphill from La Villa. Take the road towards Abetone, turn right at the Benabbio sign and follow the winding road.

The road to Benabbio.

There are some lovely buildings in Benabbio and some spectacular views, even in winter.

It was easy to find the restaurant. It is right on the tiny piazza in the centre of the village

The restaurant was full for Sunday lunch….a good sign.

The menu was not written, but the very cheerful owner told me what was on offer for the day. I started with delicious antipasto.

These little pillows of deliciousness are pasta fritta. It is a bread dough that is fried rather than baked.

For those who don’t like pigeons, here is your revenge, risotto al piccione. I do like pigeons, but I pushed my guilt aside.

I was also given some home made pasta to try…..and it was very good.

I watched some wonderful looking dishes being delivered and eaten very quickly at nearby tables. I clearly need to come back to try some of the other choices.

Dessert was too good to refuse.

There is a downstairs bar as well as the upstairs restaurant.

Here is the lovely man who served me. I didn’t catch his name. I really will have to go back.

Cavallino Bianco, Piazza S. Maria, 13. Benabbio
http://www.ilcavallinobianco.com
(+39) 0583 804089

Bagno alla Villa

Posted on March 3, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

If you walk up from La Villa, the commercial centre of Bagni di Lucca, or down the hill from Colle you will arrive at the quaint little hamlet near Bagno alla Villa, the old thermal spa. Along with Colle and Corsena this is the oldest part of Bagni di Lucca.
The Piazza del Bagno is very pretty and was home to several famous people in the past. The French philosopher Michel de Montaigne stayed here to take the waters in an attempt to cure his kidney stones. The English poets Shelley and Bryon also stayed here. There is a lovely collection of houses here and it is easy to see that it was once very grand.

The old baths have been recently restored. It would be wonderful if they were open again and the area could once again be a hive of activity.

Nearby is Villa Ada, the 16th century residence of the De’Nobile family. It was restored on the second half of the 19th century. It would make a wonderful hotel. We just need somebody with lots of money to come along and restore it once again.

The grounds must have been stunning. There are lovely old stairways and a covered walkway which has become overgrown, such a pity.

Inside Villa Ada is the pretty little marble statue which has become the symbol of Bagni di Lucca.

It is an easy walk uphill from La Villa, just head up past the English church and the swimming pool and keep going. It is particularly lovely in spring when it is possible to imagine how grand this area must have once been.
If you know somebody with lots and lots of money, send them along, they might just like to take on a renovation project.

Meet Emilio Ferrari from Colle

Posted on February 29, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

101

To begin my quest to visit and photograph the villages that make up Bagni di Lucca, I decided the first should be Colle. I’m not sure that Colle is actually a village. It is a delightful collection of houses that I can see on the hill directly in front of my house. It always looks beautiful and I have walked there many times.

looking towards Colle from my balcony

Colle in spring

looking up from Ponte a Serraglio

from the walking bridge

I wanted to know a bit more about Colle apart from what I had discovered myself and it was suggested that I talk to Emilio Ferrari, who was born in Colle 80 years ago. Emilio and his lovely wife Alfa kindly invited me into their home and were happy to talk about their lives in the village. Before I go on, don’t you just love the name Emilio Ferrari, and what of the chances of a Ferrari marrying an Alfa???? And they drive a Fiat.

Emilio told me that Colle is actually the oldest part of Bagni di Lucca. There used to be a castle on top of the hill just past houses that are there now. It was owned by a count and everybody living in the surrounding area worked for him, cultivating the land on the hill leading down to the Lima valley. Later on the city of Lucca had the castle destroyed to prevent it falling into the hands of Federico Barbarossa who was fighting in Italy in the 1100s.

The little village survived and the people living there grew grapevines all over the hillsides. The hills were terraced and vegetables were grown as well. Sheep, goats and cattle were kept for their milk and to provide meat. Now there are only a few vineyards left, one of which belongs to Emilio, the one I can see from my house.

Emilio’s house in Colle

Emilio was born in the house where he lives today. He left Italy in 1951 to work in Brazil. He recalls have to pay a sum of money as a guarantee that he would not run off to Florida, a popular place for young Italians at the time. He also spent time working in France. He eventually returned to Colle and married Alfa, a local girl from a little further down the hill. They have been married for 44 years and have 2 adult children.

Alfa and Emilio

There are only about dozen people living in Colle now and it is difficult to believe that it was once the hub of what is now Bagni di Lucca. The building next door to Emilio once housed the Comune office.

the door to the old Comune

autumn at the Comune building

The walk up to Colle is quite steep, especially the last bit, but the views make the trek worthwhile. There are magnificent views of the mountains and the Lima valley below.

a view from Colle

bee hives in Colle

snow on the mountains

an old house in Colle

an old wine press

Emilio’s family of cats

If you keep walking through the village there is a path which takes you to the top of the hill, where there is a picnic ground and a monument to the Alpini soldiers.

the path to the top

the little house on the track to the top

Chiesina Alpini

After climbing to the top you will need to retrace your steps back to the village.

The best views of all are from Emilio’s balcony.

the view from Emilio’s house

my house beside the bridge

Alfa and Emilio

To walk to Colle from Ponte a Serraglio, take the road between the post office and the Bridge Hotel and head towards Bagni Caldi, keep going uphill and follow the signs. The road to the top is surrounded by chestnut trees and the walk is lovely. There is a path on the other side of the hill that takes you down to La Villa.

I like to walk to Colle on misty winter mornings.

an early morning winter view of Colle

Emilio is often at Il Monaco in Ponte a Serraglio, where he likes to have his morning coffee. Say hello if you see him, he likes a chat.

Carnevale at Viareggio

Posted on February 26, 2012 by Debra Kolkka

Viareggio is only about an hour away from Bagni di Lucca, so it would be silly not to go to Carnevale. It is a mad crush of people, strollers, dogs, the occasional cat and the most wonderful floats. Here is a small selection.

As you can see politicians come in for some pretty fierce criticism. Berlusconi still features heavily and Mario Monte made a few appearances.

People love to dress up to come to Carnevale.

It starts early.

I was covered with confetti at one stage and a large bird was making for my head in this photo.

Carnevale is on again next Saturday 3rd and Sunday 4th March. The parades start at 3.00pm but you can go to the area earlier to see the floats before they start to move. Tickets cost €15. Go early to get a car park.

Bella Bagni di Lucca

A beautiful village in Tuscany

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