What to do with the casino?

Bagni di Lucca has the first purpose built casino in Europe. It was built in 1837 and operated as a casino until 1945.

Casino BdL

Casino BdL

It was restored about 14 years ago and is stunning inside. The work was being done when I first arrived in Ponte a Serraglio and I enjoyed watching the workmen bring the beautiful interior back to life.

Casino BdL

 Casino BdL

It was open for some time as the information centre for Bagni di Lucca. The wonderful Leda worked there and took visitors on guided tours throughout the building, telling tales of times gone by when Puccini and Liszt played for guests.

Now it is open only for events, which seems a pity. Many visitors coming to Bagni di Lucca would like to see inside and ask constantly why it is not open to the public.

There is a thought by many residents that it would be a good idea to reopen it as a visitor and information centre. That way it would be open to the public and be a place of interest. I have been asked by some to see if this would be popular.

What do you think?

If you agree that it would be a good idea to have the casino building open and put to use why not let the Comune know? Drop in and have a chat if you live in the area or send them an email. The website is http://comunebagnidilucca.com

 

Autumn in the chestnut forest

Just before I left Italy in early November I drove up to Montefegatesi hoping to see some autumn colour in the forest just outside the village. I was a bit early, but I could see the changes.

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi Mine

Montefegatesi

Montefegatesi

It is always good to stop at the little church beside the road on the way down the mountain.

Montefegatesi

By now the leaves will probably be gone and the scene will be wintery. That is wonderful too.

Necci in Montefegatesi

It has been a good year for chestnuts this year. Try some delicious chestnut pancakes in Montefegatesi on Sunday.

Montefegatesi

If you can’t make it on Sunday perhaps you could make your own necci.

You will need…

2 cups chestnut flour.

slightly less than 2 cups water

a pinch of salt

1 cup of ricotta (sweetened with a little sugar or honey if you wish)

Place the flour in a bowl with the salt. Slowly pour the water into the flour and stir with a whisk until the batter is smooth and there are no lumps.

Heat a little olive oil in a frypan and pour in a large spoonful of batter. Swirl the pan to spread the batter evenly. Cook until the bottom is golden then flip and cook the other side.

Stack the necci on a plate until all the batter is used.

Whip the ricotta and spread on the necci and roll up.

Eat.

Here is one I enjoyed at the chestnut festival in Lucchio last year.

Necci

It took me a while to acquire a taste for necci, but I now find them delicious.

A change in the weather

We have had a dramatic change in the weather. The lovely sunny days gave way to torrential rain, howling wind, thunder and lightning in the last couple of days.

The river has turned brown and is moving quickly.

Bagni di Lucca

Bagni di Lucca

The first showers made for some lovely autumn scenes.

Autumn Bagni di Lucca

Autumn Bagni di Lucca

 

Autumn Bagni di Lucca

Autumn Bagni di Lucca

Autumn Bagni di Lucca

Autumn Bagni di Lucca

Autumn Bagni di Lucca

I hope the weather is fine for these 2 events coming up in Bagni di Lucca.

Events Bagni di Lucca

Events Bagni di Lucca

The sun is out now. Let’s hope it lasts for a while.

Topo Gigio

On the road from Bagni di Lucca to Abetone at Fabbriche di Casabascana you will find Trattoria Bar Topo Gigio.

Topo Gigio

Topo Gigio

I had heard it was a fun place to stop for coffee or lunch so with some friends I decided to try it.

The tables were all full, but fortunately somebody left as we arrived and we found a spot. It is always a good sign when a place is packed at lunch time.

The service is brisk and friendly and soon our lunch arrived.

Topo Gigio

We ordered ravioli with the Gigio sauce, which is deliciously spicy.

Topo Gigio

The gnocchi came with the same sauce, but there were several other we could have tried.

Topo Gigio

We all ordered the Milanese with a side order of salad and chips…all good.

Topo Gigio

Topo Gigio

Topo Gigio

Topo Gigio is a fun place to stop…I will return.

Topo Gigio

Topo Gigio

Str. del’Abetone e del Brennero 25 – 27

Fabbriche di Gallicano

347 08035582

Chestnut time

Chestnuts are ripening on trees all over Bagni di Lucca. I went up to the lovely chestnut forest just outside Montefegatesi hoping to see some autumn colour. The trees are still green, but the beginnings of change can be seen. Best of all some of the trees are laden with chestnuts.

Montefegatesi chestnut forest Montefegatesi chestnut forest

Montefegatesi chestnut forest

Montefegatesi chestnut forest

Autumn is the time for chestnut festivals. I have attended several of these over the years and I find them great fun.

Here are a few coming up soon in Garfagnana.

Cascio has a wonderful chestnut festival. I have been twice. This year it will be held on Sunday 7th October. This one attracts a big audience. Be early if you want to find a place in the car park. Festivities usually begin at about 11.00am.

Castiglione di Garfagnana is a gorgeous hilltop town. The chestnut festival is set for 14th October.

Trassilico will also hold its festival on 14th October. I have been to this one too and enjoyed it immensely.

Lucchio will have its chestnut festival on 21st October. I went last year and had delicious necci.

Castelnuovo’s will be held over 2 days, Saturday 27th and Sunday 28th October.

Lupinaia has a wonderful chestnut festival. I attended several years ago. This year it will be held on Sunday 11th November.

I will be back in a few weeks to see the Montefegatesi trees in their autumn colours.

Grotta del Vento

The Grotta del Vento, wind cave, is a cave in a mountain in Garfagnana, an area in the Apuan Alps in northern Tuscany. It is near the towns of Fornovalasco and Vergemoli. (About 35 minutes from Bagni di Lucca) The cave has 2 entrances, one at 642 metres above sea level and another on the other side of the mountain at 1400 metres.

It is a wind cave because air is able to blow through the cave from one entrance to the other. The direction of the wind depends on the temperature outside the cave. In summer, when the air outside is warmer, the air is drawn through the higher entrance and out of the lower entrance. In winter the reverse happens and the air flows upwards. If the temperature outside is the same as inside there is no wind. The temperature inside the cave stays at around 10.7degrees C all year. A heavy door has now been installed to stop the flow of air, but you can certainly feel it once the door is open.

The cave is open for visitors. There are 3 guided tours available. The first is the one I did. It takes about 1 hour and explores the part of the cave lined with limestone formations. Fascinating stalactites and stalagmites glisten as you walk along the narrow path which takes you deep into the cave.

The entrance.
Grotta del Vento

Grotta del Vento

Grotta del Vento

Just for fun a large skeleton of a bear has been installed near the entrance.

Grotta del Vento

Grotta del Vento

Grotta del Vento

Soon the door is opened and we enter the cave.

The narrow paths are lit and you can see the stalactites and stalagmites and pools of water. There are steps occasionally, but it is not too strenuous and there are hand rails for safety.

Grotta del Vento

Grotta del Vento

Grotta del Vento

You can see some tiny ones beginning to form. It would be necessary to come back in a few hundred years to see much of a difference. Most take about 1000 years to grow 10 centimetres.

Grotta del Vento

At one point the guide turns off the lights so that you can experience total darkness. It is quite an eerie feeling.

The second tour takes 2 hours and a descent is made into an area without limestone formations but interesting forms of erosion on the walls. The third one takes 3 hours in a vertical shaft which is climbed from the bottom to reach a final chamber at the top, followed by a short underground tunnel.

The cave was first discovered in 1989 by children exploring the area. The only one small enough to climb through the entrance was a 4 year old girl. The others opened the entrance a little, but were too frightened to go further than 20 metres into the cave.

The first expedition for research purposes was organised in 1929 by the Florentine Speleogical Grouo of the Italian Alpine Club which stopped at about 60 metres from the entrance by water.

The Bolognese Speleoligical Group got further in 1961 after a prolonged dry spell. Other expeditions followed until 1975 when the explorations extended to 2470 metres and the cave was opened to tourists. Now there are 4 galleries known with at least another 20 branches to be explored.

The guided tours are well organised and the guides are very knowledgeable. There is a shop and a restaurant nearby, so it would be easy to spend several hours here.

See more on the Grotta del Vento website…grottadelvento.com